Question on adding audio equipment

[PLUR13]

Thanks for backing me up cpik. The argument on cap vs battery will last forever. There are advantages to both. I personally just love having a BATCAP. Nevar had a problem with it or had dimming lights, and I am running a true 1000W RMS amp at 2 ohms. But I do completely agree. Rip the whole thing out and start from scratch. Even a cheap $120 deck, and a cheap set of $100 to $150 speakers will sound better than the stock

[TenYearsBeOhBe]

Originally Posted by Cloudydaysbehind

I've never touched an audio system in a car, and I was wondering - can you install an amp and sub on the stock system HU and how do you go about doing it? I'm talking about the non-pioneer 4 speaker system.

It can be done if your trying to avoid swapping HU's...

Assuming you know how to hook up amp/sub, the only difference is that you have to tap into the wires coming out of your back speakers in the trunk. I believe there's actually an open slot on the connectors to instal new wiring that will run straight from those speakers. From there you may want to purchase a line converter from wally world, they're about $20, run the speaker wires into the line converter and then your RCA cables to your amp... It's a pretty simple process, I'm sure I made it sound a lot harder than it really is... There used to be a DIY on it up, but the dude got banned I believe...

[PLUR13]

Originally Posted by TenYearsBeOhBe

Assuming you know how to hook up amp/sub, the only difference is that you have to tap into the wires coming out of your back speakers in the trunk. I believe there's actually an open slot on the connectors to instal new wiring that will run straight from those speakers. From there you may want to purchase a line converter from wally world, they're about $20, run the speaker wires into the line converter and then your RCA cables to your amp... It's a pretty simple process, I'm sure I made it sound a lot harder than it really is... There used to be a DIY on it up, but the dude got banned I believe...

Nope, you explained it pretty well man. The only thing that I would do differently is go to Best Buy or Circuit City to get the line out converter. They're only about $5 more than the ones at Wal-Mart, but you will get much better sound quality. And the ones at BB or CC are adjustable, so you can change the output level of the line out converter.

[TenYearsBeOhBe]

Originally Posted by PLUR13

Nope, you explained it pretty well man. The only thing that I would do differently is go to Best Buy or Circuit City to get the line out converter. They're only about $5 more than the ones at Wal-Mart, but you will get much better sound quality. And the ones at BB or CC are adjustable, so you can change the output level of the line out converter.

Hhmmm... I may have to go check out those different line converters then because I'm having issues with the wal-mart one... it really is a poorly made POS...

[PLUR13]

Originally Posted by TenYearsBeOhBe

Hhmmm... I may have to go check out those different line converters then because I'm having issues with the wal-mart one... it really is a poorly made POS...

Yup, that is why I would say go to Best Buy or Circuit City. We used them all the time when I was working at Best Buy over christmas. Never once had a problem with them either.

[cobalt-z]

thats how my system is hooked up worked out reallywell

[bshep20]

Im hooking mine up the same way, i bought a line out converter off ebay for like 20 bucks or so. I have 2 kicker comp 12's running from a 1600 watt lanzar vibe amp, still debating on the capacitor. I'll probably get one tho, wanna see how the alternator and battery respond without it....

[cobalt-z]

mine did dim a little parked but as far as driving no probs.

[SleepAtSchool]

hey plur13 and cpak quote. These are the first Brand New amplifiers from KICKER in 4 years! It has taken Kicker this long to ensure the new design would make these amps the leaders in there category for Price, Performance, and durability. We have been selling Kicker in our retail stores for over a decade and it is always the favorite choice of our salespeople, installers, and customers! These amps have a lot of the features people have come to expect from Kicker amps like full active protection circuits, and top mounted controls for easy tuning. These are pound for pound the best hi performance amps on the market, and they are brand new for 2006 THE ZX 750.1 amplifier is part of Kicker's all new 'o6 model line up. The 750.1 puts out 750 watts of real power! This is not one of those cheap amps rated in "peak maximum never going to happen power". KICKER amps actually come with a test sheet to show how much power they put out in RMS ratings. Typically RMS ratings are one third of the power a cheap amps are rated at. That means an amp like this would really be 2550 watts mono if rated like those other amps. We have been using KICKER amplifiers in our CUSTOM AUDIO SHOP to perform competition level installations for years. Their looks are as impressive as their sound!

SleepAtSchool added 0 Minutes and 44 Seconds later...

Sorry it took me so long to reply you had me at a lose for words

[PLUR13]

That's fine if it puts out 750 watts RMS, but it's still not going to put out 750 watts RMS to each sub. And if by some chance there is something that does make that happen, then it would be a "cheater amp" and illegal to use in competition so it wouldn't be worth buying it in the first place. SPL comp rules state that an amp cannot put out more power than it is rated at. If it is rated at 750 watts RMS for one channel, and it actually puts out 750 watts RMS to each sub, that would be a total of 1500 watts RMS, so it's then illegal and a pointless amp to own.