Cleaning the Throttle Body - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-13-2010, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Cleaning the Throttle Body

How do you guys go about it? I've got throttle body cleaner and a micro fibre rag to wipe gunk off after i spray it so my engine doesn't eat. I can't quite reach in far enough to get all of it without some type of stick like device though.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-13-2010, 01:52 PM
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Throttle body cleaner is carb cleaner - it won't hurt the engine.

If you want to get real thorough, unbolt the throttle body from the car and clean it on both sides.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-13-2010, 02:11 PM
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Clarification: Throttle body cleaner is closer to brake cleaner than carb cleaner. Carb cleaner is harsher and can affect paint. Brake cleaner dries without leaving residue.

DO NOT CLEAN the throttle body by spraying it down with cleaner -- you can mess up the micro switches and have to replace it. Best to take the TB off the engine -- if you are careful you will not have to replace any seals/gaskets. Only spray enough cleaner into the bore to wet the oily material/residue and then wipe it off with a clean lint-free cloth.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-13-2010, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Throttle body cleaner is carb cleaner - it won't hurt the engine.

If you want to get real thorough, unbolt the throttle body from the car and clean it on both sides.
It's not the cleaner I don't burning, it's the black sludge in the throttle body.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2010, 01:02 PM
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Then just take the throttle body off. It's not hard to get off.

1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z - Wrecked/Sold
2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT - M62 Supercharger, Ported Throttle Body, 42 lb/hr Injectors, Intense 2.9" Pulley, Cobra Heat Exchanger, SS/TC Exhaust, TTR Engine and Trans Mounts, Trifecta Tune, ZZP Header and Downpipe, '08+ FE5 Struts/Shocks, SSC Springs, FE5 Control Arms, SS/SC Front Swaybar, Powell Hardcore Rear Swaybar, 18" MSR 045s, Dunlop ZIIs, Nightshaded Tails/Side Markers, Shorty Antenna, Black Bowties, Black Grilles, Black Headlights, Dual JL 12" w1v2 Subs, A/D/S Front/Rear Speakers, G85 Recaros, Leather Rear Seats, 160 MPH Cluster.
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier - Cold Air Intake, Dual MTX 12" Thunder6000 Subs, Pioneer Speakers, Camaro Front Seats
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-16-2010, 08:10 PM
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Don't be lazy bro it's 4 bolts and a harness. The only way to get the backside is to remove it anyway. Gasket is reusable as stated above.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 10:30 AM
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Just did mine yesterday. Not tough at all. just have to remove the bolts and sensors as stated above. Mine was pretty dirty. Could tell the difference today when driving to work.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
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Just did mine yesterday. Not tough at all. just have to remove the bolts and sensors as stated above. Mine was pretty dirty. Could tell the difference today when driving to work.
Whats was the difference?


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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 09:54 AM
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It just seems to accelerate a little smoother. There was a little "hesitation" before.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-09-2010, 05:20 AM
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had the same issue after cleaning my TB. high idle (1600 rpm's) and had to go to the dealership to get my PCM diagnosed and reprogrammed ($21. I would recommend cleaning the TB with the engine off and simply leaving the TB in place and wiping with a "cleaner" soaked rag. Not sure why the PCM does that or why it cant recalibrate for any changes in the system, but i tried unhooking the battery, and a multitude of other suggestions from online forums without success. hopefully the reflash updated my PCM's ability to relearn in the future. its crazy that simple basic maintenance can cause all that. im now afraid to oil even my door hinges!! : )

---------- Post added at 08:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:16 AM ----------

that was $ 2 1 8. 00
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