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Steering Wheel Judder and Loud Knocking

17K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  dakotarayne 
#1 ·
Hi all.

Just picked up a cobalt today. Have been searching the forum for answers to my issue but nothing ive found really answers my query.
I have a horrid steering wheel shake and loud knocking from the drivers side wheel well when the brakes are applied. I know a warped brake disc can make the steering shake under braking but the fact it makes a loud noise has me concerned.
Actually feels like the caliper is gonna fly off!
I have checked to make sure caliper is actually ok but what else can I check?
Sorry if this is a usual boring q.
 
#2 ·
My guess would be the rotors, but I'm not 100%

I'm just curious, you just bought this today? Did you test drive it? Did you know it had this issue before you bought it? Did you buy it from a dealer?
 
#3 ·
I went and seen it on Saturday, drove it around car park. Then picked it up on sunday from private seller. Was told it had a wobble when braking at speed. It didn't cost me much so prepared for some maintenance. I just needed transport asap! Really like the car.
I might buy a cheap dial gauge to check for run out.
 
#4 ·
You will need to replace your rotors, turning them is pretty much useless cost wise.
 
#5 ·
Hey Craig,


Sorry to hear you are having this concern with your recent purchase. I see you are going to tackle this repair on your own. If you would like, I can check your VIN to verify you do not have a special coverage or recall. Please do not hesitate to reach out via private message.

Erica Tiffany
Chevrolet Customer Care
 
#7 · (Edited)
Hi. So its defo the rotors, and with further driving I have located the noise, its the steering column joint above the foot well. I can reach the joint and can feel play in the coupling, unless there's another joint beyond the bulk head, or maybe its the rack....
So changing rotors is quite easy, changing the column or whatever it is not so much I would think?
I will pm you ccs.
 
#8 ·
i found this part whilst looking online

Amazon.com: Genuine GM 15800140 Steering Shaft Kit: Automotive

it has matching part number to the cobalt intermediate shaft, seems cheap enough.

also found 2 x disc and pad kit too at a very reasonable price.

Even if i do end up replacing non defective parts it'll be cheaper than a garage bill, and, i like getting my hands dirty...
 
#9 ·
For your steering problem is known as brake judder, basically your rotors are warped and/or glazed. If you really wanted to check on it, you would need to perform a lateral run out and it should not be .002" or greater on difference on sides. I would replace the rotors and pads to start off with and ensure when you get them to run a quick sandpaper down to prevent the shipping glaze that's on it.
For the right side sound by the wheel it can be wheel bearings giving out or missing a few. Could also be the pads are skipping the rotor as well. Hope this helps.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I did a pretty thorough write- up click here to view! on changing the rotors, pads, and caliper hardware . Including the part number for the rotor/pad combo I got from Rockauto for a low price. The intermediate shaft is a common problem with these cars since they are not serviceable, but you can tell for sure if you turn the steering wheel all the way to one side and apply the accelerator and the wheel doesnt straighten itself out.

Also, get the wheels balanced - if they are bent, they will make a lot of noise at speed, esp in combination with bad rotors. If you do, try to get the tech to use sticky weights or clip-ons on the outside of the rim. Some joker balanced mine with clip-on weights on the inner side and when the steering wheel is turned there is a loud BANG when the weight hits the lower strut mount.

Good luck, and welcome to "Throw parts at the Cobalt until the noise is gone!"
 
#11 ·
Cheers guys. Well with someone turning the steering wheel from side to side I can feel play in the uni joint just off the rack. Ive ordered rotors pads and an intermediate shaft. Let the fun begin.

I dont get any judder when driving and it stays in a straight line when driving. So wheel balance and alignment should be ok.
 
#12 · (Edited)
The intermediate shaft rattle will always be there, at least it has stayed there for me after installing a new one. Also, remember to hold your steering wheel in place when you change out the intermdiate shaft. I would also make sure all the main front end suspension components, bolts and nuts are tight like they should be, torquing them to spec definitely wouldn't hurt imo.
 
#13 ·
Make sure you completely remove the bolt going through the clamp because it also acts as a key to lock the joint on the rack steering shaft. Also prye the clamp open a bit to break it loose from the rust to shaft.
 
#16 ·
No joint where motor meets the shaft just gears and not a lot of adjusments either. If you have play it might be one of the inner tie rods or both.
 
#19 ·
Just thought Id report back with the issues I had, its now back to the state it was before the new rotors and pads. horrible knocking and shaking under braking.
Done about 6k km. need new rotors every 6k! lol
Vented rotors shouldn't warp that easily should they? they haven't been treated to a hard life, just highway commute to work.
I prefer driving the wifes crappy kia rio now. . .

shot in the dark here- is it a possibility that the rear drums have gone out of shape and not running true therefore causing the pressure from the master brake cylinder to fluctuate up and down as the shoe moves the rear piston in and out due to egg shaped drum and making the front callipers grab irregularly...! I really doubt this but hey I'm bored!
 
#20 ·
I honestly don't know, when I replaced everything it fixed my problem. I replaced hubs, drums, shoes and front brakes now have Brembos with the OEM pads and rotors which are very high quality.
 
#21 ·
I had that same issue when braking, so I assumed it was the rotors. Had them turned, it seemed to "fix" the problem for a while but the problem came back soon after. Recently, I replaced my LCA vertical bushings with the Moog Problem Solvers, and my ball joints as well. So far, the problem is fixed. No more knocking/judder while braking. Bushings may be the problem?
 
#23 ·
I have been having the same issues, but not as bad as others have described. I am going to replace these while I have the car on jacks replacing the wheel bearings. I have also ordered the Moogs. Looking forward to no more rumbling of the bearing, and no more knocking when I turn.
 
#22 ·
Coincidently, I had a lot of play in my steering wheel while breaking recently as well. I was just going to deal with it as my extended warranty ran out a month ago and my budget is crazy tight right now. Well, I took my car in for the recall on the ignition switch and I don't know how or why, but the looseness and play in the steering wheel is definitely not as exaggerated and it all feels much tighter.
 
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