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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-12-2010, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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Dynamat

For those of you that dynamatted your trunks. Do you just put the dynamat on the exposed metal parts?

The trunk is carpeted except for the top (or bottom) of the trunk lid. So I was going to put it on that and then put some behind the license plate and make sure the spare tire stuff is all screwed down tight.



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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-12-2010, 09:41 AM
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i eventually did everything in the trunk, but if you just wanna put one or 2 sheets in the points in the trunk that are bad, you can lay 2 inch strips in the spare tire well, and along the floor boards, and a few on the upper shelf where the rear speakers are, it took me about 10 sheets to do the whole trunk, plus if you really wanna fix the rattling, you have to do the front doors and the roof as well, and of course the trunk lid, the floor of the car is pritty good stock but it can be done too, i didnt do mine and im running 1600 watts rms and over 3000 watts peak, and it doesnt rattle so it should be fine. also it gets placed onto metal and the backside of trim pieces, the carpet doesnt rattle so it doesnt need anything put on

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-12-2010, 09:47 AM
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I dynamatted my trunk, trunk lid, both sides of my rear deck and my doors.

The number one spot you want to dynamat first i would say it the rear deck lid(where the 6x9 speakers are). OMFG the quality of sound was SO much better after i did this, it was amazing. But yeah in the trunk your going to definatly want to hit the wheel wells and the trunk lid first. Then any extra hit any spare metal you can find.

Clean out your trunk first an strip everything out of it so you can work easier. Take the spare and the jack out, the carpet, etc. Oh and definatly hit the trunk lid too. Youll have the remove the little carpet thing which is held n with little push tabs, You just pull them and they come out.

But when you applying the dynamat be sure to CLEAN THE SURFANCE BEFORE YOU PUT IT DOWN!

Take a damp rag and wipe down the area before you put the dynamat down then dry it with a dry rag then let it air dry a couple mins. Youll be sporry if you put it down on a dirty surface.

If you really want to go all out after you clean it and dry it, you prep it with rubbing alcohol, then put the dynamat down, then use a heat gun to stick it. That would be the real way to apply dynamat, but i dont think its entirly necessary, but why wouldnt you want to do it the right way.

hope that helps, any more questions just ask.

2007 Black LT coupe
35% Tint all around - Completly debadged - Side Moldings Removed
KICKER ZX 650 RMS interior amp - KICKER ZX1000 RMS Sub Amp
1 KICKER 12" L7 - All new pioneer interiors - Pioneer Avic Z2 W/ GPS
Rockford 1 Farad capcitor - Trunk, Doors, and Rear deck Dynamated - PS2 with guitar hero
Blue footwell neons - Two Alpine type S Tweeters

Engine mods:
K&N air filter
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2006 TBSS!
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-12-2010, 10:23 AM
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I stripped my trunk and put the Dynamat in and put it under where the speakers are. Next are the front doors when I replace the front speakers(hopefully Friday), then the rear deck where the 6x9s are located.
i have already noticed great improvement in sound quality, with the little bit I did so for.



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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 05:35 PM
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Any pictures of the decklid? My deck rattles like CRAZY even with my 500W MTX 10" (which does pound hard for a 10")...it drives me nuts! And I have a roll of dynamat sitting here (bought it for a decent price for when I'm gonna put my two JL 12s in the car).

1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z - Wrecked/Sold
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier - Wrecked/Donated
2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT - M62 Supercharger, Ported Throttle Body, 42 lb/hr Injectors, Intense 2.9" Pulley, Cobra Heat Exchanger, SS/TC Exhaust, TTR Engine and Trans Mounts, Trifecta Tune, ZZP Header and Downpipe, '08+ FE5 Struts/Shocks, SSC Springs, FE5 Control Arms, SS/SC Front Swaybar, Powell Hardcore Rear Swaybar, 18" MSR 045s, Dunlop ZIIs, Nightshaded Tails/Side Markers, Shorty Antenna, Black Bowties, Black Grilles, Black Headlights, Dual JL 12" w1v2 Subs, A/D/S Front/Rear Speakers, Pioneer 7" Touchscreen, G85 Recaros, Leather Rear Seats, 160 MPH Cluster.
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1981 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - JVC Ribbon Tweeters, SEAS Mids, Pyle Woofers, Kenwood Tape Deck, Zapco Amp/Equilizer, Ceramic-Coated Longtubes, 2.5" Pypes Stainless Exhaust, Bilstein B6 Shocks, GW U/L Control Arms, Hotchkis Springs Sway Bars, DD HDX Cluster
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MP81 View Post
Any pictures of the decklid? My deck rattles like CRAZY even with my 500W MTX 10" (which does pound hard for a 10")...it drives me nuts! And I have a roll of dynamat sitting here (bought it for a decent price for when I'm gonna put my two JL 12s in the car).
ill take pics tomorrow of underneathe the deck, i dont feel like taking apart the carpet stuff above the deck, its a pain in the ass, lol sorry.

2007 Black LT coupe
35% Tint all around - Completly debadged - Side Moldings Removed
KICKER ZX 650 RMS interior amp - KICKER ZX1000 RMS Sub Amp
1 KICKER 12" L7 - All new pioneer interiors - Pioneer Avic Z2 W/ GPS
Rockford 1 Farad capcitor - Trunk, Doors, and Rear deck Dynamated - PS2 with guitar hero
Blue footwell neons - Two Alpine type S Tweeters

Engine mods:
K&N air filter
^^^RIP^^^
2006 TBSS!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 06:43 PM
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No probs. Right now I just want pics of the decklid.

I have my sub facing forward right behind the right rear seat, and I used to put the seat down. I epoxied the center dust cap on my sub because it just to rattle - and it doesn't rattle anymore, it BUZZES, so I gotta silicone it instead of epoxy...deck is rattling right now, and I'm sure it will when I get the extra bump...

1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z - Wrecked/Sold
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier - Wrecked/Donated
2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT - M62 Supercharger, Ported Throttle Body, 42 lb/hr Injectors, Intense 2.9" Pulley, Cobra Heat Exchanger, SS/TC Exhaust, TTR Engine and Trans Mounts, Trifecta Tune, ZZP Header and Downpipe, '08+ FE5 Struts/Shocks, SSC Springs, FE5 Control Arms, SS/SC Front Swaybar, Powell Hardcore Rear Swaybar, 18" MSR 045s, Dunlop ZIIs, Nightshaded Tails/Side Markers, Shorty Antenna, Black Bowties, Black Grilles, Black Headlights, Dual JL 12" w1v2 Subs, A/D/S Front/Rear Speakers, Pioneer 7" Touchscreen, G85 Recaros, Leather Rear Seats, 160 MPH Cluster.
2014 Chevrolet Cruze Diesel - 17" MSR 013s, Black Bowties, Black Tails, UR Rear Lower Bar
1981 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - JVC Ribbon Tweeters, SEAS Mids, Pyle Woofers, Kenwood Tape Deck, Zapco Amp/Equilizer, Ceramic-Coated Longtubes, 2.5" Pypes Stainless Exhaust, Bilstein B6 Shocks, GW U/L Control Arms, Hotchkis Springs Sway Bars, DD HDX Cluster
2017 Chevrolet Volt LT - Black Bowties
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-27-2010, 08:52 PM
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Did you ever get pics?

1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z - Wrecked/Sold
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier - Wrecked/Donated
2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT - M62 Supercharger, Ported Throttle Body, 42 lb/hr Injectors, Intense 2.9" Pulley, Cobra Heat Exchanger, SS/TC Exhaust, TTR Engine and Trans Mounts, Trifecta Tune, ZZP Header and Downpipe, '08+ FE5 Struts/Shocks, SSC Springs, FE5 Control Arms, SS/SC Front Swaybar, Powell Hardcore Rear Swaybar, 18" MSR 045s, Dunlop ZIIs, Nightshaded Tails/Side Markers, Shorty Antenna, Black Bowties, Black Grilles, Black Headlights, Dual JL 12" w1v2 Subs, A/D/S Front/Rear Speakers, Pioneer 7" Touchscreen, G85 Recaros, Leather Rear Seats, 160 MPH Cluster.
2014 Chevrolet Cruze Diesel - 17" MSR 013s, Black Bowties, Black Tails, UR Rear Lower Bar
1981 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - JVC Ribbon Tweeters, SEAS Mids, Pyle Woofers, Kenwood Tape Deck, Zapco Amp/Equilizer, Ceramic-Coated Longtubes, 2.5" Pypes Stainless Exhaust, Bilstein B6 Shocks, GW U/L Control Arms, Hotchkis Springs Sway Bars, DD HDX Cluster
2017 Chevrolet Volt LT - Black Bowties
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