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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Key Fob Battery Replacement

If I replace the battery in my RKE or key fob will I have to have it reprogrammed? 2007 Cobalt
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 05:57 PM
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No , CR2032 is the battery.

---------- Post added at 09:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:23 PM ----------

I repair KeyFOBs as a passtime, don't make too much money doing it either. But here is a neat device I found to be particularly handy to verify each button to see if they work. It's called a RF bug detector and since keyFOBs work at 315MHz this is perfect.

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Last edited by Coby7; 07-25-2012 at 06:02 PM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 05:51 AM
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inside a keyfob, if the soldering holding the battery housing in place came partly unattached, can it be resoldered and work? I went to get mine reprogrammed and they showed me it was broken.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 02:54 PM
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inside a keyfob, if the soldering holding the battery housing in place came partly unattached, can it be resoldered and work? I went to get mine reprogrammed and they showed me it was broken.
Same problem here, except mine came completely unattached and broke in two. The small piece was lost but I resoldered the big piece. No luck on my end.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 03:11 PM
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Yeah if you drop them enough times they will eventually break loose. It is very common for me to open one to find the clip has partially or completely come apart. Clean all surfaces of old solder apply a bit of flux and resolder it in place. It should work flawlessly. The big tab is actually B+ and the 2 small ones are just anchors for the clip.



Next time I repair one I will do a step-by-step and post it on here.

---------- Post added at 07:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:03 PM ----------

This is what the repair should look like once finished. No big blops of solder because more is not better.


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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 04:27 PM
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Yeah if you drop them enough times they will eventually break loose. It is very common for me to open one to find the clip as partially or completely come apart. Clean all surfaces of olsd solder apply a bit of flux and resolder it in place. It should work flawlessly. The big tab is actually B+ and the 2 small ones are just anchors for the clip.



Next time I repair one I will do a step-by-step and post it on here.

---------- Post added at 07:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:03 PM ----------

This is what the repair should look like once finished. No big blops of solder because more is not better.


I'll have to give it another go around. Not the greatest with a soldering iron..
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 04:31 PM
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The main thing is to remove as much of the old oxidized solder from the components to be resoldered and use flux to help the flow.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 06:18 PM
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The main thing is to remove as much of the old oxidized solder from the components to be resoldered and use flux to help the flow.
Whats the best way to do so? Heat it up and scrape it off with tweezers?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 06:31 PM
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I use a solderpolt or wick. You can also heat it and brush it off or blow it off.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 06:51 PM
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Thanks for your help Coby. I didnt think it was worth starting a whole new thread. Didnt mean to hijack!
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