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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
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Gear Shifter?

Hello,

I just recently bought a 2010 Cobalt and I'm new to the forums so if I posted this in the wrong spot please forgive me. The symbols next to the automatic shifter, eg. P R D etc... is stuck on the R. While it still works properly its annoying to not know what gear I'm in. Anyway to fix it?

Also my TPMS was on when I bought it. I attempted to do "tire learn" but I don't have that option. Just Reset Oil and the other standard stuff. Is there a way to turn this off or get it to work? I'm not even sure if the tires have them.

Lastly, my unlock and lock buttons don't always work. My drivers side is almost always responsive, not always, and my passenger side is pretty much not working. Is there a way I can fix this without getting a new one and what would I have to replace if I did get a new one.

Thanks for all your help!
Rick
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 06:26 AM
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Welcome to the forum, Rick!

As a GM Customer Service Representative, I'm not able to provide much insight into do-it-yourself questions. However, if you do have questions about warranties, open recalls, or working with a dealership, I'm available to you! Please contact me either via private message or email (see my signature).

Sarah, GM Customer Service

Have you checked into Chevrolet Owner Center? You can maintain service history, check on warranty or recall information, and more. Visit my.chevrolet.com!
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 08:13 AM
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First of all, welcome! This is a great place with great people. A quick search in the forum threads is usually useful in bringing up common problems. Has the dealer looked into any of these for you yet? If you want to DIY, see below:

The gear shifter: Seem to be a lot of problems with these wearing out, albeit not quite so fast. It sounds like that sliding plastic piece is binding somehow. If you're even a little handy, pop up the trim pieces around the console to expose the shifter assembly. The top trim plate of the shifter assembly is held on by 4 tabs. It takes a little bit of muscle to pop it off, but exposing the inside should give you access to see where your sliding plastic piece is catching.
https://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/ins...-assembly.html

TPMS: There's no way to turn it off. If your sensors aren't working you'll get a dash light until they're replaced. If your dash light is off, I would try doing the relearn.
https://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/ins...procedure.html

Are you referring to your keyfob or the actual unlock switch on the car? One of our mods, Coby, actually repairs those. He's extremely knowledgeable.
https://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/ins...r-key-fob.html

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stratosproject View Post
First of all, welcome! This is a great place with great people. A quick search in the forum threads is usually useful in bringing up common problems. Has the dealer looked into any of these for you yet? If you want to DIY, see below:

The gear shifter: Seem to be a lot of problems with these wearing out, albeit not quite so fast. It sounds like that sliding plastic piece is binding somehow. If you're even a little handy, pop up the trim pieces around the console to expose the shifter assembly. The top trim plate of the shifter assembly is held on by 4 tabs. It takes a little bit of muscle to pop it off, but exposing the inside should give you access to see where your sliding plastic piece is catching.
https://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/ins...-assembly.html

TPMS: There's no way to turn it off. If your sensors aren't working you'll get a dash light until they're replaced. If your dash light is off, I would try doing the relearn.
https://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/ins...procedure.html

Are you referring to your keyfob or the actual unlock switch on the car? One of our mods, Coby, actually repairs those. He's extremely knowledgeable.
https://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/ins...r-key-fob.html
First off, Welcome! Glad you decided to give Yourcobalt a try. Everything here is a great place to start. As Stratos has asked, has there been anything already looked at/diagnosed to date of the issues on your car? Any and all information regarding this will be very helpful for us to help you.

Stratosproject - Thank you for this response! This was a PERFECT response for someone, as it asks for more information, as well as gives information with the references/sources to back it up. I really appreciate this, and I'd like to see more like this from anyone who reads this.

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
Custom 3" DP, 3" Exhaust, GT3076R, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD, Hurst STS, ZZP triple pod, Autometer Cobalt boost/DPIC/WB gauges, Nitto NT05 245/40/18's, H&R Springs, 80:20 Meth Spray
Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 06:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thank You all for your responses! I am going to check out the gear shifter today and see if I can fix it. As far as the TPMS ill check out that link when I get home but my vehicle never displayed tire learn when I tried. Ill try your link later to. And as far as the power locks I mean the actual buttons inside the car. I can manually push/pull the switch at the top fine. Or even use keys. Its just the buttons. Its not a key fob. I ordered one online and it should arrive to day. And then I'll program it. This was a used car. Its in great condition other than these things and looks brand new but I don't think it has a warranty left it was "as is" but I buy a bumper to bumper warranty but it doesn't kick in for 15 more days. Hopefully this all made sense I wrote this from my phone. Thank You all for your help. I'm glad I found this forum.
Rick

---------- Post added at 09:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:05 AM ----------

And no the dealer has not looked into anything. I plan on doing many different things just moneys a little tight since I just bought a car lol
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 06:13 AM
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That happened to me also but it was still under warranty. I had it fixed at the dealer. It seemed to be a pretty quick fix but I didn't watch them do it.



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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leveecius View Post
Stratosproject - Thank you for this response! This was a PERFECT response for someone, as it asks for more information, as well as gives information with the references/sources to back it up. I really appreciate this, and I'd like to see more like this from anyone who reads this.
My goal for the year is to be a better forum member

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shinzon2006 View Post
Thank You all for your responses! I am going to check out the gear shifter today and see if I can fix it. As far as the TPMS ill check out that link when I get home but my vehicle never displayed tire learn when I tried. Ill try your link later to. And as far as the power locks I mean the actual buttons inside the car. I can manually push/pull the switch at the top fine. Or even use keys. Its just the buttons. Its not a key fob. I ordered one online and it should arrive to day. And then I'll program it. This was a used car. Its in great condition other than these things and looks brand new but I don't think it has a warranty left it was "as is" but I buy a bumper to bumper warranty but it doesn't kick in for 15 more days. Hopefully this all made sense I wrote this from my phone. Thank You all for your help. I'm glad I found this forum.
Hey Rick,

Regardless of who your seller was, private party I assume?, the factory warranty should still be in full effect. Be sure to PM your VIN to Sarah and she can tell you. Best to let them cover it unless you're really bored

I just remembered this too. The shifter has that translucent colored red tab that slides over the different gears as you move the lever. That may somehow be stuck/detached. You should see what's going on when you get in there. Be careful when pulling up the plate above the shifter assembly. Those tabs can be a bit brittle. I cracked one when pulling up mine.

You said the TPMS was on when you bought it, right? So you're sure you saw tire pressures listed in the DIC? When you scroll through the DIC now (info button), do you see the LF --- RF ---, etc? If you see that, just follow that how-to. If you don't see that, we'll think on other solutions. You might also want to check your RPO (build) codes. It's a sticker under your spare tire carpet cover (I believe) in the trunk. I think you'd be looking for "UJ6 Tire Pressure Indicator-Low Tire Pressure".

Ah, the actual switch in the car. Is it every door or just a particular one? Easiest initial check is to see if the actual door switches are illuminated when your lights are on. If not, the harness may just be loose or disconnected. Those are super easy to replace if need be. Scrap yards are great for that stuff. If not, we could track it further down the line.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stratosproject View Post
My goal for the year is to be a better forum member
This is good. Keep it up, it will be noticed.

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
Custom 3" DP, 3" Exhaust, GT3076R, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD, Hurst STS, ZZP triple pod, Autometer Cobalt boost/DPIC/WB gauges, Nitto NT05 245/40/18's, H&R Springs, 80:20 Meth Spray
Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


Master ASE Certified Gasoline/Diesel Technician since 2004

Speed Junkies Social Group

Yourcobalt Official Facebook Page!

Syndicate of Tuners Official Page! Up and going again as of 1/11/13

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for your responses. I have been working a lot lately and since you talked about it might being under factory warranty i emailed Sarah, i couldn't PM her because i don't have 10 post yet. :( But the TPMS was on when i got it as in the (!) light, yes it shows the tires as all blank but no matter what i do i can't get "Tire Learn" to appear, only oil reset, then remote start and English and stuff like that. That red tab is EXACTLY what i'm talking about, i haven't messed with it though since i guess it could be under warranty. I'm hoping it is, i even bought an extended warranty, put have to wait 30 days from purchase date, that is bumper to bumper, hopefully that means it would cover it. Also the private dealer only had one key, i think it was repo'd, but no clicker or extra keys so i bought 2 keys and a clicker off ebay for like $30 bucks, just to find out that you can't self program past an 08', is this true? Guess i have to get that done at dealer? Thanks for the replies guys.

---------- Post added at 10:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:30 AM ----------

I'm actually mad because my car wouldn't start for two days over the weekend, found out it was a bad battery AND it was the wrong battery. The dealership would not reimburse me even though i just bought it not even 2 weeks ago. Is there any kind of law to protect me or am i SOL? lol and i live in KY

---------- Post added at 10:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:41 AM ----------

According to the GM site when i typed in my VIN it expired 12/16/12 which is two days after i got it, or 36000 or something like that, it has 64,000 on it now. :(
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 10:23 AM
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Rick, bummer to hear that this is giving you so much trouble! Supposed to be a happy time!

Was it a Chevy dealer or a used car lot? Either way, ask them to replace the battery. Unless your purchase agreement lists the sale as an expressly "as is" sale, you should be covered, to an extent, under an "implied warranty" as to the soundness of the vehicle. Even with "as is" sales, you might be able to argue under the "Deceptive Acts and Practices" law in which they fail (key word: knowingly) to disclose certain information. Bottom line, you could probably win in small claims, but for a $90 battery, is it worth your time? I digress. Just ask and hope for the best!

As for the tires, it's unlikely that all 4 sensors died on an '08 immediately after driving off the lot. You will not see any "options" for the learn just by scrolling in your DIC. Attempt the relearn procedure outlined in the "how to" and report back what happens.

Press the "INFO" and "SET/RESET" buttons at the same time on the DIC for about 1 second. Then press the "INFO" button until the "TIRE LEARN" message displays on the DIC. Press and hold the "SET/RESET" button on the DIC until a double horn chirp sounds, indicating that Learn Mode has been enabled. The Left Front turn signal will also be illuminated.

The other possibility, and I hate to think this way, is that they scammed you. Hypothetically, if they learned the car to sensors that weren't in your tires, it would take a little while for them to disappear from your DIC. Whenever I change over to my winter wheels, my car registers my old tires for about 30 minutes before flashing at me that they're missing. I'm literally on the other side of town lol. The relearn then pairs my winter tires/sensors with the car.

Shifter: pop it open and give it a look! If you can fix it, you'll know. I recall that just being attached to the plastic sliding piece. If you can't repair, expect to pay about $140 for the new shifter unit (easy install). On the plus side, that part seems to fail prematurely anyway causing the key to stick in the ignition. You might consider it preventative maintenance Mine went out on my 08 earlier this year. If you get stuck on your diagnosis, just ask.

To the best of my knowledge, the dealer or someone with a Tech2 will have to program the remote to the car. They would probably charge you an hour of time, so see if you can sneak it in next time you're in for something else

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Last edited by stratosproject; 01-07-2013 at 10:26 AM.
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