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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Wheel Bearings

I started this elsewhere but not getting much feedback but for one person, there must be others that can offer and idea. my cobalt is making noise like it is getting a bad wheel bearing I can't tell what side or front or back. with the geo's you can turn the car and if the noise reduces in a right turn it is the left front left turn it is the right front no change and then go for the back bearings and they are loose. but on my car I jacked it up tried to move the tires top and bottom in and out rocking and they all are tight. I spun them and I can not hear or feel any sign of a problem. so I have a few options I can take them off one at a time and inspect them lot of work, or just start replacing them lot of money. what other test might I try to determine what bearing may be the problem? the car is an auto 2.2 with 106k on it.

another question can the bearings be removed and replaced? that will be cheaper than getting the complete units. anyone did this repair? I have Detroit ball bearing distributor just down the road and I'm sure they can get the bearings for it. thanks
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 05:54 AM
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You have to replace the whole hub. If you can't get your wheels off, horse kick each opposite side of the tire til it comes off. The hub assembly can be found anywhere between 20 and 40 online. Just make sure they are for your transmission

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 05:54 AM
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https://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/ins...-bearings.html
I've got a video on YouTube on how to check for bearing play. Search Jmesl8er
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 05:56 AM
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There is a how-to to replace them on the DIY forum as well. From my understanding the best test is to shake the tire and watch for play. I have 140k and get tech inspected almost every other week in the summer. No one has given me an cause for concern on my bearings (that is in the top 5 of things they check for).

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 05:57 AM
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When you spin the wheel grab your spring, if you feel or hear a grinding or vibration its your bearing. Don't get the cheap hubs, ask me how I know, lol
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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well i jacket up the front and ran the wheel at speed was hard being they are antilock but finally i got them to 100 mph and i could hear the roar but could not determine which wheel. i tried to move the wheels as mentioned here but they are tight yet. and just by turning them by hand gives not results. but i did crawl under and put a stethoscope to the hub area and i could hear the drivers side making noise at both the hub and transmission the passenger side was wuite at both locations. so it may be the hub is sending the noise up the axle to the transmission and i heard that. i will change the left front this weekend and then if i still hear noise it will change the right. heate to spend money on a working part but that is how it goes sometimes. but it sounds like the left one now with the scope. thanks
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-26-2013, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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well I changed out the d/s wheel bearing today. that is the one that was making the noise. I used a stethoscope to determine that was the one because all other test failed to show me for sure. it turned out to be an easy job outside of getting to the part. all the fasteners were rust free and came out easy. for 6 years in Michigan winter that was great. but then I use an electronic rust preventer guess it is doing it's job. thanks for all the help
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-26-2013, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corvairbob View Post
well I changed out the d/s wheel bearing today. that is the one that was making the noise. I used a stethoscope to determine that was the one because all other test failed to show me for sure. it turned out to be an easy job outside of getting to the part. all the fasteners were rust free and came out easy. for 6 years in Michigan winter that was great. but then I use an electronic rust preventer guess it is doing it's job. thanks for all the help
Glad you got it fixed. You from MI?

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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yes i'm from muskegon mi. live about 4 miles from the ocean? or what looks like the ocean. pretty darn big lake.

i have some people tell me they have had tons of troubles with there cobalts. outside of a computer that failed and the wheel bearing i can't say that. it gets 28 mpg's on the roads 50% c/h driving and it drives nice. quiet roomy enough for me and the wife. only issue i had was the front rubber lower suspension arms wearing out. i repalced the 3 times then i sprung for the exspensive ones and they seem to be holding up. but the dog bone sway arm links are just junk. for the problems i get from them i'm thinking of removing them and just not using the sway bar. thanks bp.

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 03:40 PM
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Just replace the links with Moog ones. They are quality and won't go bad fast at all. I recommend them to everyone. If you run your car without the sway bar, you will have a much worse steering feel in the car, and you will have a lot more body roll. Not recommended to run without them.

And Muskegon huh? That's a few hours from me lol. I'm in Battle Creek.

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Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
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Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


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