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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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What I Want for My Cobalt.

i just want to see what you guys think about some of these parts I'm looking at.
especially the cams, pistons, and valve springs. I'm trying to get as much power as i can from my NA 2.2 i don't want to go supercharged and turbo until a lot later.

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 09:13 AM
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Pistons and valve springs do not add power. If you're looking to keep it n/a, replacing your pistons is useless. If you're an 07+, cams aren't worth it either as it will cost you quite a bit of money to get them to work properly and more money to get bolt ons to get the most out of them

---------- Post added at 11:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:10 AM ----------

You also don't need valves

---------- Post added at 11:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:11 AM ----------

Don't get eibach. Go with powell yyz and get a good rear sway bar as that eibach one is trash. Front sway bar is not necessary. Zzp catback is too expensive for what it is

---------- Post added at 11:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:13 AM ----------

Or if you want more of a drop, get some h&r or ssc springs

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BankerBalt View Post
Pistons and valve springs do not add power. If you're looking to keep it n/a, replacing your pistons is useless. If you're an 07+, cams aren't worth it either as it will cost you quite a bit of money to get them to work properly and more money to get bolt ons to get the most out of them
SMH, I'm sad to see you say this. Pistons can/do add power Banker, you know this. They add power, just slightly tho. If you use higher compression you actually get more hp and a little torque. However, the rest of that is true, valve springs are only good for handling more boost or higher rpms to keep from valve float.

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
Custom 3" DP, 3" Exhaust, GT3076R, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD, Hurst STS, ZZP triple pod, Autometer Cobalt boost/DPIC/WB gauges, Nitto NT05 245/40/18's, H&R Springs, 80:20 Meth Spray
Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 10:41 AM
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Compression ratio adds the power, which is dictated by MUCH MORE THAN THE PISTON YOU BUY. That's just part of the puzzle.

So, you're both right.

And also, you're wrong on valvesprings.

Tired, worn springs...or springs not rated for a certain RPM will tend to float. That, will cause more power loss, knock, and whatever else you want to add in there than the piston or compression choice you make.

Oh, the facts.

The Racekar - SOLD!: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIW9XK_WMR4
2007 Cashmere Metallic Chevy Cobalt LT Sedan...totaled 04/11/2011
2010 VR Cobalt 2LT Sedan Debadged, ZZP Intake, Custom 2.5" Exhaust/Borla Pro XS, FE5 Bidnez with KSport Springs.
Previously dumped on BC Xtreme Low's...RIP LOWLYFE :(
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 10:56 AM
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Compression ratio adds power I know. But those that he's looking at are stock compression ;) thus justifying my response

Forged L61 BW S252 Turbocharged Showoff Thread
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 11:19 AM
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All the facts.

Keep on stacking up.

The Racekar - SOLD!: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIW9XK_WMR4
2007 Cashmere Metallic Chevy Cobalt LT Sedan...totaled 04/11/2011
2010 VR Cobalt 2LT Sedan Debadged, ZZP Intake, Custom 2.5" Exhaust/Borla Pro XS, FE5 Bidnez with KSport Springs.
Previously dumped on BC Xtreme Low's...RIP LOWLYFE :(
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 11:38 AM
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i did say valve springs help from valve float

---------- Post added at 02:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:38 PM ----------

don't forget guys, I build race engines for a living lol

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
Custom 3" DP, 3" Exhaust, GT3076R, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD, Hurst STS, ZZP triple pod, Autometer Cobalt boost/DPIC/WB gauges, Nitto NT05 245/40/18's, H&R Springs, 80:20 Meth Spray
Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


Master ASE Certified Gasoline/Diesel Technician since 2004

Speed Junkies Social Group

Yourcobalt Official Facebook Page!

Syndicate of Tuners Official Page! Up and going again as of 1/11/13

Click here to PM me if you have questions or issues!
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 11:49 AM
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banker said they didn't add power.

You agreed with that.

While listing VF as an issue, you went with the not adding power...when in fact they can if the current setup is floating.



I don't build race engines for a living, but I've been tinkering with cars since I was little. It's not rocket science if you've been around it most of your life.

The Racekar - SOLD!: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIW9XK_WMR4
2007 Cashmere Metallic Chevy Cobalt LT Sedan...totaled 04/11/2011
2010 VR Cobalt 2LT Sedan Debadged, ZZP Intake, Custom 2.5" Exhaust/Borla Pro XS, FE5 Bidnez with KSport Springs.
Previously dumped on BC Xtreme Low's...RIP LOWLYFE :(
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluegtp91 View Post
banker said they didn't add power.

You agreed with that.

While listing VF as an issue, you went with the not adding power...when in fact they can if the current setup is floating.



I don't build race engines for a living, but I've been tinkering with cars since I was little. It's not rocket science if you've been around it most of your life.
That statement is completely true, and being around it all the time it's almost second nature to know the technical stuff that is needed when building high HP machines. Not many regular Joe Blows off the street can just sit down and build a 700+whp machine on their own. Most people that do that have done countless research. Building an engine isn't just as simple as tossing stuff in it (tho to people like me who do this every day it is lol). There is a lot of detail that is put into properly building an engine like that.

And yes as that statement about VF is true that you said, that isn't applicable on a NA build unless you're running 8k+ rpms as the springs aren't strong enough to return the valve to the seat fast enough. Most people don't see valve float unless they are revving to almost 10k rpms, OR running more boost on an FI car than the springs are rated for. So for an NA build (which the OP was specifying), unless he is making a rev queen type of motor, valve springs won't add power. Sorry, should have been more specific.

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
Custom 3" DP, 3" Exhaust, GT3076R, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD, Hurst STS, ZZP triple pod, Autometer Cobalt boost/DPIC/WB gauges, Nitto NT05 245/40/18's, H&R Springs, 80:20 Meth Spray
Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


Master ASE Certified Gasoline/Diesel Technician since 2004

Speed Junkies Social Group

Yourcobalt Official Facebook Page!

Syndicate of Tuners Official Page! Up and going again as of 1/11/13

Click here to PM me if you have questions or issues!
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-14-2013, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewhitewolf90 View Post
i just want to see what you guys think about some of these parts I'm looking at.
especially the cams, pistons, and valve springs. I'm trying to get as much power as i can from my NA 2.2 i don't want to go supercharged and turbo until a lot later.

eBay
I have the adapter plate and throttle body your looking for up for sale in the classifieds section for that 2.4 manifold. If your going to stick to NA on your 2.2, you dont need to waste money on internals. The intake manifold, long tube headers, and throttle body are a good choice. If your 2.2 is a LAP and has VVT then Hptuners and a custom tune is also another good investment to make power, as you can gain power by having a competent tuner adjust the VVT and timing accordingly.

The ricer mods I cant speak on, that's your own flavor. I can tell you that you do need a adapter harness kit with a special control module to bypass the CANBUS if you do go with an aftermarket head unit. I can also tell you that ive seen good results from the eibach kit you posted, although there is alot of mixed feelings regarding the longevity of eibach springs. Personally ive never seen anyone have an issue with them first hand. I went with CM springs myself, but the biggest upgrade you can give your suspension is FE5 or FE3 struts/shocks along with your choice of springs. (thats the sport tuned or race tuned suspension setups from factory GM cobalt SS models)

---------- Post added at 03:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:41 PM ----------

If i may also make a recommendation, go with the OTTP long tube headers with the cat, not the ZZP. IMO the OTTP headers are much better quality, i had nothing but issues with my ZZP mid length header setup.
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