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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Trunk Wont Open, Help!

so december 29th 2013 i bought a 07 balt ls, great car i may add, and the guy i bought it off didnt use the trunk, so it wont open with a key, and well ofcourse now i cant fold down the seats to get to open it.... and the button doesnt work (a fuse?) so basically my problem here is, i left my lights on one night, and now my battery is dead, and i need to boost it from the rear, and i cant get it open, any possible way i can get the trunk open from the inside? or can anyone tell me the trunk fuse so i can check it out?

or just any advice would help :D

First Car: 2007 Cobalt LS [SOLD]
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014, 06:12 PM
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Why do you need to boost it from the rear when it has Jump posts in the engine bay?

Also, does the key itself not work, or does the latch not release? Or is it just frozen shut?

As far as the seats, could be the releases are frozen shut on them too. That's a very common thing.

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
Custom 3" DP, 3" Exhaust, GT3076R, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD, Hurst STS, ZZP triple pod, Autometer Cobalt boost/DPIC/WB gauges, Nitto NT05 245/40/18's, H&R Springs, 80:20 Meth Spray
Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leveecius View Post
Why do you need to boost it from the rear when it has Jump posts in the engine bay?

Also, does the key itself not work, or does the latch not release? Or is it just frozen shut?

As far as the seats, could be the releases are frozen shut on them too. That's a very common thing.
well i tried the front today. nothing all i get is a click from like the starter, as it wants to kick over.... its -8 degrees here in canada, i mean thats nothing, so someone suggested the back battery so im not sure thats why im asking..

the key goes in the back , but as i said it wasnt used alot so the wires may be stiff etc?

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014, 06:26 PM
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Well clicking means there is REALLY low power. Put a charger on the boost points for a little bit and then try.

The battery is located in the back by the spare tire yes, that is why it is recommended to go there.

I'd get some lock de-ice and some PB blaster. If the key goes in the back but doesn't turn, there are no cables/wires that control it as the lock cylinder is a part of the trunk latch/release. Try spraying lock de-ice in there and try to turn the key (careful not to break it). If that doesn't work, spray some PB blaster in there and let it sit for about 10-15 minutes and try the key (repeat as many times as necessary).

Sounds to me like because it hasn't been used often it's just froze up (either due to ice or corrosion) and my suggestions will free it up.

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
Custom 3" DP, 3" Exhaust, GT3076R, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD, Hurst STS, ZZP triple pod, Autometer Cobalt boost/DPIC/WB gauges, Nitto NT05 245/40/18's, H&R Springs, 80:20 Meth Spray
Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


Master ASE Certified Gasoline/Diesel Technician since 2004

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leveecius View Post
Well clicking means there is REALLY low power. Put a charger on the boost points for a little bit and then try.

The battery is located in the back by the spare tire yes, that is why it is recommended to go there.

I'd get some lock de-ice and some PB blaster. If the key goes in the back but doesn't turn, there are no cables/wires that control it as the lock cylinder is a part of the trunk latch/release. Try spraying lock de-ice in there and try to turn the key (careful not to break it). If that doesn't work, spray some PB blaster in there and let it sit for about 10-15 minutes and try the key (repeat as many times as necessary).

Sounds to me like because it hasn't been used often it's just froze up (either due to ice or corrosion) and my suggestions will free it up.

\perfect ill have to try that out once i go to the store, hopefully that works.

so boost the back once i get the trunk open, anyway to get it open from the inside without using the button? and does that button use a fuse?

First Car: 2007 Cobalt LS [SOLD]
Current Car: 2009 Cobalt SS Sedan
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014, 06:32 PM
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Yes that button uses a fuse, and besides the seat folding down and using the safety release, not really.

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
Custom 3" DP, 3" Exhaust, GT3076R, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD, Hurst STS, ZZP triple pod, Autometer Cobalt boost/DPIC/WB gauges, Nitto NT05 245/40/18's, H&R Springs, 80:20 Meth Spray
Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


Master ASE Certified Gasoline/Diesel Technician since 2004

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Syndicate of Tuners Official Page! Up and going again as of 1/11/13

Click here to PM me if you have questions or issues!
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leveecius View Post
Yes that button uses a fuse, and besides the seat folding down and using the safety release, not really.
alright, well thats great to know, where can i find this fuse and how could i test it? is it connected to anything else?

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014, 06:52 PM
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If your battery is dead you won't be able to release the trunk electricaly. Fuse is probably good. Do like Livee says, charge your battery using the boost post and one of the screws or nuts on top of the strut tower for ground. Give it 30 minutes then try to open the trunk and start your car. (Open trunk first before killing battery with a try start so you won't be in same predicament).

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 02:42 AM
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Coby you Can open the trunk by applying power to the front jumper post

I shut my shaved trunk lid once after I just removed my battery
So I had no battery but still got the trunk open with the release button
By putting power to the post under the hood
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 03:23 AM
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Correct

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Drives 2016 Sunset Orange Trax LT1 1.4L Turbo auto 3GNCJPSB8GL142716

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