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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Bleeding Brakes The Easy Way?

My 05 LS has a soft brake pedal. I've bled them 3 times myself but still have air in the system leading to a soft pedal. I've been working on my own cars for 30 years so I know I'm doing everything correctly, is there some secret "Cobalt" trick I should know about?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 09:36 AM
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I haven't bled the brakes on my Cobalt (though they desperately need new fluid), but on the Cav, it was pretty simple to do. But I bought speed bleeders, and those worked wonders.

With the Cobalt it should be pretty simple - RR then LR, then RF, then LF.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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I haven't bled the brakes on my Cobalt (though they desperately need new fluid), but on the Cav, it was pretty simple to do. But I bought speed bleeders, and those worked wonders.

With the Cobalt it should be pretty simple - RR then LR, then RF, then LF.
Speed Bleeders? Never heard such a device.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 10:19 AM
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I prefer gravity bleed on non ABS cars, just make sure you follow MP81's sequence and make sure you don't run out of fluid in the reservoir and you should be good.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by savatreatabvr View Post
Speed Bleeders? Never heard such a device.
They replace the bleeder screw, with one that has a check valve in it. So it can't suck air back into the system.


1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z - Wrecked/Sold
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2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT - M62 Supercharger, Ported Throttle Body, 42 lb/hr Injectors, Intense 2.9" Pulley, Cobra Heat Exchanger, SS/TC Exhaust, TTR Engine and Trans Mounts, Trifecta Tune, ZZP Header and Downpipe, '08+ FE5 Struts/Shocks, SSC Springs, FE5 Control Arms, SS/SC Front Swaybar, Powell Hardcore Rear Swaybar, 18" MSR 045s, Dunlop ZIIs, Nightshaded Tails/Side Markers, Shorty Antenna, Black Bowties, Black Grilles, Black Headlights, Dual JL 12" w1v2 Subs, A/D/S Front/Rear Speakers, Pioneer 7" Touchscreen, G85 Recaros, Leather Rear Seats, 160 MPH Cluster.
2014 Chevrolet Cruze Diesel - 17" MSR 013s, Black Bowties, Black Tails, UR Rear Lower Bar
1981 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - JVC Ribbon Tweeters, SEAS Mids, Pyle Woofers, Kenwood Tape Deck, Zapco Amp/Equilizer, Ceramic-Coated Longtubes, 2.5" Pypes Stainless Exhaust, Bilstein B6 Shocks, GW U/L Control Arms, Hotchkis Springs Sway Bars, DD HDX Cluster
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 11:54 AM
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Or you could get a power bleeder which uses a tank full of brake fluid and a bladder that keep pressure on it. Open the bleeder and let fluid come out until it's new and clean. Done!

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Or you could get a power bleeder which uses a tank full of brake fluid and a bladder that keep pressure on it. Open the bleeder and let fluid come out until it's new and clean. Done!
Yeah, that would be ideal but I don't have such devise or can afford such devise. Building one couldn't be that difficult could it?
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 05:23 PM
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You'd really only have to pressurize the master cylinder and open the bleeder. Just make sure it doesn't run empty.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by savatreatabvr View Post
Yeah, that would be ideal but I don't have such devise or can afford such devise. Building one couldn't be that difficult could it?
A friend of mine has one he made out of a fertilizer sprayer.

1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z - Wrecked/Sold
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2014 Chevrolet Cruze Diesel - 17" MSR 013s, Black Bowties, Black Tails, UR Rear Lower Bar
1981 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - JVC Ribbon Tweeters, SEAS Mids, Pyle Woofers, Kenwood Tape Deck, Zapco Amp/Equilizer, Ceramic-Coated Longtubes, 2.5" Pypes Stainless Exhaust, Bilstein B6 Shocks, GW U/L Control Arms, Hotchkis Springs Sway Bars, DD HDX Cluster
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