After many years of inactivity the moderators closed my previous thread so I will continue the story here. If any mod wants to reopen the previous thread and move this there that's fine with me.
The project is not finished nor is it dead and buried. I now smile more than frown as I continue to move forward on a project that has been 13 years in the making. Many crappy things have happened but I will write the whole story in time and post it up on the cars website which I also recently resurrected from the abyss.
Here is an update that I have held of on while I waited for some information from a couple of the companies I am working with. During the time I have been accumulating parts and planning what I can do to keep moving forward. Just a heads up, this is just a final mock up with a dummy block, this is not my LSX motor, more news on that later on.
I have had many one step forward and then wait for new/missing/correct parts. One of the parts that I needed to change was the drysump pump from ARE. This new pump is a 4-stage pump that still uses the LS1 pan that I previously bought from ARE. The pump uses an HTD system (cog style belt) with a collet for tightening on the pump shaft. From there I had an issue getting the ATI Damper hub for the Vortech to line up to the pulley on the drysump pump. ARE didnít have a solution, ATI didnít have a solution and ATI was way to busy to make me a custom hub. I finally managed to get the right hub from another customer of my engine builder, the same guy who built a LS motor with the same supercharger. The only thing I need now is a slightly longer belt for the pulley.
I ordered the alternator with bracket/pulleys/tensioner/bolts that were on the 2013 Camaro because it didnít use a power steering pump, just like my setup. The problem was it wasnít lining up with my water pump. I ended up exchanging the Corvette style water pump for Meziereís electric water pump. When the pump arrived, I was stoked, so after a long day at work I went to install the Meziere pump. Guess what it didnít line up either. I needed to get the 1.75Ē spacers from Meziere so I placed my order. When it arrived back down stairs to do the install and guess what I discovered? Meziere sells me 1.75Ē spacers but they donít ship the longer bolts needed. In fact, they donít even sell the longer bolts period. Off to a hardware store the next day and buy some bolts. Went home and installed the pump and then it was time for the serpentine belt to go on. AND GUESS WHAT FREAKING HAPPENED?
It fit. All of the waiting and more waiting and watching it all line up was a sweet thing.
Next up, installing the custom motor mount to see if the new drysump pump fit, it didnít. While one area was close there was still the issue of a proper fit and having the fittingís all line up. So, I thought letís see how close it was. Here is how close it was.
Here is my slight butchering mod to see what I needed to do. At this point I thought I was looking at getting front/rear engine plates to use as motor mounts.
The surprise came yesterday when the owner of a fabrication shop came to the house to look over the project and he said he can make the mount work with some enhancement to the remaining supports. I admit I liked hearing that.
After I had that all done, I needed to find out the burning question, will the S/C fit in my engine bay because I donít quite have the same space as a 2013 Camaro. So, I mounted this beautyÖ
Keep in mind I am mounting all of these components using minimal bolts, so I donít have to dismantle everything when something doesnít work out. I mean, itís not like things ever go sideways for me, right? Here is the modified motor mount waiting for the engine to be put in place.
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Here was my first sideways issue, the anchor point, for part of the body parts. Good thing that was designed to be moved and it was two small bolts.
Next issue, this looks a bit tight from this angle!
Crap, it looks tight from this angle too.
It looks even worse from this angle as neither the water pump or S/C are clearing.
Lesson learnt that day was the engine canít be dressed before I lower it into the engine bay, so I started to remove the water pump and S/C. The upside is the fabricator is going to modify the front support area so that it is removable to allow the engine to be re & reíed without undressing everything. I am glad I didnít use all the bolts for the install. Another part of the problem is where the engine sits, which is far back as the firewall Lesson was pushed back. Here is the engine now being lower into the engine bay.
The engine is almost in place but now I have a clearance issue with the shaft on the steering rack. Keep in mind that I chose the stock alternator and bracket from the 2013 Camaro to keep everything lined up with the Vortech kit that I bought.
The next step was to mount the S/C so I could see how the charge tubing was going to fit in the space I have. It turns out that it didnít like being at 3 oíclock because the tubing was to close to the wheel and steering was going to be completely compromised, so I had to re-clock the S/C. I canít say I was too thrilled, with taking apart the S/C but, after a call to Vortech and talking to a technician I was ready to do what he told me to do. It turns out that it is really easy to clock this S/C. This picture gives you a close up of the impeller of this S/C and I think it looks like a work of art. There is also a picture of where the tube needs to sit to clear the tire.
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Here is a picture of the clearance between my water pump/S/C and my radiator. Plenty of room for my electric fan(s) but not enough room for my drysump oil tank which will be remotely mounted in the backseat area of my car.
Next is the air to air cooler from Vortech which has big 3Ē outlets. Because of the space between the intercooler and the radiator I am considering another, fan(s) for the intercooler. I will consult with people who have more knowledge than I do.
Next up is a few pictures of some of the supporting components for the HP this car will make. There is the Wilson LS7 intake, the Brodix BR 7 BS 300-B cylinder heads (there is a pic of the valve train specs too) and the Holley 105mm throttle body. On top of the heads I have GM Performance LSX valve covers (the victory red LSX was my doing) which are no longer sold by GM. Looking at the pictures and you can get a good idea of how far back the engine sits. You can also see why I chose the Wilson intake because it fits the space that I have, and it is rated for 1500HP+.
There are also a couple of pictures of the charge piping, but I still need to buy some additional piping to get everything to line up in my engine bay.
The next couple of pictures I took yesterday. I still have to solder the connections. I am going to use the weather pack connections that I scavenged from the original wiring from my car. I am not very experienced doing the soldering so if any of you have good advice/instructions, I am all ears.
I have many other parts that I havenít add to my picture files. I have all of the wiring harnesses needed to complete the Holley Dominator EFI system. I also have nearly 95% of all parts that bolt to the engine. All internal parts are being bought by the engine builder. At this point I have pre-paid Jim $18,000. for building the engine Including all of my time painting his shop at the beginning of the year and this doesnít include all of those external components that I have bought from JEGS. I have had people ask me why I would Ďpre-payí when everyone else ripped me off in the past. The answer is simple, Richmond Racing Engines is a reputable shop and I have seen his work from the engines being built as well as when they are run on the engine dyno. All, of his work is top notch and he has a long reputation for being honest. Jim evens supports street legal racing by paying the top prize at the 604 Street Legal drag racing series. That means a lot to me. Jim has also referred me to Dwain from Kremyr Racing, the fabrication shop that is going to do the many things that I do not have the skills to do. That work includes the engine mount, the steering rack issues, completing the headers the last guy started, mounting the radiator and intercooler, making a new fuel cell to fit in conjunction with the wheelie bars, the parachute mount, the front support modification and the funny cage bars to allow for a 7.5 second certification. We talked about possibly doing the funny cage bars later and his opinion was that if the car can run that time then we do the bars now not later. Dwain also has a body shop that can deal with my front fenders/body kit that needs to be adjusted to make up for changing the wheel base from 103Ē to 104.5Ē which was an issue. I have a certain amount $$ set aside and I will be working my ass off so I will have the rest when itís time to pay. The good/bad news is that Dwain canít start until the beginning of July. Bad news because of the delay, good news because it allows me to do the work that I can perform so that we are (fingers crossed) ready to have this car make it to the race track this year. I have worked long hours this past year and Iím going further into debt to finish this project because I am too stupid/stubborn to quit, you choose which one it is.
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I was just online and I was able to buy both OEM front fenders and a OEM base front bumper facia for $265.00 delivered to my door. These are donor parts that will be cut up to change the openings for the front tires. Because my wheel base was lengthened from 103" to 104.5" this body modification needs to be done to allow the tires to turn properly at the front as well as remove the extra 1.5" gap from behind the tires. The fabricator has a body shop that can do the non-steel welding at the front of the wheels while he will adjust the back part of the fenders. Getting this done was one of the big things on my list and I should have this done in time to put the whole car into a primer coat by the end of May.
---------- Post added at 06:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:01 PM ----------
I was talking with the engine builder yesterday and he made the call to scrap the plans to use the SCAT crank that I have. He's going to use the SCAT in a different motor that's making less HP. He has chosen instead to go with a Callies Compstar XL which has just been released very recently. The LS7 version allows for a longer snout which works better with my Vortech/drysump setup. The Callies crankshaft is also internally counter balanced and is designed for high boost and high rpms. The crankshaft will also be paired with Callies Compstar connecting rods. Here is a link if anyone wants to read up on the crankshaft. Callies Compstar CrankshaftOne of the best things about my talk with Jim from Richmond engines was the commitment to having this project at the race track this summer. He said while it would be later in the summer we will be at the track. The fabricator is a good friend of Jim's so they will co-ordinate both of their parts of the project. Next I will have to find someone locally who does wiring so I can get that finished up. I am not interested in towing my car from shop to shop so I will need someone willing to do the job in my garage on a weekend as that's about all the time it's going to take to button up the wiring/soldering.