Victory_red_SS Goes RWD Resurrected - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Victory_red_SS Goes RWD Resurrected

After many years of inactivity the moderators closed my previous thread so I will continue the story here. If any mod wants to reopen the previous thread and move this there that's fine with me.

The project is not finished nor is it dead and buried. I now smile more than frown as I continue to move forward on a project that has been 13 years in the making. Many crappy things have happened but I will write the whole story in time and post it up on the cars website which I also recently resurrected from the abyss.

Here is an update that I have held of on while I waited for some information from a couple of the companies I am working with. During the time I have been accumulating parts and planning what I can do to keep moving forward. Just a heads up, this is just a final mock up with a dummy block, this is not my LSX motor, more news on that later on.

I have had many one step forward and then wait for new/missing/correct parts. One of the parts that I needed to change was the drysump pump from ARE. This new pump is a 4-stage pump that still uses the LS1 pan that I previously bought from ARE. The pump uses an HTD system (cog style belt) with a collet for tightening on the pump shaft. From there I had an issue getting the ATI Damper hub for the Vortech to line up to the pulley on the drysump pump. ARE didnít have a solution, ATI didnít have a solution and ATI was way to busy to make me a custom hub. I finally managed to get the right hub from another customer of my engine builder, the same guy who built a LS motor with the same supercharger. The only thing I need now is a slightly longer belt for the pulley.
I ordered the alternator with bracket/pulleys/tensioner/bolts that were on the 2013 Camaro because it didnít use a power steering pump, just like my setup. The problem was it wasnít lining up with my water pump. I ended up exchanging the Corvette style water pump for Meziereís electric water pump. When the pump arrived, I was stoked, so after a long day at work I went to install the Meziere pump. Guess what it didnít line up either. I needed to get the 1.75Ē spacers from Meziere so I placed my order. When it arrived back down stairs to do the install and guess what I discovered? Meziere sells me 1.75Ē spacers but they donít ship the longer bolts needed. In fact, they donít even sell the longer bolts period. Off to a hardware store the next day and buy some bolts. Went home and installed the pump and then it was time for the serpentine belt to go on. AND GUESS WHAT FREAKING HAPPENED?
It fit. All of the waiting and more waiting and watching it all line up was a sweet thing.



Next up, installing the custom motor mount to see if the new drysump pump fit, it didnít. While one area was close there was still the issue of a proper fit and having the fittingís all line up. So, I thought letís see how close it was. Here is how close it was.



Here is my slight butchering mod to see what I needed to do. At this point I thought I was looking at getting front/rear engine plates to use as motor mounts.





The surprise came yesterday when the owner of a fabrication shop came to the house to look over the project and he said he can make the mount work with some enhancement to the remaining supports. I admit I liked hearing that.
After I had that all done, I needed to find out the burning question, will the S/C fit in my engine bay because I donít quite have the same space as a 2013 Camaro. So, I mounted this beautyÖ



Keep in mind I am mounting all of these components using minimal bolts, so I donít have to dismantle everything when something doesnít work out. I mean, itís not like things ever go sideways for me, right? Here is the modified motor mount waiting for the engine to be put in place.



---------- Post added at 05:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:56 PM ----------

Here was my first sideways issue, the anchor point, for part of the body parts. Good thing that was designed to be moved and it was two small bolts.



Next issue, this looks a bit tight from this angle!



Crap, it looks tight from this angle too.



It looks even worse from this angle as neither the water pump or S/C are clearing.



Lesson learnt that day was the engine canít be dressed before I lower it into the engine bay, so I started to remove the water pump and S/C. The upside is the fabricator is going to modify the front support area so that it is removable to allow the engine to be re & reíed without undressing everything. I am glad I didnít use all the bolts for the install. Another part of the problem is where the engine sits, which is far back as the firewall Lesson was pushed back. Here is the engine now being lower into the engine bay.





The engine is almost in place but now I have a clearance issue with the shaft on the steering rack. Keep in mind that I chose the stock alternator and bracket from the 2013 Camaro to keep everything lined up with the Vortech kit that I bought.










The next step was to mount the S/C so I could see how the charge tubing was going to fit in the space I have. It turns out that it didnít like being at 3 oíclock because the tubing was to close to the wheel and steering was going to be completely compromised, so I had to re-clock the S/C. I canít say I was too thrilled, with taking apart the S/C but, after a call to Vortech and talking to a technician I was ready to do what he told me to do. It turns out that it is really easy to clock this S/C. This picture gives you a close up of the impeller of this S/C and I think it looks like a work of art. There is also a picture of where the tube needs to sit to clear the tire.







---------- Post added at 06:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:57 PM ----------

Here is a picture of the clearance between my water pump/S/C and my radiator. Plenty of room for my electric fan(s) but not enough room for my drysump oil tank which will be remotely mounted in the backseat area of my car.



Next is the air to air cooler from Vortech which has big 3Ē outlets. Because of the space between the intercooler and the radiator I am considering another, fan(s) for the intercooler. I will consult with people who have more knowledge than I do.







Next up is a few pictures of some of the supporting components for the HP this car will make. There is the Wilson LS7 intake, the Brodix BR 7 BS 300-B cylinder heads (there is a pic of the valve train specs too) and the Holley 105mm throttle body. On top of the heads I have GM Performance LSX valve covers (the victory red LSX was my doing) which are no longer sold by GM. Looking at the pictures and you can get a good idea of how far back the engine sits. You can also see why I chose the Wilson intake because it fits the space that I have, and it is rated for 1500HP+.









There are also a couple of pictures of the charge piping, but I still need to buy some additional piping to get everything to line up in my engine bay.









The next couple of pictures I took yesterday. I still have to solder the connections. I am going to use the weather pack connections that I scavenged from the original wiring from my car. I am not very experienced doing the soldering so if any of you have good advice/instructions, I am all ears.





I have many other parts that I havenít add to my picture files. I have all of the wiring harnesses needed to complete the Holley Dominator EFI system. I also have nearly 95% of all parts that bolt to the engine. All internal parts are being bought by the engine builder. At this point I have pre-paid Jim $18,000. for building the engine Including all of my time painting his shop at the beginning of the year and this doesnít include all of those external components that I have bought from JEGS. I have had people ask me why I would Ďpre-payí when everyone else ripped me off in the past. The answer is simple, Richmond Racing Engines is a reputable shop and I have seen his work from the engines being built as well as when they are run on the engine dyno. All, of his work is top notch and he has a long reputation for being honest. Jim evens supports street legal racing by paying the top prize at the 604 Street Legal drag racing series. That means a lot to me. Jim has also referred me to Dwain from Kremyr Racing, the fabrication shop that is going to do the many things that I do not have the skills to do. That work includes the engine mount, the steering rack issues, completing the headers the last guy started, mounting the radiator and intercooler, making a new fuel cell to fit in conjunction with the wheelie bars, the parachute mount, the front support modification and the funny cage bars to allow for a 7.5 second certification. We talked about possibly doing the funny cage bars later and his opinion was that if the car can run that time then we do the bars now not later. Dwain also has a body shop that can deal with my front fenders/body kit that needs to be adjusted to make up for changing the wheel base from 103Ē to 104.5Ē which was an issue. I have a certain amount $$ set aside and I will be working my ass off so I will have the rest when itís time to pay. The good/bad news is that Dwain canít start until the beginning of July. Bad news because of the delay, good news because it allows me to do the work that I can perform so that we are (fingers crossed) ready to have this car make it to the race track this year. I have worked long hours this past year and Iím going further into debt to finish this project because I am too stupid/stubborn to quit, you choose which one it is.

---------- Post added at 06:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:00 PM ----------

I was just online and I was able to buy both OEM front fenders and a OEM base front bumper facia for $265.00 delivered to my door. These are donor parts that will be cut up to change the openings for the front tires. Because my wheel base was lengthened from 103" to 104.5" this body modification needs to be done to allow the tires to turn properly at the front as well as remove the extra 1.5" gap from behind the tires. The fabricator has a body shop that can do the non-steel welding at the front of the wheels while he will adjust the back part of the fenders. Getting this done was one of the big things on my list and I should have this done in time to put the whole car into a primer coat by the end of May.

---------- Post added at 06:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:01 PM ----------

I was talking with the engine builder yesterday and he made the call to scrap the plans to use the SCAT crank that I have. He's going to use the SCAT in a different motor that's making less HP. He has chosen instead to go with a Callies Compstar XL which has just been released very recently. The LS7 version allows for a longer snout which works better with my Vortech/drysump setup. The Callies crankshaft is also internally counter balanced and is designed for high boost and high rpms. The crankshaft will also be paired with Callies Compstar connecting rods. Here is a link if anyone wants to read up on the crankshaft. Callies Compstar CrankshaftOne of the best things about my talk with Jim from Richmond engines was the commitment to having this project at the race track this summer. He said while it would be later in the summer we will be at the track. The fabricator is a good friend of Jim's so they will co-ordinate both of their parts of the project. Next I will have to find someone locally who does wiring so I can get that finished up. I am not interested in towing my car from shop to shop so I will need someone willing to do the job in my garage on a weekend as that's about all the time it's going to take to button up the wiring/soldering.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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My spare fenders and the front bumper surround have come in.

I have an appointment to drop them off on Monday so that everything can be reworked to move the wheel openings ahead by 1.5" to compensate for the stretched wheel base.

I am hoping they will be ready, after my Hawaiian vacation, at the middle of May. Once these are done I will be doing a full coat of primer and getting the car ready to send to the fabricator.

Considering the price I paid for these parts the quality is sufficient to do what I need as once they are cut up the remaining sections head to the recyclers.

And yes I know that isn't a SS front bumper surround but I only need the section that lines up to the fenders.





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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 07:18 AM
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Man, this is super cool! Please keep us updated with pictures and all!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Plain Jane View Post
Believe me, these cars have a habit of growing on their owners. Your feelings will only strengthen over time...
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 09:04 PM
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Holy cow talk about blast from the past. I remember hearing about this build over 10 years ago and always wonder what happened to the rwd cobalt. Keep us posted
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Update

While it was 2 months later than expected, the car is in primer and after a short haul the car is now at the shop of Kremyr racing . The deposit at Kremyr' wasn't cheap but I keep hearing that he's awesome at doing his job. This shop is the real deal when it comes to building race cars. Check out their website and for the locals, if you want something done right, call Dwain Kremyr. I was recommended to use Kremyr Racing by Jim at Richmond Racing Engines. These two companies work together and have done so for over 3 decades.

When the car is finished at the fabricators everything short of the engine will be completed. The roll cage (including the funny car bars), the aluminum fuel cell, the steering issues with regards to the alternator in the way of the lower steering knuckle, all of the wiring, the placement of the drysump tank, finishing the headers off and reworking the engine motor mount.

This next stage is going to cost $$$ but it needs to be done and my pain needs to finally be finished so the smile can be realized when I do my first smoke show in front of my house.
There is still a little reworking to be done on the front fenders but that is a 15 minute fix accordingly to the body shop.

When the car comes home I will still need to put back in the complete interior or as much as goes into a tubbed/tube chassis car.

That day was a good day.














The next pictures are from a recent visit to Kreymr Racing.

I was expecting when I got to the shop that I was going to be asked for more money first thing. That didn't happen. In fact, I was shown the work that did happen.

I have to say, Kreymr Racing does awesome work. For anyone local Dwain is the man to do your work.

Dwain has finished the roll cage inside the car which includes the funny car bars around my head. Dwain also did the modification to the cage bar under the hood to accommodate the S/C unit.

Dwain also mounted the radiator, air 2 air intercooler and re-clocked the S/C unit to a better position. This allows me to keep everything under the stock hood.
We also talked abut some venting to help the air 2 air dissipate heat. Pictures of that as we move forward.















[URL=http://s186.photobucket.com/user/victory_red_SS/media/RWD%20Cobalt%20Project/charge%20piping%201.jpg.html][/URL

---------- Post added at 02:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:56 PM ----------

These are the most recent pictures taken while I was at Kremyr Racing. Dwain asked me to drop off some parts and while I was there I took some pictures of what they has done in the past week.

They have been working on the steering rack.
They had to change the geometry/alignment to make way for the alternator which I need as a bolting spot for the Vortech S/C. Because I am only running the alternator off of the serpentine belt, Dwain re-positioned the alternator and we will get the different sized belt. All of the extra pulleys/tensioners are then added to my list of parts I need to sell.



If you look at the bare steel parts you will see the modification needed to allow for my drysump to mount where the A/C unit would be.


They have also been working on the charge piping for the S/C'er
The Vortech kit doesn't fit under my hood the same as it does under a stock '13 Camaro SS hood. However, Kremyr made easy work of making the needed piping that the kit didn't provide. Once I have powder coated the new pipe it will look like this kit was designed for this Cobalt SS.








This last picture shows how Dwain decided to provide more venting for the intercooler. Once itís done it will look almost normal. My goal has always been to keep the body as stock as possible. Kremyr Racing also re-clocked the S/C so that everything sits under the stock hood.

---------- Post added at 03:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:58 PM ----------

I have been talking to a race transmission expert and while my 2 speed Powerglide is race prepped with after market components it is still the stock housings. He doesnít believe the stock housing can hold the type of pressure that my project needs for the expected HP level.


After checking in to the various transmission I had talked with another expert. The higher the gear ratio the weaker the transmission. The 180į gear ratio is rated to somewhere between 600-800 HP. That's not enough for me. I did find a Rossler Terminator 6 on RacingJunk.com. This transmission exceeds what my upper limits are and is a top-notch product.

ROSSLER Terminator 6 - Powerglide:
- ROSS-LOCK Pro Tree transbrake
- Oversized billet steel clutch hub
- 10 clutch Promod drum
- Max surface HD band
- Front pump low friction bearing kit
- Sonnax Super Hold Servo
- Billet aluminum dual ring servo
- Modified front pump converter charge system
- Pump gear lube system
- 1.69 Promod straight cut gears - cryo treated option
- Vasco billet output shaft
- REID RACING 2-piece SFI case
- REID RACING SFI GM/Chevy bellhousing
- REID RACING XHD tail housing with roller output bearing
- Rollerized entire case
- Deep finned cast aluminum pan, +2 quarts
- TH400 style oversized bolt-on stator tube
- "NASA" A
BONUSES and upgrades that come with the transmission:
- 1.69 Promod straight cut gears
- Cryogenic gear treatment option
- LOKAR locking dipstick - fluid level set by Rossler
- Temperature sensor bung welded to the oil pan
- Energy Suspension polyurethane transmission mount
- 6AN in/out trans cooler fittings

I have to say that the Reid case on the Rossler transmission is really nice. While it is strong enough to be SF! 4.1 and 30.1 certified it is light enough for me to pickup off the ground. I ordered a Mark Williams yoke and the u-joints today and once I have those they and the transmission go to Kremyr Racing and Dwain measures up the driveshaft length. It is obvious that this transmission as never been used before. With that said I did realize today that it will need to be re-certified sooner than a new one as it was built 09/16. The next part is needed to help me get in and out of the car easier. I was not originally going to use a quick release hub on my steering wheel, but the funny cage bars changed that plan.









Next up for the project is the mounting of the drysump 2 gal US tank which Dwain believes they will manage to mount under the hood to the frame rail.

The project is finally making good headway. I stop in at Richmond Engines this week to see where we are with the motor.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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I have been in touch with the editor of LSX Magazine and he has asked to do a feature story on my project when we are done. I had told him that Holley LS Fest West was something I wanted to attend. He offered to do a full photo shoot if I make it to Vegas this coming April!

I have talked to Kreymr Racing and I have talked to Richmond Racing Engines. They are both on board to make this happen.

I have talked with my wife and she is on board with changing our 2020 vacation plans so we can be in Vegas for the LS Fest West.

Besides the photo shoot there will also be drag racing and I have every intention of participating. I am going there fully tuned and ready for balls to the wall racing.

I have never made a deadline before.

I have never been this close to finishing before.

I have never had these shops working on the project before.

Now the shops also have something riding on me getting to Vegas, their names will be prominently be featured in the feature story covering all most 14 years of the cars life.

I expect updates to be very regular for the next few weeks.

There will be plenty of odds and ends to be done once the car comes home so time for me will pass quickly.

If any of the members want to see the car up close, finished and racing LS Fest West is the place to be in April.

It would be really awesome to be able to race some Corvettes and Camaros while I am there.


A couple of other wrinkles that I must iron out in short order.

Because the car chassis and most RWD components were originally planned out with the intention of using a turbo LSJ we weren't worried about all of the torque at launch. Now that we have the boosted V8 I investigated my drag strip Ford 9" and checked out it's capabilities.

The 35 spline axels are good, the spool is good, but the Strange case and the gears aren't going to work. Not at 1200+ HP. Dwain Kremyr is ordering up a new rear end next week which will have a 4.11 gear ratio and be able to more than meet my needs. He also believes he has a buyer for my strange rear case with 4.30 gears.

The other issue I have is that my MagnaFuel 750 EFI fuel pump is not designed for continuous use which will severely limit any kind of street driving. I am choosing to swap out that unit for a Holley 12-1800-2 which will satisfy both street and dragstrip needs.


One other piece of the puzzle arrived a couple of days ago.

They are supposed to hold way more HP than I am going to throw at them which I'm pleased about.

Diamond piston specs;
Diamond Chevrolet LSX 12į, 4.125 Bore, 4.000 Stroke, 6.125 Rod, 1.15 comp height, -4.8cc, .927 x 2.250 pin



LSX RACE 12įFLAT TOP SERIES



∑ 3D milling on piston crowns for ready to install finish

∑ Inboard forging design with fully machined under crown for maximum strength

∑ Valve pockets designed to work with most aftermarket 12į cylinder heads

∑ Side gas ports for better ring seal

∑ Moly skirt coating for friction loss and skirt wear protection

∑ Top ring down dimension: .280" (1.115cd) .250" (1.053cd)

∑ Ratios figured for .053 head gasket

∑ Premium 1.5mm x 1.5mm x 3.0mm ring package included

∑ Premium H-13 .250W wrist pins included chamfered for round wire locks

∑ Valve pocket depth: 0.220" intake and .162" exhaust

∑ 2618 material for High HP-NOS-Boost applications - rated for 2000HP

∑ 10.7 compression ratio on 72cc combustion chambers







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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 06:19 PM
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I've been following this project for so many years now - so glad to see it is still going!

1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z - Wrecked/Sold
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier - Wrecked/Donated
2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT - M62 Supercharger, Ported Throttle Body, 42 lb/hr Injectors, Intense 2.9" Pulley, Cobra Heat Exchanger, SS/TC Exhaust, TTR Engine and Trans Mounts, Trifecta Tune, ZZP Header and Downpipe, '08+ FE5 Struts/Shocks, SSC Springs, FE5 Control Arms, SS/SC Front Swaybar, Powell Hardcore Rear Swaybar, 18" MSR 045s, Dunlop ZIIs, Nightshaded Tails/Side Markers, Shorty Antenna, Black Bowties, Black Grilles, Black Headlights, Dual JL 12" w1v2 Subs, A/D/S Front/Rear Speakers, Pioneer 7" Touchscreen, G85 Recaros, Leather Rear Seats, 160 MPH Cluster.
2014 Chevrolet Cruze Diesel - 17" MSR 013s, Black Bowties, Black Tails, UR Rear Lower Bar, K&N Intake, Trifecta Tune
1981 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - JVC Ribbon Tweeters, SEAS Mids, Pyle Woofers, Kenwood Tape Deck, Zapco Amp/Equilizer, Ceramic-Coated Longtubes, 2.5" Pypes Stainless Exhaust, Bilstein B6 Shocks, GW U/L Control Arms, Hotchkis Springs Sway Bars, DD HDX Cluster
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