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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-31-2013, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch Replacement Guide

So in the next few page i will be going over how to replace your own clutch.....be forewarned if you cant lift a 100 pounds easily DO NOT attempt this !,as the transmission is 95LBS and im guessing the k member / Front Sub frame is probably 120 LBS.

Ok so moving on ....if you are reading this and plan to use it as guide please take caution as you will have the car jack stands and accidents do happen....im not liable for any self harm inflected by your negligence of safety precautions.

So if your are replacing the clutch i STRONGLY suggest a new slave cylinder,New flywheel/Resurface the old one,New flywheel bolts (OEM is BEST ask ZZP) or ARP Ecotec Flywheel bolts 05-10 Chevy Cobalt part #209-2801 they are torque to yield so they should not be reused and some dot 3 or 4 fluid

During your clutch install, determine if your slave cylinder needs to be shimmed or not. To do so, you need to take two measurements:
Measurement "A" is the distance between the surface of the bellhousing that meets the transmission to the tip of the pressure plate fingers. To get an accurate measurement, the clutch must be torqued properly.
Measurement "B" is the distance between the throwout bearing surface to the transmission surface that meets the bellhousing. To get an accurate measurement, the slave spring must be removed and the bearing must be fully seated at the bottom of it's travel; resting on the slave's base.
Once you've got your two measurements, make sure that measurement "B" is ~1/16" to 1/8" LESS than measurement "A". If you come up with more than 1/8", add an appropriately sized shim between the slave and the transmission in order to get the measurements where they need to be.
If there is no difference between the two measurements, or if "B" is greater than "A", there could be a problem with clutch engagement which could result in premature clutch slip and eventually a total failure.

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Tools
Large Flathead (One thats not your dads favorite as you will be prying with that sucker)
A good quarter drive ratchet (No need for bloody knuckles over using a 10 dollar ratchet set)
21mm Socket
15mm Socket
16mm socket


Bungee cord set
2-4 Jackstands



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0-60....tooloonggg......Someone Wanna tune me =)

Last edited by cobaltune; 06-04-2013 at 11:07 AM.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-01-2013, 06:23 AM
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You might want to add if you change out your flywheel to a performance one, do not use the oem bolts, use ARP's flywheel bolts. Other than that, good start

2009 Cobalt LS XFE U74
Mods: K&N Typhoon Intake, Option Cat-Back Exhaust, Cosmo Short shifter, Maxxim Ahead 17X7's, MPx shorty antenna, FE5 Strut/shocks, Tein S Techs, Moog endlinks, Moog spring seaters, ZZP shorty header, LSJ downpipe, LNF front grille
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-01-2013, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5t3alth View Post
You might want to add if you change out your flywheel to a performance one, do not use the oem bolts, use ARP's flywheel bolts. Other than that, good start
send me the parts number have not seen ones that clear corecctly have heard of people using the ones meant for toyotas but they have to be ground down otherwise you get "CHATTER"...

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-01-2013, 02:59 PM
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ARP Ecotec Flywheel bolts 05-10 Chevy Cobalt part #209-2801.

2009 Cobalt LS XFE U74
Mods: K&N Typhoon Intake, Option Cat-Back Exhaust, Cosmo Short shifter, Maxxim Ahead 17X7's, MPx shorty antenna, FE5 Strut/shocks, Tein S Techs, Moog endlinks, Moog spring seaters, ZZP shorty header, LSJ downpipe, LNF front grille
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