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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-15-2017, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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To Mod Or Not To Mod?

I'm a junior in High School and I want to push my cobalt to around V8 Mustang power. I wasn't too sure whether to mod the car or not because I daily drive the car and I've heard turbos are bad for daily driving.
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-15-2017, 09:58 PM
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So Frosty, so glad you came driving by to shoot us a post here on yourcobalt.
So, tell us what you have. Send us a few images of your joy!
How many miles on it. Tell us what you have done to it.
Then tell us how you plan on spending $1000.00-$5000,00 to $8,000.00 or more on one of your first cars?
We would all like to see your Cobalt!

BC
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-16-2017, 04:45 AM
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"V8 Mustang Power" definitely can vary wildly, depending on what era you're talking about.

That said, the Ecotecs have a lot of power-making potential. And no, a turbo is not bad for daily driving if it's been properly tuned. You also have the option of the M62 supercharger off an SS/SC. It won't put you into the power levels that turbos are capable of (though it is possible with a larger TVS blower) - but those levels will also require you to pull the engine, dismantle it and go with forged rods and pistons.
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1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z - Wrecked/Sold
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier - Wrecked/Donated
2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT - M62 Supercharger, Ported Throttle Body, 42 lb/hr Injectors, Intense 2.9" Pulley, Cobra Heat Exchanger, SS/TC Exhaust, TTR Engine and Trans Mounts, Trifecta Tune, ZZP Header and Downpipe, '08+ FE5 Struts/Shocks, SSC Springs, FE5 Control Arms, SS/SC Front Swaybar, Powell Hardcore Rear Swaybar, 18" MSR 045s, Dunlop ZIIs, Nightshaded Tails/Side Markers, Shorty Antenna, Black Bowties, Black Grilles, Black Headlights, Dual JL 12" w1v2 Subs, A/D/S Front/Rear Speakers, Pioneer 7" Touchscreen, G85 Recaros, Leather Rear Seats, 160 MPH Cluster.
2014 Chevrolet Cruze Diesel - 17" MSR 013s, Black Bowties, UR Rear Lower Bar
1981 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - JVC Ribbon Tweeters, SEAS Mids, Pyle Woofers, Kenwood Tape Deck, Zapco Amp/Equilizer, Ceramic-Coated Longtubes, 2.5" Pypes Stainless Exhaust, Bilstein B6 Shocks, GW U/L Control Arms, Hotchkis Springs Sway Bars, DD HDX Cluster
2017 Chevrolet Volt LT - Black Bowties
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-16-2017, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 1966tbird View Post
So Frosty, so glad you came driving by to shoot us a post here on yourcobalt.
So, tell us what you have. Send us a few images of your joy!
How many miles on it. Tell us what you have done to it.
Then tell us how you plan on spending $1000.00-$5000,00 to $8,000.00 or more on one of your first cars?
We would all like to see your Cobalt!
I'll get a picture later, but it's an 07 LT Sedan (i like the sleeper cars) and Im looking to spend maybe $4,000. It's got almost 140k miles, and I've only put rims on it. The old ones looked absolutely disgusting.

---------- Post added at 09:16 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:14 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by MP81 View Post
"V8 Mustang Power" definitely can vary wildly, depending on what era you're talking about.

That said, the Ecotecs have a lot of power-making potential. And no, a turbo is not bad for daily driving if it's been properly tuned. You also have the option of the M62 supercharger off an SS/SC. It won't put you into the power levels that turbos are capable of (though it is possible with a larger TVS blower) - but those levels will also require you to pull the engine, dismantle it and go with forged rods and pistons.
Around 400-500 horsepower should be enough to beat some stock Mustangs, especially a V6
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-16-2017, 10:37 AM
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You can beat stock V8 Mustangs with far less than that.

Years back, I was riding with a friend of mine who had a 354 whp SS/TC and we beat a fully-bolted-on (everything short of cams or boost), and even though he missed third and leisurely fixed the error, the Mustang still never passed us.

For what it's worth, the current Mustang, with the V6 is probably the fastest V6-powered Mustang you can buy, and they only run low 14s, stock.

On a run where I didn't launch worth shit (on 195/60R15 all-seasons), and with the speed-sapping automatic (it's great down low - but with only four gears, it loses a bit at top end due to being in direct drive and then overdrive), I still ran a 14.1. I'm only around 250 whp (if the torque converter would lock during a run).

In "other situations", I've beat a 3-valve that at least had an exhaust. If it kept going, I probably would have gotten passed, due to the aforementioned gearing, but down low, that didn't happen.

So you probably don't need 4-500 whp...probably...to beat up on a typical stock V8 Mustang, because you have a huge weight advantage. A stock non-SS Cobalt will weigh in around 2800 or less. Mine, with the supercharger, my sub box/amp/subs and a good amount of fuel only weighed 2850 lbs.

1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z - Wrecked/Sold
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier - Wrecked/Donated
2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT - M62 Supercharger, Ported Throttle Body, 42 lb/hr Injectors, Intense 2.9" Pulley, Cobra Heat Exchanger, SS/TC Exhaust, TTR Engine and Trans Mounts, Trifecta Tune, ZZP Header and Downpipe, '08+ FE5 Struts/Shocks, SSC Springs, FE5 Control Arms, SS/SC Front Swaybar, Powell Hardcore Rear Swaybar, 18" MSR 045s, Dunlop ZIIs, Nightshaded Tails/Side Markers, Shorty Antenna, Black Bowties, Black Grilles, Black Headlights, Dual JL 12" w1v2 Subs, A/D/S Front/Rear Speakers, Pioneer 7" Touchscreen, G85 Recaros, Leather Rear Seats, 160 MPH Cluster.
2014 Chevrolet Cruze Diesel - 17" MSR 013s, Black Bowties, UR Rear Lower Bar
1981 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - JVC Ribbon Tweeters, SEAS Mids, Pyle Woofers, Kenwood Tape Deck, Zapco Amp/Equilizer, Ceramic-Coated Longtubes, 2.5" Pypes Stainless Exhaust, Bilstein B6 Shocks, GW U/L Control Arms, Hotchkis Springs Sway Bars, DD HDX Cluster
2017 Chevrolet Volt LT - Black Bowties
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-16-2017, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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So the real question is, should I or should I not mod my car? I still have the rest of High School and College left to go and I don't see myself buying a whole new car to daily drive.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-16-2017, 10:52 AM
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I did my supercharger swap between my freshman and sophomore year of college, and then lowered it a year later.

It's all about funds. If you're able to do all the work, it's that much cheaper.

1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z - Wrecked/Sold
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier - Wrecked/Donated
2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT - M62 Supercharger, Ported Throttle Body, 42 lb/hr Injectors, Intense 2.9" Pulley, Cobra Heat Exchanger, SS/TC Exhaust, TTR Engine and Trans Mounts, Trifecta Tune, ZZP Header and Downpipe, '08+ FE5 Struts/Shocks, SSC Springs, FE5 Control Arms, SS/SC Front Swaybar, Powell Hardcore Rear Swaybar, 18" MSR 045s, Dunlop ZIIs, Nightshaded Tails/Side Markers, Shorty Antenna, Black Bowties, Black Grilles, Black Headlights, Dual JL 12" w1v2 Subs, A/D/S Front/Rear Speakers, Pioneer 7" Touchscreen, G85 Recaros, Leather Rear Seats, 160 MPH Cluster.
2014 Chevrolet Cruze Diesel - 17" MSR 013s, Black Bowties, UR Rear Lower Bar
1981 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - JVC Ribbon Tweeters, SEAS Mids, Pyle Woofers, Kenwood Tape Deck, Zapco Amp/Equilizer, Ceramic-Coated Longtubes, 2.5" Pypes Stainless Exhaust, Bilstein B6 Shocks, GW U/L Control Arms, Hotchkis Springs Sway Bars, DD HDX Cluster
2017 Chevrolet Volt LT - Black Bowties
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-16-2017, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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I'm pretty new to cars and modding but it's pretty easy to learn fast here. The only reason I got into cars was because I needed to buy one, before I could care less. I had school work to do.
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-16-2017, 12:45 PM
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Yes - lots of knowledge here, as well as in the how-tos (though, with the recent Photobucket fiasco, they may not be as helpful as the once were, without images).

The supercharger is certainly an easier/cheaper way to go, and for the most part (unless your @rrob5382 ), it'll keep you below the power limit of your engine and it shouldn't put holes where there shouldn't be holes (i.e. - the side of the block, or the oil pan). Turbos require a little bit more work, but there are plenty of kits out there as well that make the job easier. If your tuner is good, they shouldn't have an issue tuning it properly, either.

1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z - Wrecked/Sold
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier - Wrecked/Donated
2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT - M62 Supercharger, Ported Throttle Body, 42 lb/hr Injectors, Intense 2.9" Pulley, Cobra Heat Exchanger, SS/TC Exhaust, TTR Engine and Trans Mounts, Trifecta Tune, ZZP Header and Downpipe, '08+ FE5 Struts/Shocks, SSC Springs, FE5 Control Arms, SS/SC Front Swaybar, Powell Hardcore Rear Swaybar, 18" MSR 045s, Dunlop ZIIs, Nightshaded Tails/Side Markers, Shorty Antenna, Black Bowties, Black Grilles, Black Headlights, Dual JL 12" w1v2 Subs, A/D/S Front/Rear Speakers, Pioneer 7" Touchscreen, G85 Recaros, Leather Rear Seats, 160 MPH Cluster.
2014 Chevrolet Cruze Diesel - 17" MSR 013s, Black Bowties, UR Rear Lower Bar
1981 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - JVC Ribbon Tweeters, SEAS Mids, Pyle Woofers, Kenwood Tape Deck, Zapco Amp/Equilizer, Ceramic-Coated Longtubes, 2.5" Pypes Stainless Exhaust, Bilstein B6 Shocks, GW U/L Control Arms, Hotchkis Springs Sway Bars, DD HDX Cluster
2017 Chevrolet Volt LT - Black Bowties
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-16-2017, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MP81 View Post
The supercharger is certainly an easier/cheaper way to go, and for the most part (unless your @rrob5382 ), it'll keep you below the power limit of your engine and it shouldn't put holes where there shouldn't be holes (i.e. - the side of the block, or the oil pan).
hey man, she just needed some more airflow haha. got more parts finally coming in in the next week or two to actually start building it again though.. also, not my fault 08 has weaker internals than your 07

---------- Post added at 03:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:52 PM ----------

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Originally Posted by OneFrostyMOFO View Post
I'll get a picture later, but it's an 07 LT Sedan (i like the sleeper cars) and Im looking to spend maybe $4,000. It's got almost 140k miles, and I've only put rims on it. The old ones looked absolutely disgusting.

---------- Post added at 09:16 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:14 AM ----------



Around 400-500 horsepower should be enough to beat some stock Mustangs, especially a V6
if you are looking to keep it under 4k, supercharge it, put some decent exhaust on it, and some suspension mods. suspension alone will make it a completely different car. also, pick up a good set of summer tires for it. if you want to make it to 4-500hp you will spend quite a bit more than 4k because you will need to build the entire engine to be able to handle it. as MP81 said though, you can get right around 250 on the stock engine safely with a supercharger. relatively easy to install as well, bolts right on for the most part.

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Speed isn't everything. Sometimes, you just need a little style and flare in your motoring.
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