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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Need Some Paint Suggestions...

Since I have started to mod the cobalt, I thought I should get some body work done, I got scratches, a few small dents here and there and want a new paint job.

I have a White Balt, I'm thinking about going Slate Metallic, I heard as long as the paint color is not red, it should not be that expensive.

I checked it out and found someone who can get rid of all my small dents and do the paint job for a little over $500, but only if I get the paint, he said 1 gallon should do it all, I wanted to get some suggestions on what brand paint to get, maybe some suggestions on a nice color too.

Thanks all.

Old Car: Chevy Cobalt 2006 LS Sedan base (Automatic)

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 06:23 PM
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That all depends on what colors your into I had a white cobalt and went two tone green and white looks good if u ask me I went thru maaco to get mine done which may of been the worst place considering they messed up my body work and painted the wrong color but they say they will fix it so ill wait and see

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 06:23 PM
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Looks nice, and ricey :P

I like the white honestly, but when it gets a tiny scratch its so easily noticeable, and small amount of dirt is easy to spot, I find myself cleaning it everyday.

I don't want to go so dark, because its hard to get it shiny as streaks are easy to spot, looking for a metallic color, metallic white (if it exists) would be nice. Maybe a blue or a gray, but I'm more interested in the Brand of the paint, whats good?

Old Car: Chevy Cobalt 2006 LS Sedan base (Automatic)

New Car: Chevy Impala 2011 LT Fully Loaded (Automatic)
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 06:34 PM
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You should ask the painter which paint he is used to. You stand a better chance of him not blending it wrong with reducer.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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He did mention a brand, but I forgot what it was, I'm trying to figure that out, I only know this guy through someone else, so it will be awhile before been able to make a contact, just hoping someone will say it and it rings a bell, then I may remember.

I'm seeing some paint as cheap as $120, adding that to the labor would not be bad for a complete paint job, with dent removal also.

Old Car: Chevy Cobalt 2006 LS Sedan base (Automatic)

New Car: Chevy Impala 2011 LT Fully Loaded (Automatic)
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 04:20 AM
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Not to rain on the parade, but you get what you pay for. 2K+ for paint and labor, if done correctly, more if additional prep/body work needs to be done.

At $500, I'd imagine they don't have qualifications or references...

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 06:52 AM
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you are talking to someone who is an old painter, or has been trained by one

the "only expensive if it's red" is an old addage, my father and grandfather owned a body shop since the 60's, and that's what they say all the time, it's not "the rule" any more

you want a metallic white, then go with a pearl white, but the price is going to go up quite a bit

the big expense now is in the pearls/candies, as it also adds a step in the method of painting, and, more material (pearls are shot as a "tri coat" meaning there is a basecoat, midcoat, and clearcoat) this is a 3 stage system, as opposed to the basecoat/clearcoat that is standard, or the single stage that was common up until about 15 years ago

I grew up doing paintjobs, and still do a few a year on the side

you can save ALOT of money if you do all the prepwork and finish work yourself, if you feel confortable doing so, do all the body work ahead of time, spray the entire car with a quality sealer, and then block sand that to make it perfectly smooth. Remove anything you can from the body that is not going to be painted (headlights, markers, taillights, trim) mask off all your glass yourself, alot of the cost of a paintjob is the prep-work, that is also the biggest factor in how the end result comes out, if someone is doing a cheap paintjob, and doing the prep work, they are going to to the bare minimum, and the end result is going to show it, even if it leaves the booth looking good, it will likely not hold up

if that is the route you want to go...and need a little guidance, I'd be happy to volunteer my expertese, I'm sure I can talk you through the prep and finish, but keep in mind, to do it right, you will have HOURS into it

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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The Paint I cannot do myself, I do not have a wind free area nor any equipment. The body work I can manage though, however, I would have to check how much more money I can save by doing this myself, see if its worth it. If it is, I will have to get much guidance as I have never done this before, but I want to save as much money where I can. Also, buying the paint, I want to get the lowest price, but want something decent that will hold up.

Old Car: Chevy Cobalt 2006 LS Sedan base (Automatic)

New Car: Chevy Impala 2011 LT Fully Loaded (Automatic)
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-18-2012, 05:19 PM
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You get what you pay for, but there is a couple tricks to save money...

You WILL want base coat/clear coat, find a decient polyurethane basecoat( I use Kirker all the time) and use a polyurethane clear from DuPont, shirwin williams or, my preference PPG, that way, the clear, which protects the color, gives the depth, shine and duribility, will be a high quality, and like I said, the prep work makes the job, invest your time and care, it will come out great.

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2008 Cobalt LT
SS springs and Stagg struts
Pioneer AVIC-X930BT GPS
Memphis 16-MCH600 "Baby Belle" hybrid amplifier
MB quart Premium 6.5" componant/premium tweeters front
MB quart Premium 5.25 componant/premium tweeters rear
Memphis PR-10" sub in factory sub box

miles and miles of dynamat extreme...
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