How To: Oil Change - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
Maintenance DIY/How-to's for maintenance of your car.

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post #1 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-04-2009, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up How To: Oil Change

Personally I'd recommend changing the oil yourself, the 20 bucks you pay to get it changed you get crappy regular oil with a crappy cheap filter. My oil change costs me ~30 bucks for Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil + a decent filter. Walmart has 5qt jugs of Mobil 1 for ~25 bucks (much cheaper than buying in individual quarts) and then I go to Napa and get a Napa Gold filter for like 6-8 bucks. And here is how to change the oil...

1) Jack up the car a bit to fit the oil catch pan under the car.

2) Open the hood and take out the oil dipstick and take off the cap.



3) Go under the car and open the drain plug with 15mm socket... let the oil drain, while it's draining get the filter and oil ready





4) Unscrew the oil filter cap located on the right side of the intake manifold with 32mm socket (note, can't use a deep socket else it'll get wedged by the manifold, use a normal small socket or a wrench).



5) Take the cap off, the filter will come out with it, replace the filter by taking the old one off and snapping in the new one (it'll click in place).






6) Replace the filter cap back in and tighten it back up (personally I do it by feel and never had problems but you can go ahead and torque it to the factory specs)



7) Go under the car and replace the drain nut (once again I tighten it by feel and never had problems but you can torque it to the factory specs).


Get a funnel (don't have to if you're using quarts but recommended for a 5qt jug so you don't spill it all over your valve cover) place it in the oil fill and hold it with one hand while slowly pouring the oil out of the jug into it with the other.





9) Replace the oil dipstick and oil cap, lower the car and run the engine until operating temperature.





Other Misc Pics.





Note: 2.2/2.4s require 5qts of oil
2.0s require more: 6 -6.5 quarts



Torque specs:

-Oil filter housing cover = 22 N-m / 16 lb ft

-Oil pan drain plug =24 N-m / 18 lb ft




AC Delco oil filter part # = PF457G



PHOTOS COURTESY OF Cobaltxfe09

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Last edited by XFE; 12-12-2009 at 01:03 PM.
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post #2 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-04-2009, 05:56 PM
 
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I also recommend that you dip your finger in some fresh oil from a container, and lube the "O" ring that is on the filter. As well as lubing the gasket on your drain plug.
I also agree 100% that changing the oil yourself not only saves money, but you KNOW that the oil and filter you are replacing is what you asked for. Take your car to some "oil/lube shop" and you never know what they are pumping into your car......or if they even changed the filter (unless you look). Then they charge you $50+ to do it.

Last edited by TheDarkened; 12-04-2009 at 05:59 PM.
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post #3 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-04-2009, 06:02 PM
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2.0's LSJ's use 6-6.5 quarts. Mine takes 6, but I have heard other say theirs takes a tad more. The process is pretty much the same except alittle more work with that SC in the way for the LSJ guys. One easy thing to do to get to the filter cap and such on the LSj is to unscrew the coolant peice up front and push that down alittle, the two screws for the bracket that connects to the SC are 10mm.

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post #4 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-04-2009, 06:25 PM
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haha when i worked for a quick lube shop... to save time we NEVER changed that O- ring...funny enough... i did it a chevy one time cuz i was in a chring.. ad the car came back a week later with an oil leak....



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post #5 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-04-2009, 06:26 PM
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Hey guys just an FYI. I am going to change my oil Next week so i will take some detailed pics to add to original post. As well as some tech specs.




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post #6 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-04-2009, 06:34 PM
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pics are good, I just changed my SS's oil yesterday, would of been a great time for me to do a write up, there is a how to video over on localcobalt though and youtube for the SS. My biggest hate when doing an oil change... the wait for the oil to drain lol

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post #7 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-04-2009, 10:44 PM
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I'm surprised we didn't have one of these yet
Good work Ramphex. It'd be a good idea to list torque specs for those of us with OCD though.

If you stiff me on the tip, I'll leave an = on your driveway to get even.

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post #8 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-04-2009, 10:51 PM
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I just put the bolt in the pan, turn till tight, put the wrench on and knock it a couple of time hard with my palm. Than spend the next 3 days checking under the car for a leak and checking the level on the dip stick hahahaha, I get too worried about that crap

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post #9 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-04-2009, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beamer View Post
I just put the bolt in the pan, turn till tight, put the wrench on and knock it a couple of time hard with my palm. Than spend the next 3 days checking under the car for a leak and checking the level on the dip stick hahahaha, I get too worried about that crap
Looks like I might do the same if I can't find the numbers by tomorrow

If you stiff me on the tip, I'll leave an = on your driveway to get even.

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Last edited by Hyphydrivah; 12-04-2009 at 10:59 PM.
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post #10 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-04-2009, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyphydrivah View Post
I'm surprised we didn't have one of these yet
Good work Ramphex. It'd be a good idea to list torque specs for those of us with OCD though.

i working on finding these for us don't worry




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