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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Losing oil when driving

I'm losing oil when I drive my 2006 Chevy cobalt but it doesn't leak when parked
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Any one know where I should look first to fix this I love my cobalt and hate to get another car
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 08:48 AM
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My only guess could be the valve cover. Try to clean the engine real good to find leaks easier. Otherwise you might be losing oil internally. Doing a compression check on your cylinders may give you a better idea if you have worn rings or other issues.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 05:35 PM
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Too many guesses.
Like asking how high is up?

It is the same as telling your mechanic your car is making a funny noise.
Your mechanic will tell your car to straighten up, drive correctly and stop joking around. Then charge you $100 for the service.

Post a little more info if you want better answers.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-06-2017, 09:10 PM
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First let me say that Sea-foam, solvent through the intake or vacuum lines and oil catch cans are like treating a gushing gunshot wound with a Band-Aid.
Totally useless.

If its a 2.2 or 2.4 check the tailpipe for black soot. If you find it that means you are burning oil. 2.2 and 2.4 engines are known for burning oil usually because of..

1) PVC orifice is plugged.

This causes oil vapor to enter the intake through the breather hose. There is no traditional PCV valve as the 2.2 & 2.4 are vented internally through a port in the head and a small hole venting into the intake. The fresh air is drawn into the engine through the valve cover. First remove the valve cover and intake. Make sure the orifice in the intake is not plugged also using some mechanics wire, lacquer thinner/brake cleaner and compressed air clean the passage in the head be careful not to lodge debris into the head. If you cant get air to flow through the head pull the head it will need to be professionally cleaned.
Oil and sludge build up in the valve cover baffle can be solved by soaking the valve cover in a parts tank or replacing the valve cover if its really clogged up.

2) Worn valve seals worn / damaged valve guides, cracked warped head, or blown head gasket.
Although seals can be done without taking the head to a machine shop its not really a DIY job because it involves removing the cams, valve springs just to change the seals. as long as you have a torque wench, a CLEAN,DRY, comfortable work area and you are a stickler for details seals are time consuming but doable. For the record I really stress a CLEAN AND DRY work area especially for assembly.

The valve guides?
This is more precise and requires a removal jig. installation of guides can be tricky too long will affect the heads ability to flow, you can crack a head, and to do the job correctly it usually involves a valve job. If its the vale guides send the head out to a engine machine shop. Unless you have a custom jewel polish the 2.2 2.4 heads are common enough they might just be able to swap heads. ready to bolt down with some kind of warrantee usually between 300 and 400 bucks.
cracked heads machine shop might be able to repair them or they might be junk.

Piston rings.
Major surgery you are basically rebuilding the engine. If the car is a keeper this job best done with the engine removed as its a good idea to have the block thoroughly cleaned, checked and decked, if necessary bored or at least, honed and have the pistons rings fitted by the engine machine shop. your looking at 150+ a hole for the cleaning check and hone.

If the car is on its last leg and you want to take your chances you can just clean the pistons change out the rings and new headset. This is the halfassed way it might work it might grenade the instant you turn the key.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-07-2017, 06:00 AM
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Seafoam works plenty fine through a vacuum line. Cleans off a lot of build up, and makes for one entertaining as hell smokeshow. I've done it on multiple vehicles with great results every time. It's not a miracle fluid, it's just a good way to clean what cannot usually be cleaned.

Also it may very well be leaking it while driving, not burning it.

@lonewolf74m , we need to know where the oil leak looks like it is coming from.

I've been chasing an oil leak that only seems to happen shortly after I park, and then stop once the engine has cooled down, for years now. It's definitely on the front of my engine, above the front trans mount, but I cannot see it, as the M62 is in the way. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the oil cap, but I cannot tell for sure.

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Last edited by MP81; 08-07-2017 at 10:45 AM.
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