DIY: How To Install Chevy Cobalt Lowering Springs - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2009, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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DIY: How To Install Chevy Cobalt Lowering Springs

I installed a set of Ksport lowering springs that i purchased from NeverEnoughAuto. Everything went relatively smoothly, and it only took a total of 3 hours!!!!

Materials:
2 jack stands
1 floor jack
1/2 in. air impact wrench
socket set
torque wrench
flat head screw driver
strut spring commpressor kit from Autozone
#45 TORX bit
offset STRUT SOCKET or 21mm O2 sensor socket


The Haynes repair manual called for a offset strut socket for the removal of the strut bolt....i was luckely able to work around this by use of the 21mm, O2 sensor socket because the sensor socket has a cut-out that enabled me to insert the TORX bit and stop the strut from turning......to save time and frustration, be sure to buy or borrow the offset socket before u remove the whole flippin front end assemblies.


First of all, chock the rear wheels, set the E-Brake, and loosen the lug nuts on the front tires. Jack up the front end and rest on JACK STANDS ( for your safety use jack stands)

Remove front tires.

Remove the three strut bolts located under the hood.

Now remove the one Staballizer Bar bolt that is attached to the strut above the rotors.

Mark locating lines on the strut bar "knuckle assembly" to aid reintallation(pic Below)


Remove the two bolts holding the strut to the front wheel assembly. Pull the strut assembly out.

Support the rotor/axel to relieve the stress on the brake lines.

Now use the spring compressor to compress old springs until they wiggle in the strut assembly


THE HARD PART is loosening the strut assembly nut on top of strut. Use the #45 TORX bit to stop strut from rotating, use the offset strut wrench(or in my case the 21mm O2 sensor socket) to loosen the nut.

Remove old spring, compress new spring. Reassemble strut.


Reinstall strut assembly, torque bolts to manufacturer's recommended levels.




The Rear end is WAY easier!

chock the front wheels, loosen the tire lug nuts, jack up the rear end and support with jack stands. Remove rear wheels.

Remove brake line bracket retainer clip on trailing arm to free up brake line.(see pic)

With a support jack under the rear axle remove the one shock absorber bolt


slowly lower axle to release spring tension.......remove old spring



The old spring has a top and bottom cap that u must use on new springs, make note which is top/bottom



With the top and bottom caps on the new springs, reinstall them.


Lift the axle up and reattach the shock absorber bolt.

Re-attach the brake line retainer clip

Re-attach wheels

Enjoy!




'06 cobalt LS, 18s, window tint, 2 Alpine 12" subs, 800 watt Pioneer amp,
Pioneer 6x9's, Alpine 6.5" and tweeters, shorty antenna,
black and cobalt interior repaint, black and cobalt neoprene seat covers

Last edited by bkleindel; 01-31-2009 at 04:59 PM.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2009, 05:36 PM
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how is the ride? did you get the car alighned afterwards?
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-31-2009, 09:50 PM
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I guess what I used in place of the offset socket was like yours, a socket with a bolt like end, (yeah just looked it up, same as yours only with out the cutout on the side) so I used a box wrench to hold it and put the torx in the top. Nice drop, car looks great!



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Last edited by Snake890217; 01-31-2009 at 09:55 PM.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 03:35 AM
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actually if you loosen the top strut nut before you jack up the car,
that nut will come off much easier !
No need to hold anything from turning.

Just a thought, and it does work nice.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 05:25 AM
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Nice wright up. looks good!



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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherry GT View Post
actually if you loosen the top strut nut before you jack up the car,
that nut will come off much easier !
No need to hold anything from turning.

Just a thought, and it does work nice.
Thats a great idea!!!!! it would have saved me an hour or so!!!!


1)The ride is bumpier......no rear end bounce when i drive over speed bumps

2)Im getting an alignment tomorrow, u can see the rear wheels are off a little

'06 cobalt LS, 18s, window tint, 2 Alpine 12" subs, 800 watt Pioneer amp,
Pioneer 6x9's, Alpine 6.5" and tweeters, shorty antenna,
black and cobalt interior repaint, black and cobalt neoprene seat covers
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 12:37 PM
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Good wright up bro. looks awsome!

2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT Sedan
Laser Blue Metallic
Car Mods:

*Angel Eye Projector Headlights
(Black Housing).
*K&N Cold Air Intake.
*Tsudo N1 Cat-Back Exhaust.
*20% Window Tint.
*Powder Coated Stock Rims Black.
*De-badged/trimmed.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkleindel View Post
so far your the only one who has nice rims LOL

Last edited by OBZ; 03-04-2009 at 05:59 PM. Reason: Do NOT quote the entire post to comment on the rims!
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-04-2009, 05:40 PM
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HAhaha nicee ^^^



Mod's So Far: AEM CAI, C.A. Header, 2.50 Magnaflow Catback Exhaust , ZZP Catless Downpipe, DC Carbon Strut Bar, Dropped on Progress Springs. Tinted, Fully Debadged, Custom front SS bumper,2 Audiobahn 10" w/JL amp, Lower Billett Grille, Sengen 18 x 8 rims wrapped in Capitol Sport UHP 225/40/18.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-05-2009, 07:07 AM
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Nice 'How to'. Thank you for your time and effort!

2007 LT 2.2
MODS:
GMPP Air Intake * GMPP Extrude Honed Manifold * GMPP Cat-Back Performance Exhaust * Vibrant D/P * Jet Stage 2 Module
MOBIL 1 Synthetic Oil * DC Sport Strut Tower Brace * Color Matched Mirror Covers * EuroAntenna * 30-15 3M FX Tinting
Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position RE960AS on Premium Wheels

Future MODS:
2.4 Intake Manifold Conversion * 2.4 TB * TUNE
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