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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Question DRL ''D''aytime ''R''unning ''L''ights

What voltage value is applied to which filament?

I'm popping DRL 10amp fuses lately and wondering if I should up the fuse ampereage to 15 amp or change my bulbs. I will measure current flow tomorrow during daytime because you can't check it at night unless you apply light on sensor on top of dash. Fuse holds for a couple of days then next thing you know no DRL. I might figure it out by myself but always nice to have a second opinion.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 07:07 PM
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Just pull the fuse and call it a day!
you running HIDs?

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 07:08 PM
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not to sound like a smartass, but upping the fuse isnt going to fix anything. u have a short somewhere if you are drawing enough current to blow the fuse.
any idea what else is on that circuit? does it pop after other components of the circuit are switched on or off?
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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No HID's... And don't have to pull the fuse it's already open.....lol

Well I changed bulbs for JP Thunder and think they might draw a little more current than OEM. They sure spit out a lot of light. Just wondering if wires and circuit can handle a bit more current. If not I'll get some silverstars or something.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 07:19 PM
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i see, didnt know they werent the stock bulbs. i guess they might pull more, and i would hope the circuit could take it. but gm isnt know for thier electrical prowess. lol
switching the bulbs and waiting might be the least painful way to find out where you stand.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Just did some quick calculation and these would draw almost 4 more amps per pair on low beam at full 14.3 volts, but I don't know what running voltage is. I know it is lower than 12 because when night lights come on they get brighter.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 07:37 PM
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you would hope gm would account for at least four amps of fudge factor in the circuit protection. but idk
electrictiy has always confused me. lol
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Low beam is 80Watts instead of 55Watts if DRL uses low beam. I will check tomorrow what each individual filament is fused at.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-18-2011, 06:06 AM
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Coby, the stock bulbs and also the Silverstar Ultra's that I run are 55/65 watt. It sounds like the bulbs you have draw too much.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-18-2011, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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OKay sorted everything out today.
1 DRL uses low beam filament.
2 At reduced battery voltage. So 9-10Volts @7.56amps with engine off.
3 Closer to 10Volts @8.36 amps with engine running. If you do the math and it doesn't add up it is because filament resistance increases with heat so the more current flows through the hotter it gets and the more resistive the filament gets.
4 Well 8.36 amps running through a 10 amp fuse is cutting it close, engineering practice is to never exceed 80% of rated value (I'm at 83.6%).
5 Both low and high beams are fused at 10 amp for each filament. So I'm expecting to blow high beam fuses soon. Low beam are in specified ampereage limits.
6 Now I checked wiring size and this guage is good to 25 amps at +40C or (104F)
7 So if I blow these again I will up the fuse to 15 amps from 10.
8 Only piece of electronic that might not hold-up is the relays and I'll replace them when they go.
These bulbs don't draw too much they just draw more.

Last edited by Coby7; 07-24-2013 at 06:15 AM.
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