2009 Cobalt Oil Pan Replacement - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-07-2011, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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2009 Cobalt Oil Pan Replacement

We (I) scraped a big landscaping rock on the highway over the weekend in my girlfriends car and punched a drain plug sized hole into the oil pan. Does anybody on here have any experience with changing the pan on one of these things and if so, could you give me some advice? I drive an older Jeep and am used to having plenty of space to get to things, but it looks a little tight in/under the motor. Thanks!
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-07-2011, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Another question. Is there any sort of epoxy that could work for a short-term solution just to get her back on the road? Anything but JB-Weld that is. Thanks.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-07-2011, 07:45 PM
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I havnt done it on this car, but it should be pretty straight forward. No oil filter housing even to get in the way. You shouldnt need a ton of room to drop the pan. Main concern should be using the right gasket, or sealant going back together and torque value and sequence. Unless you did other damage. I wouldnt even mess with trying to plug it temporarily. You would probably have to pull the pan and clean it to get anything to take. Post up how it goes.

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-07-2011, 09:10 PM
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I cracked mine also a few years ago and i never replaced it. Here's what i did; first i let it dry and used silicone to seal it (emergency style because i was camping). Then when i had time i peeled the sicicone off let it dry again and then used jb weld, this held strong for two-three years until it started a slow leak. This past summer i scraped the weld off, let it dry, buffed it, then i used quick steel.
I know this is not proper but it works and is cheap
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-07-2011, 11:44 PM
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I have done one on a friends cobalt . you have to bust the front passengers side lugs loose ,jack the car up ,put it on stands ,block the rear wheels, pull the E brake, take the
passenger side wheel off ,take the passenger inside splash gaurd out ( held in by a few two part plastic retainers and a few hex bolts ) to remove the plastic retainers holding the splash gaurd in -take a pair of dikes or wire cutters and close them half way and use the end to grab the inside plastic piece of the retainer plug and pull it out , then the retainer will pull free .the splash gaurd wraps under the front bumper (theres a few small hex bolts under there holding it fast. 7mm I think. you must also remove the little plastic splash guard covering your drive belt. next remove your belt by pulling back your tensior arm it is spring loaded. put a 3/8 rachet in the square hole on the tensior arm to pull it back to take the tension off the belt and then take your belt off (it is tight in there so have fun, a cheater bar will help alot ) you might wonder why you have to remove the belt . well its because the ac compressor is bolted to the oil pan . you will see what i mean when u get under there. if you dont remove the belt then the pan will not want to go back up in because the belt is pulling the ac compressor into the pan . after you remove the belt get under the car and drain the oil if you have any left by now . next start busting the pan bolts loose there is pretty many and some are hiding in between the casting journals . you really have to get in there with a light and look all around . i think there are bunch of 13 mm bolts . 1 nut 13mm . and four or six big daddy blots that go sideways through the pan towards the driverside of the engine. after you get em all out . tap it with a hammer , if it dont start dropping you missed bolts somewhere. next before you drop the pan completely you will have to pop the hood . remove the oil fill cap, rip off the plastic motor cover, remove intake tube hose clamp, remove plstic intake , look for dip stick tube, follow that down to where it bolts to the intake manifold , remove that 1 nut 10mm i think , remove the wire harness that is clipped to the dipstick tube then lower the pan with the tube, hint:the harness clip is clipped into the dip stick but you can slide the harness clip side to side and remove it from the clip itself . you will understand what I mean after you fight it for a half hour then you really get in and look at how its attached .if u get a new pan it prolly wont come with a dipstick. so dont break yours . best bet go to a salvage yard for a pan. I got one for my friend for 30 bucks rather than 187 the stealership wanted. to get the dipstick out get a rag and wrap it around the end of the stick where it meets the pan and grip it with a pair if channel locks and get it turning side to side while you pull up on it . it will pop out but b careful . lube helps it come out ( check the o-rings out on the end of the dipstick tube . replace them if they are bad. clean the mating surface of the pan and the block with brake parts cleaner and a rag . then get some Black high heat RTV sealant , lay a thick bead around the pan and each bolt hole ,put your dipstick tube in your pan , use a fitting wrech around the end of the dip stick tube and tap it in if need be, guide it up in , bolt her up , find out torque specs , I use my arm , reconnect all harness's and hardware ,intake , splash guard belt ect. and fill er up with 5 quarts of oil if you have a 2.2 that is .Then your bleeding and cursing and have a nice bump on your head but your pan is good for pennies on the dollar ..

Last edited by 2005/LS; 11-07-2011 at 11:55 PM.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-08-2011, 07:07 AM
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^Holy cow. I'm glad the quick steel worked for me
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-08-2011, 11:26 AM
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Not that bad of a job, you just need to take your time. Don't try to finish before you start. Just a whole bunch of bolts and nuts. Get a pan from salvage yard, clean it up and bolt it on.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-08-2011, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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@2005, THANK YOU! I'm starting removal now. Found the pan at a local dealer for $75 so if I can get it off I should be done today. I just finished pulling all the splash shields and what not off so I'm going to go out and try to remove the belt. I will say, I like working on my 1993 Wrangler much, much more. Here's some photos of what the crack looked like:



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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-08-2011, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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2.5 hours from start I've got the pan out. I missed a couple of bolts so I was sitting there scratching my head and drinking a couple of beers for a little bit. I'm off to the dealership to get the new pan now. Thanks again 2005/LS.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-08-2011, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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1.5 hours after getting home I am done. The parts guy quoted me for the transmission oil pan instead of the engine pan so they wanted $185. They ended up going $150 for it due to the miscommunication. The hardest bolt for the whole thing was the one that holds the dipstick to the lower intake manifold. There is absolutely no room to get to it. One more time, thanks for all the help.
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