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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-23-2012, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Check Engine and Track Light Comes on

Check engine light and traction light are both giving me fits. Check engine is showing misfire on #2 cylinder. The traction light would come on sometimes when idling and/or backing up. Took it and had it checked and they seemed to do a thorough check and said the #2 and #3 ignition coils were bad. Couldn't afford the $128 each for the coils they wanted to charge so went to AutoZone. A buddy offered to change them for me and since he had tools and I didn't, I accepted his offer. No codes were showing when we finished but after driving several miles and several starts, the check engine light came back on. I got to thinking and now think he might have changed the wrong coils. He was told at the parts place that they were 4 3 2 1 looking right to left. He changed the two middle coils. I have not been able to find a manual on the internet to tell me the order. Can someone please help?

I might add that my mpg went up immediately, so I am rather confused.

Anyone????
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-23-2012, 07:07 PM
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If your MPG went up after the repair, its because you were actually burning gasoline instead of throwing it down the drain, literally.

I would check the spark plugs your using, stay away from those Bosch ones, they will burn up your coils, you can get the cheapest crap you can find an be better than Bosch, I would recommend the ACDelco ones.

If your coils were installed wrong, you would know about it, there probably fine.

What is the new code?

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-23-2012, 07:37 PM
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Cylinder 1 is closest to timing chain. Don't you find it odd that two coils would let go at the same time? Might have jumped the gun a bit. First thing you should have done, and I assume your vehicle is 07 and up, is move coil two to position one a known good coil and coil 3 to position 4, reset codes and go try it out to see if code follows coil. If you still have 2,3 misfire then you know it is the ICM that is bad and not the coils. ICM fires cylinder 2,3 and 1,4 at once. If you have cylinder one misfire then you know it really is an ignition coil.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Check engine and traction light

Well, the replacement of the two values didn't help. Now been told that #2 cylinder needs R/R to the tune of $2,000. I just don't have that kind of money. Wish I could sell it but owe almost $3,000 on it. This shop is a Goodyear and I am thinking their prices might be higher than a regular shop? Any ideas or suggestions??
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 10:05 AM
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Always get a second opinion. Small corner garages are usually more honest and cheaper because they have less overhead. Also mechanics are smarter because they have to make due with less tools, so they become inventive and better at trouble shooting.

Did they do a compression test and found cylinder was bad?

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Check engine and traction light

Yes they said it had only 80 lbs but I am still not convinced. This whole mater started with the traction light coming on from time to time and then the check engine light would come on, sometimes at the same time as the Traction light. This was immediately after I had the oil changed and tires rotated.
Have another place gave me a much lower price than Goodyear but wants to versify that it is indeed the bad cylinder/valve. When I asked the guy at GY if the replacement of the valve would correct the traction light problem, he was not very committal.

I am living off SS and for the time being, unemployment payments. I don't have money to replace parts in "hopes" it will solve the problem.

Anyone have a mechanic recommendation for the Fort Worth area? I would even go into Dallas if necessary.

Thanks

PS This has got to be connected to the oil change and tire rotation. The GY people said they checked all the wheel sensors and all were good. I wonder if they checked the wiring? I am so confused and frustrated.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-26-2012, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Check engine and traction light-update

Okay guys... this is what has transpired up to date. Had the car checked again and sure enough 85 lbs of pressure on Cylinder #2. The tech was trying to trace down the problem with the Traction control problem and found that when he wiggle the key the testing machine would go crazy. So he thought it might be the ignition switch going bad or the ECM. He also said the key can be hard to turn and I comment that it was bent some. WOW....possible source of much of my problems. He suggested I take it to the dealer so they could use a machine specifically made for car. Took it to the dealer at that time both engine light and traction control light were one. 30 minutes later they had my car completed and this is what they did..

P2105 and P0561 inval data recieved from PCM code due to p0300 stored in PCM clear all codes all codes all ABS codes pass

Had a new key made before they did the test. It was in ignition when test was performed. Do you think the bent key was the cause of this all mess, at least the traction control issue???

Oh yeah, the service person, when I told her I was going to have a valve job to correct the low pressure corrected, was telling me that I should replace motor with at least a used one. That valve job may or may not fixed the problem. I might add that all other cylinders had 150 pressure.

The car runs great, good mpg 23 town 29 road, have 121,229 miles on it.

Last edited by [email protected]; 04-26-2012 at 11:20 AM.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-26-2012, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Okay guys... this is what has transpired up to date. Had the car checked again and sure enough 85 lbs of pressure on Cylinder #2. The tech was trying to trace down the problem with the Traction control problem and found that when he wiggle the key the testing machine would go crazy. So he thought it might be the ignition switch going bad or the ECM. He also said the key can be hard to turn and I comment that it was bent some. WOW....possible source of much of my problems. He suggested I take it to the dealer so they could use a machine specifically made for car. Took it to the dealer at that time both engine light and traction control light were one. 30 minutes later they had my car completed and this is what they did..

P2105 and P0561 inval data recieved from PCM code due to p0300 stored in PCM clear all codes all codes all ABS codes pass

Had a new key made before they did the test. It was in ignition when test was performed. Do you think the bent key was the cause of this all mess, at least the traction control issue???

Oh yeah, the service person, when I told her I was going to have a valve job to correct the low pressure corrected, was telling me that I should replace motor with at least a used one. That valve job may or may not fixed the problem. I might add that all other cylinders had 150 pressure.

The car runs great, good mpg 23 town 29 road, have 121,229 miles on it.
What great news! Hopefully you can enjoy many more happy miles in your Cobalt!

Take care,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-26-2012, 01:30 PM
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Engine swap would be your safest and cheapest way out if you have friends that are mechanics. I swapped 3 engines in the pass 9 months, we can now do it in about 10- 11 hours with two working at it .

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
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Check engine and traction light-trading out motors

Unfortunately I don't have buddies to help and I am getting a little old in the tooth to be doing that now days. The service person at the dealer is suppose to be calling me with a price if she finds a good used motor. I doubt, however, it would be cost effective for me. I lost my job back the end of Oct and have been living off SS and unemployment since then. I occasionally make a few bucks by selling memberships for Legal Shield protection.
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