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Old 07-28-2012, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Lights and Dash Out Fuse Keeps Blowing

Hello to everyone,

I need some help with a problem a family members 06 Cobalt has.

So a few days ago while in the car I noticed that the dash was out. So about a day later the cops pulled them over saying the tail lights were out hadn't noticed, but they would light for the break.

So I messed around with the fuses until we got to the park lamps. I replaced the fuse but as soon as the car starts it blows.

I've read a little about the problem could it be from the plate light?

Thank you for any opinion on it and helping me go about fixing it guys.
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:28 PM
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Yes, that would be the first place to look. The license plate socket being somewhat exposed to road salt has a tendency to corrode and short out. Pull the bulb and investigate. The rest of the bulbs on that fuse are fairly well protected from the elements.

---------- Post added at 11:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:22 PM ----------

Check this thread...

https://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/pro...g-fuses-3.html

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Old 07-29-2012, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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So I just got around to checking the bulb for the plate and it was burnt out, went up to Autozone and bought a replacement bulb, replaced the fuse and bulb and the fuse blew again.

So theres still a short somewhere.

We have a aftermarket head unit with the Scosche GM13SR adapter, I was wondering if it has something to do with that although it is working fine and the radio.

Very frustrating.
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Old 07-29-2012, 03:38 PM
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Did the fuse start burning after you installed the head unit? Was the lisence plate socket clean?

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Old 07-29-2012, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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No the radio was installed some time ago this problem is came up within the last couple days, the socket looks ok except for the plastic rim around the bulb is a little brown from the heat. Im trying to figure out what wires are behind the radio. Nothing was spliced or anything except for the ignition on to the adapter.

Im trying to post a url on CobaltSS net but its blocking the URL

tail-lights-stopped-working-urgent-if-you-can-help-248695/

Last edited by Dillmiester; 07-29-2012 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 07-29-2012, 05:38 PM
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You might have to go by process of elimination because that fuse supplies a lot of bulbs. Here is the diagram for both coupe and sedan. You might be able to disconnect rear lights and try a new fuse. It even runs the DRL on the 06. Any bad bulb or a chafed wire touching ground in this diagram would do it.


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Last edited by Coby7; 07-29-2012 at 05:47 PM.
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:50 AM
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does it have a sunroof? if youre leaking water inside the car, there could be too much moisture

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Old 07-30-2012, 06:57 AM
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Any luck?

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Last edited by Coby7; 07-30-2012 at 07:00 AM.
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Well they took it to a mechanic that works on the cars in the family, I wasn't there to see him work on it but I told them that he probably wasn't going to find the problem, I was right cause he just called and said we'll have to probably take it to the dealership. He had alot of the car taken apart yesterday, we don't have the money to put out for that though.

I know that I can fix it if we can narrow down whats in the circuit and where they are. My dad is against me clipping any wires, like taking the tail light out of the picture, although I don't think its the fixture.

I said all I can really do is make some calls around or something get ahold of someone that's worked on the problem in a dealership since my hands are tied pretty much.

Its a 2006 LTZ no sunroof.

Take a look at this thread on Cobalt SS net.

tsb-request-252952/

So apparently there is a service bulletin out for the problem, Im not positive that's what were experiencing, but its worth a look into I cant find anymore information on it.

NHTSA Item Number : 10020916

Service Bulletin Number : PIC3385

Last edited by Dillmiester; 08-01-2012 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:53 PM
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Normally 99.9% of the time when a bulb burns it opens. Occasionally as it burns it coils the two filament wires together causing a short. Either one of the bulbs has shorted or the wire is chafed against chassis somewhere. I would start by pulling all the bulbs on that circuit. Here's a little trick of the trade if you are familliar with the use of a multimeter. Instead of cutting wires you insert a needle through the brown wire and check if it is shorted to ground. Then when You pull the bad bulb the ground fault will disappear. If you have a meter with a beeper all the better the beep will go away when the short disappears. Same with tugging and jiggling wires when to beep disappears you know your close. These problems are the worst because they are very time consuming as you probably have already realised. Look at the diagram above there is only like 10 or 12 bulbs. Even the side markers are a possibility.

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