2006 Cobalt Engine Removal - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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2006 Cobalt Engine Removal

I have read a few posts on the site but I am not as skilled as most of the people here. I have a lift and am a fairly good mechanic. Could one of the more knowledgeable give me a step by step for the engine removal? It looks to me that from reading this site dropping the K frame with everything intack seems like the way to go. I have a few questions though. Once you get all the wires, cooling, air conditioning , steering and throttle body stuff and everything else disconnected now what? It looks like 4 large bolts on the K frame. Should you put an engine puller on the motor to support the engine while removing the K frame bolts? I guess if someone could walk me through this part it would be greatly appreciated!!! Actually a step by step through the whole procedure would be even better. Kind of a " engine pulling for dummies " kinda thing!!! Thanks great site!!!
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 10:57 AM
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 11:01 AM
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Welp, guess I better get to pulling the car apart. Someone charge my cameras!! lol


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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 04:34 PM
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Yes, if you have a hoist, that is the easiest way. Remove both wheels, undo all hoses including heater, brake lines and wiring don't forget starter wires. Disconnect exhaust at manifold. Remove all four big k frame bolts, 4 lower strut bolts (or upper six) undo intermediate shaft from steering rack. Lower car to the ground remove front motor mount, rear transmission mount and the bolts for the 2 other mounts firewall and rad support. Now lift car slowly, K frame should stay on the ground. More work but easier. Pulling the engine from the top is less work but you're going to curse like a devil in holy water.

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Last edited by Coby7; 03-28-2013 at 04:43 PM.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 07:20 PM
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I just did this to my 07 last fall and I didn't have a lift.

You can pull the engine out through the top or through the bottom. If you have a lift I can see going through the bottom being easier. I can explane to you exactly how I did mine and you can make the call.

I used 4 jacks to get this done for those that don't have a lift. The first 2 were at the corners right behind the front tires. You need these to articulate the car up and down while you are removing the engine. I had a 2X10 board that ran across the K frame on the bottom. I put two more jacks underneath it. If you situate it right the k frame will balance on the board. Now mine was a manual transmission. The automatics might be mounted different. The engine is only supported on the top passenger side and the rest was attached to the transmission. The transmission was supported in two locations on the K Frame. Once everything was taken off the engine and transmission I disconnected the stearing, manifold and transmission lines.

Then the struts from the top undone and ready to undo the 4 bolts. I marked the location of the frame so that I could realign it exactly in the same spot. I lifted the car and the jacks on the board so I could get under the car. Kept the jacks on the K Frame tight when I was removing the bolts so the frame wouldn't shift while I was under the car. Then I slowely lowered the K Frame about 8 inches to clear the frame so I could pull the engine from the transmission. Once they were apart I pulled the engine from the top. I did have to use leveler on the engine hoist as the engine will not come straight out because of the room in the top of the engine compartment in the front and back. The exhaust manifold and intake manifold don't clear by more than a couple of inches. I had someone help watch to make sure I wasn't binding or catching on anything as I was removing the engine. The car and K Frame were lowered and raised to get the best clearence.

If you have a lift I would think you may want to support the passenger side of the engine on the K Frame with something so you are not torqueing the tranny to the passenger side. Pulling from the top and using a hoist I didn't have that problem.

---------- Post added at 08:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:12 PM ----------

By the way you may need a air hammer to get the steering linkage loose. Mine would not come loose until I hit with one. Also make sure you don't let the steering turn when it is disconnected. I don't know why but the manual said to be very carefull about that. I used zip ties to make sure it wouldn't turn and a small pair of vice grips on the shaft also zip tied to the K Frame so it wouldn't turn. Same thing for the radiator. About 8 large zip ties 4 on each side that go all the way around the car will hold up the radiator once you drop the K Frame.

Be careful this was not the safest way to do this but I have the tools and time to work on my car. I am sure there are a lot of guys out there that thought this is crazy and wouldn't have done this but it got the job done.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-01-2013, 05:25 PM
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i would unbolt everything to separate it from the car, then pick the car up and put the K member on 4 jack stands, unbolt the K member and lift the car up over the motor.

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