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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Need Some Advice Here on My 08 Cobalt with Coolant in Oil

Hey everyone, I need some advice here if possible. I have a 08 Cobalt with the 2.2 ecotec. About 8 months ago I started the cobalt and it would misfire for about 5-10 seconds then smooth out. It did this ever since then but only if it sat for hours (overnight etc). I suspected maybe a bad coil. Then after this, after it started and i would take off, i would hear a slushing sound. Then one day the car said cooling mode so I pulled over and let the car cool down, it was low on coolant so I added coolant and it was fine for about a month. It would still misfire at startup and make the slushing sound but wouldnt overheat. I would always keep my eye on the coolant and then one day it started getting hot again so i added more coolant and did this for about 2 months. I always kept my eye on the oil and now it is getting coolant in the oil. I figured it must be a bad head gasket so I ordered the gasket set. Ive been reading some how to's and came across a few threads saying that the water pump seal is a common issue for coolant getting in the oil. What would you guys say? Im just thinking its for sure the head gasket because of the misfiring which I think is coolant getting in the cylinders. Just dont want to put all this work into the head gasket and it not help. Thanks for any info
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 02:01 PM
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Take out your spark plugs and shine a light down the spark plug hole and see if there is coolant in the cylinders. If you do, then it's for sure a head gasket at the very least.

What color is your oil? Is it a peanut butter color? If so, then I would do the head gasket if there is oil/coolant in the cylinders, if not, then do the water pump.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-30-2013, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the reply. There is cooalnt in the oil, it has the milky white sludge on oil cap & dipstick. Just looking for some extra advice. Does anyone know where I can get a step by step instructions? And will it have to be retimed or is there a way around it?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-30-2013, 03:28 PM
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you can pick up a chiltons and that will tell you step by step. it's not really a hard thing to do but it takes some time

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-30-2013, 04:47 PM
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Worst case you could also have a cracked block.



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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-01-2013, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonMcM88 View Post
thanks for the reply. There is cooalnt in the oil, it has the milky white sludge on oil cap & dipstick. Just looking for some extra advice. Does anyone know where I can get a step by step instructions? And will it have to be retimed or is there a way around it?
A milky white sludge doesn't always mean coolant. Could be regular heat condensation because of a PCV valve not working properly. That's why I was asking about the color of the oil.

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
Custom 3" DP, 3" Exhaust, GT3076R, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD, Hurst STS, ZZP triple pod, Autometer Cobalt boost/DPIC/WB gauges, Nitto NT05 245/40/18's, H&R Springs, 80:20 Meth Spray
Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-01-2013, 07:05 AM
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When my son thought he had a bad head gasket he was losing power and white smoke out of the exhaust. It turned out he had a cracked block. But not until after her took the engine apart and replaced all the gaskets. A lesson learned but he was not happy.



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Last edited by dondiego; 05-01-2013 at 07:07 AM.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-02-2013, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leveecius View Post
A milky white sludge doesn't always mean coolant. Could be regular heat condensation because of a PCV valve not working properly. That's why I was asking about the color of the oil.
The oil looked ok for awhile but I was loosing cooalnt somewhere, now it has the white sludge. Im sure its coolant though because its not leaking out of the car but I am loosing it. It does put out some white smoke for about the 1st 5 mins of running but not very much & at times none at all. Does anyone know if it will have to be retimed? Is there a way around retiming it? I plan on just replacing the gasket
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-02-2013, 05:48 PM
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if your motor was out of time, you wouldn't have a happy motor and you'd know it. you COULD be loosing coolant out of the water pump/pipe in the back, my car does a little bit. there is no way to replace the head gasket without re-timing your motor

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