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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Dipstick Clog?

Ive always changed my own oil, but a couple months ago I noticed that my dipstick always came out dry even though I knew it had plenty of oil and wasnt leaking. (I have an oil pressure gauge that while not perfect, is pretty reliable) The first time I pull the dipstick out after driving and letting it sit for a bit, it will have oil on it, but no matter how long I wait afterward the dipstick will remain dry until the car drives again.

I had a local place do my last oil change and they didnt notice anything wrong, but still to this day I have the same problem.

Could there be a clog or something that is somehow preventing oil from getting to the dipstick, except when the car is driven, and whats something I can do to check things out?

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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 02:03 PM
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you could take an air blower and blow air down the dipstick tube. I've honestly never heard of this problem before so I'm at a loss. The oil pan isn't hard to remove and will give you a definitive answer. I advise you to take the dipstick down with the pan because the dealer says they always get stuck and corrode into the pan, which mine did.

Could get the oil nice and hot and then change it, that should flush out anything in there.

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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GpB311 View Post
Ive always changed my own oil, but a couple months ago I noticed that my dipstick always came out dry even though I knew it had plenty of oil and wasnt leaking. (I have an oil pressure gauge that while not perfect, is pretty reliable) The first time I pull the dipstick out after driving and letting it sit for a bit, it will have oil on it, but no matter how long I wait afterward the dipstick will remain dry until the car drives again.

I had a local place do my last oil change and they didnt notice anything wrong, but still to this day I have the same problem.

Could there be a clog or something that is somehow preventing oil from getting to the dipstick, except when the car is driven, and whats something I can do to check things out?
umm, no, your dipstick actually runs right into your crank case through the oil pan. the stick itself goes into the oil pan in the oil storage. The only thing that could be causing something like that is you having oil gallies clogged and the oil isn't returning to the crank fast enough.

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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I use full synthetic and have always regularly changed my oil. Ive also used seafoam in the oil a couple times as well before changing it. What else can I do to clear the gallies if clogged?

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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 02:40 PM
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tear down and rebuild. that's honestly the only way to clean it.

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
Custom 3" DP, 3" Exhaust, GT3076R, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD, Hurst STS, ZZP triple pod, Autometer Cobalt boost/DPIC/WB gauges, Nitto NT05 245/40/18's, H&R Springs, 80:20 Meth Spray
Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Damn. Thats something Im def not prepared to do myself and dont want to pay someone to do...Ill have to pull the pan off at least next time I change the oil just to see what it looks like in there.

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 03:18 PM
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If you put 4.7liters or 5 quarts it should mark full on the dipstick if you also changed the filter on a 2.2l. Make sure you check the oil on a level plain. New oil is hard to see on the dipstick especially synthetic. Also there are so many ways for the oil to return to the pan that it is almost impossible for any amount of oil to stay anywhere for more than 20 seconds.

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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coby7 View Post
If you put 4.7liters or 5 quarts it should mark full on the dipstick if you also changed the filter on a 2.2l. Make sure you check the oil on a level plain. New oil is hard to see on the dipstick especially synthetic. Also there are so many ways for the oil to return to the pan that it is almost impossible for any amount of oil to stay anywhere for more than 20 seconds.
This is true, unless 80% of those ways are clogged.

OP, the only other thing that would cause oil to not show on the dipstick is the oil level being too low and the engine while running the oil pump has enough to push oil through to keep it from being super starved of oil, but it not having enough left in the crank case to show on the dipstick.

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
Custom 3" DP, 3" Exhaust, GT3076R, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD, Hurst STS, ZZP triple pod, Autometer Cobalt boost/DPIC/WB gauges, Nitto NT05 245/40/18's, H&R Springs, 80:20 Meth Spray
Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-13-2013, 05:49 PM
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I was just about to post that :P

I'm hoping your checking your oil on a level surface with the engine off. Seems like common sense but some people just don't know if they haven't been around cars

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Last edited by Coby7; 06-13-2013 at 05:51 PM.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-14-2013, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Yea, Ive checked it at home and work now and both times were on a flat surface. Im not due for another oil change for a couple months or so, so now Im concerned whether something could go wrong between now and then.

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