06 cobalt ls 2.2 eco piston removal please help! - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-16-2013, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation 06 cobalt ls 2.2 eco piston removal please help!

Hello Everyone,

I been a member of this forum for a few days now and Its been great help!
I want to thank everyone in advance.

06 balt 2.2 eco. Car has 77k miles. Bought it from a guy who ragged it and managed to blow the timing and bent valves. Sent head to machine shop and had it reconditioned...surfaced/valve job..the works. Put a new timing kit on it...gaskets, fluids...etc.

After All the work done I cranked the car and it started right up and ran very smooth...however, a couple minutes later...the car started smoking badly..smoke which disappeared after I drove it around....for a bit...I figured it was because of the left over oil from the job and so on.

Next day I cranked it and it smoked a bit as well...real bad smoke...it was oil.

I pulled plugs and they were very oily I checked compression and it was 200 across....but obv it was innacurate because of all the oil in the cumbustion chamber...i basically did a wet test.

Cleaned plugs and tried to crank car again and it wouldnt start...it would try but die out...At this point Im thinking theres too much oil around plugs and it was keeping it from a clean burn.

My conclusions were between bad valve stem seals or bad rings....after doing a little research I found that there couldnt possible be that much oil coming from the valve seals in this engine...I found that even if they were completely taken off ( seals) it would be that much oil.

So i figured it was the oil rings...I remember when I first drained the oil there were some "chunks" coming out...gunk. So Im guessing the oil rings are just sludged up and not working properly.

So i go and take the motor back apart....head...drop the pan...take the rod caps off and try and push the pistons through the top but they just WONT come up....I can only get the first ring to show.....Ive pulled pistons a few times and usually it just takes some light tapping and the piston assembly pushes right up??? I dont know whats going on....is there a certain sequence? or something holding the pistons in? I dont want to tap too hard...im afraid to score or knick something......please help I need to get this car back on the road.

I been reading and reading and I cant find anyone with the same problem. THanks in advance.

SORRY POST SO LONG....i figured Id give you as much info as possible so everything is clear. Thanks again!
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 05:18 AM
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Long is good. At 77Kmiles you will have a small ridge, try spinning the piston as you bring it to the top so it's not sitting at it's usual spot, then tap. Can't score cylinder if piston is already at the top. You will need to hone it anyway.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coby7 View Post
Long is good. At 77Kmiles you will have a small ridge, try spinning the piston as you bring it to the top so it's not sitting at it's usual spot, then tap. Can't score cylinder if piston is already at the top. You will need to hone it anyway.
First off Welcome to the forums, glad we are able to help.

Secondly, Coby is right on this. Your cylinders have a "lip" in them from where the rings have cut a small groove in your cylinder walls as they were seating. It's not a lot, but it's there, and you will probably either need to hone it out once the pistons are back out of the engine, or bore it .020 over (most engines that have almost 100k miles on them will need about that much anyways so you're right on cue ). Now, as far as getting them out, like Coby said, tapping them is not a bad idea, but use a soft face hammer that way you're not going to ruin anything else in the process. I recommend just getting new rings, but that is me. Any good machine shop will hone your cylinders, gap your new rings ad install the rings and pistons in for you, shoot, most will assemble the entire short block for you if you want them to lol.

Now before moving on, let me just ask a few questions, when the guy blew timing and bent a few valves and such, was anything else broken in there? Anything unusual in the oil? Also, did you use a new headgasket?

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
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Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the useful info! I was aware of a lip but since ive pulled pistons on engines with 150k miles on them in the past and they just came right up I didn't think that was the problem. But I will try this and hope for the best!

As far the anything else wrong in the engine....No. Besides a bit of sludge, the right timing chain guide was snapped off at the top...about 2 inches at the top tip. and the pieces were around the timing chain cover compartment. I figured that was from the timing snapping. this guy obv didnt take care of his engine and Im thinking the chain tensioner got stuck from sludge and just blew timing. The exhaust cam was almost half turn off. And yes I did use a new gasket and bolts. Always. Thanks again!

I will get to work right now on it and will get back to you with updates.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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PISTONS OUT! But now problems with oil ring fitting

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leveecius View Post
First off Welcome to the forums, glad we are able to help.

Secondly, Coby is right on this. Your cylinders have a "lip" in them from where the rings have cut a small groove in your cylinder walls as they were seating. It's not a lot, but it's there, and you will probably either need to hone it out once the pistons are back out of the engine, or bore it .020 over (most engines that have almost 100k miles on them will need about that much anyways so you're right on cue ). Now, as far as getting them out, like Coby said, tapping them is not a bad idea, but use a soft face hammer that way you're not going to ruin anything else in the process. I recommend just getting new rings, but that is me. Any good machine shop will hone your cylinders, gap your new rings ad install the rings and pistons in for you, shoot, most will assemble the entire short block for you if you want them to lol.

Now before moving on, let me just ask a few questions, when the guy blew timing and bent a few valves and such, was anything else broken in there? Anything unusual in the oil? Also, did you use a new headgasket?

I got the pistons out by twisting a bit like you guys said...came right up thanks!

Now my problem is... The oil ring expander ring seems to be wayyy to big. I bought a set of EBAY NPR(nipon piston ring) Set part SWG10019-0 and the compression rings are just fine but the oil expander is just wayy too big....is there anything I have to do? do I have to compress them with the piston right tool? or maybe they sent me the wrong ones? please help..
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 05:53 AM
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What do you mean by way too big? Any pics to explain the issue? Or are you talking about the ring gap?

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
Custom 3" DP, 3" Exhaust, GT3076R, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD, Hurst STS, ZZP triple pod, Autometer Cobalt boost/DPIC/WB gauges, Nitto NT05 245/40/18's, H&R Springs, 80:20 Meth Spray
Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


Master ASE Certified Gasoline/Diesel Technician since 2004

Speed Junkies Social Group

Yourcobalt Official Facebook Page!

Syndicate of Tuners Official Page! Up and going again as of 1/11/13

Click here to PM me if you have questions or issues!
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