Guys... I'm Stumped - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Guys... I'm Stumped

As many of you know, its a cold one this year.

1) Sometime in November it was near zero and I went to turn my car on. It barely wanted to start and the needles dropped below zero, heard a buzz, and then the temp said like -66.

2) Beginning of December when it was the coldest day yet, with negative windchill up here in upstate new york, I went to start my car and it wouldn't. Figured the battery was dead, so I got it jumped.

3) Went to advance auto, got a new battery installed, had the whole system tested on load. 13.6v which should be 14.6 or so. The reading was a little low so the guy figured my alternator could be kinda of worn out.

4) Earlier this month, a few weeks after my new battery, it was cold out like it has been, went to start my car again... wouldn't turn over. Jumped it again.

5) Was going to get a new battery swapped with warranty, got the battery checked. Out of 650 CCA it had 120, he charged it to 270. Assured me the battery still had life, figured the alternator could be bad. Bought a battery charger before I left.

6) I charged the battery to full, tested everything after a few days. Was getting 11.5v and not the 12.6v I was looking for. 13.6 on load. I checked for parasitic draw and came up with .40-50ma, which I guess is allowed, if it was 2-10 amps, there would be a real draw on the system.

7) On really freaking cold days, when I stop the car, the rpms drop, lights dim a little, and my car wants to stall - this doesn't happen all the time, and only happens after the car has been fully heated up, usually coming home. If it drops enough, I will get the P0121 code.

When it warmed up. Took the alternator out finally... took it to a guy who rebuilds them, a real professional, whom tested it and it was just fine. He told me I could throw money at him, but it would be a waste. The guy inspected it for a few minutes, said everything was just fine. Also cleaned the ever ***** out of the MAF.

9) Checked the battery today, now its at 12.01v and I just stalled in the middle of an intersection coming home. Got code P0121 again. Trying to re-create the stall in my driveway - I felt like turning on the AC to max or fog lights would drop the rpm a little. However that test only responded to that factor once or twice.

I'm drawing straws here. I plan to get the battery tested for a CCA level tomorrow.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 04:57 PM
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Did you see the recent post on alt cable issue (undersized)...you might want to take a look.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 05:19 PM
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I would check for corrosion on the starter connections. If there's any amount of green oxidization undo the nuts, put the dremmel wire wheel to it or the steel brush. Your stalling at intersection is probably caused by a dirty throttle body. It won't stall in open loop because throttle is up at that time. Light dimming when engine hits rpms below 700 is normal. What is not is rpm going below 750 at idle.

---------- Post added at 08:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 PM ----------

If you decide to clean your throttle body yourself make sure key is not in the ignition at the time.

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Cleaned throttle body too.

I'll check out the starter though and the post about alt cable size.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 05:23 PM
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Another thing you might want to clean is the boost post make sure there's no oxidization there also. Make sure it's tight. It needs a 10mm socket. Battery power goes to boost post first then to starter so if you have a bad connection at the boost post you lose voltage at the starter.

Every minute spent angry is a happy minute lost for ever and ever!!!
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Drives 2016 Sunset Orange Trax LT1 1.4L Turbo auto 3GNCJPSB8GL142716

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