Blower Motor Problem..need Help - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Blower Motor Problem..need Help

My blower motor in my 07 cobalt stopped working....here's what I know so far...there had been a low rumble on low that was intermittent for some time...when the speed was increased, it stopped...the other night, I drove somewhere, got out and when I came back, started the car and the blower wouldn't run. I checked the fuse but it was ok and I did notice a kind of burnt electrical smell in the car, you know, the kind of smell you get with hot electrical problems...I had had a similar problem some time ago where the dealer said that they found a broken wire when the blower had stopped that time. I looked up how to replace the blower and fan and see that they had replaced it since the assembly appears to be the screw on version instead of the molded in one. Anyway, I checked the wires leading from the switch to the connector and didn't find any signs of broken wiring and so I took my test light and stuck it into the connector and only got a faint glow not a bright light. Next I took the fan motor assembly out and hooked a set of connectors up and hooked it to the battery in my wife's car...and the fan motor ran just fine. so I hooked it up in my car again just to see, but still no go... Is there a resistor or something in the line that may be burnt out and not letting enough voltage reach the motor to run it?
I have bought an new blower but don't want to try it if there may be another reason why my original won't run.
any help would be appreciated since it's pretty cold outside these days.
thanks
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 05:31 PM
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Do any of the speeds work?

Yes, there is a resistor network.


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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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no speeds

no, the fan does not run at all.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 06:05 PM
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As you can see from the diagram one of 3 fuses can stop the motor from running.

---------- Post added at 09:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:47 PM ----------

Also usually even if the resistor network goes you still have high speed, because highspeed bypasses the resistor network except the connector. You could check the resistor network connectors to see if they melted or burned.

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I've only checked the fuse on the fuse panel inside, so I'll check the ones in the BCM in the morning. I still wonder why I am getting some power to the connector at the fan motor if a fuse is out somewhere.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 06:41 PM
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The minute you turn the rotary switch from off position you should get 12 volts at the motor. You should also hear the relay click. That's the one (30)at the very top of the BCM. The rotary switch applies different resistor values to ground with highspeed directly to ground.

---------- Post added at 09:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:33 PM ----------

You should not have any voltage at the blower motor with the switch to off. Relay contact should be open at this point.

---------- Post added at 09:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:35 PM ----------



---------- Post added at 09:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:37 PM ----------

The 2 fuses to check are the ones either side of the relay top row (10) & (16)

---------- Post added at 09:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:38 PM ----------

Pull them out to check them because not only do you want to see if they are burnt but also see if the tabs are pitted.


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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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ok... when the rotary switch was off there was no power...when I turned the switch, I then heard what seemed to be the engine cooling fan come on as though the air conditioning circuit had been activated. The burnt electrical smell may be the key to pinpointing the problem...where do I look for the resistor network?

---------- Post added at 09:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:03 PM ----------

Here's another thing that i just noticed now...a neighbour came to the door and told us that the interior light was on, so I went out to see if I had switched it on, but it was in the normal position for door operation..so I locked the car, the light went out and I came back inside. I was standing looking out and the light came on by itself again. Our key fobs have not worked for some time, so they could not be locking or unlocking the doors to activate the interior light...what do you think is up with that and might it be related?
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 07:26 PM
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The blower resistor is down there near the fan, its installed into the airbox/air duct. You will see the wires going to it.

Make sure you check the ground connector c210, I seen a post on here about that being melted. It should be near the fan too... trace the blower motor wires till you find it

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 07:26 PM
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The blower motor resistor is normally located right around the base of the fan. Normally to the side or behind it closest to the firewall

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by London Canuck View Post
Here's another thing that i just noticed now...a neighbour came to the door and told us that the interior light was on, so I went out to see if I had switched it on, but it was in the normal position for door operation..so I locked the car, the light went out and I came back inside. I was standing looking out and the light came on by itself again. Our key fobs have not worked for some time, so they could not be locking or unlocking the doors to activate the interior light...what do you think is up with that and might it be related?
Remove batteries from FOBs to make sure they are not intermittently activating the door locks. Also maybe one of your doors isn't completely shut or latched.

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