Error Code P0010 - 2010 Cobalt LT - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Error Code P0010 - 2010 Cobalt LT

About 6 months ago, my check engine light came on. Went to AutoZone, was told the code was P0010. I was several thousand miles overdue for an oil change, so I had that done, and the light went away.

Then about 2 months ago, the check engine light came on again. Same code: P0010 -- Checked oil, everything looked good there. The next morning, the light was off, so I figured it was a fluke.

This morning, I'd started my car via remote start. As soon as I walked outside, I could hear that my car was idling funny (sounded rough, kind of like it was coughing?)... I got in, turned the engine off, then cranked it up using the key. Same rough idle. Let it sit for about 10 minutes, as it was pretty cold this morning, but the idle continued to be rough. Decided to put it in reverse to see what would happen... As soon as I started to back up, it seemed to sputter a bit (almost like it would if it were running out of gas.) Shifted into drive, pulled it back into the driveway, and turned off the engine.

I haven't had the current code read yet, but I feel I'm probably pretty safe in assuming it's going to come back as the P0010 (don't worry, I'll get it read before I make any concrete repair decisions.)

My question is, if it is the same P0010 code... how difficult is it to replace that camshaft position thing-a-ma-bob. I'm (clearly) not all that mechanically inclined, but I'm intelligent enough to follow good directions.

So, can anyone tell me where this part is located, how hard it is to find/replace, and are there any special tools I'd need or will "standard" tools (wrench, screw driver, etc.) be sufficient.

As additional information, the only other mechanical issue I've had with this vehicle was the power steering thingy kept shorting out, and that was replaced under warranty back in 2012. It currently has just shy of 78k miles on it.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 11:18 AM
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DTC P0010: Intake Camshaft Position (CMP) Actuator Solenoid Control Circuit.

This code doesn't tell you much except you have a problem. It could be a cam position sensor (intake or exhaust) or it could be an actuator (intake or exhaust). It's right on top of the valve cover passenger side. Easy to change with regular tools.

If you don't change your oil regularly, these cam actuators will get contaminated and stick or fail.

But in your case I don't think the code will be P0010 for the rough idling, we shall see.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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With the exception of the one time I was overdue, I generally change the oil when my little dashboard module says I'm at about 5% oil life. I've heard some people say that's a terrible thing to do, and that I should ignore what that thing says and still change my oil every 3k miles. My thought is, if it needed to be changed at 3k miles, wouldn't my little monitor say so? It seems that whenever I get down to about 5% oil life, I've run it for about 8k miles or so.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 01:10 PM
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Monitor was designed for synthetic oil. If you use conventional oil you should go with the 3K miles system.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, so I just checked codes - it's giving me P0010 *and* P0011, which is a new one I haven't seen it throw before. Idle is still super rough... Oil percentage says 20% and I don't run synthetic so if I get the oil changed, will that fix the problem? I hesitate to take it to a mechanic or the dealer b/c most places around here see a female that doesn't know much about cars and take advantage.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 02:01 PM
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Looks like you have an actuator that is stuck. Pretty sure the 2010 has 2 though but maybe not. Code doesn't specify if it's intake or exhaust so maybe yours only has one. Somebody on here will let us know. Or even better I will go lift the hood on my 2010 that just pulled in the yard and I'll come back on here after with my findings.

P0011
• The control module has enabled the CMP actuator.

• The difference between the desired CMP actuator angle and the actual CMP actuator angle is more than 6 degrees.

• The CMP actuator is steady for 3 seconds.

• The condition is present for 13.5 seconds.

---------- Post added at 04:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:52 PM ----------

Yeah my 2010 has 2 cam actuators, now it's just a matter of finding out which one is bad. I would assume it's the intake since it's running rough.



---------- Post added at 05:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:59 PM ----------

Should be some experts chiming in anytime.

---------- Post added at 05:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:00 PM ----------

As far as dealers, I'm with you on that one.

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Last edited by Coby7; 05-23-2018 at 09:35 AM.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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At this point, unless these parts are just crazy expensive, I'd be inclined to just replace the both... (Silly, I know, but I hate troubleshooting)... Am I safe in assuming I can just kill the engine, pull the parts out, pop in the new ones and that's all I need to do, or is this one of things where you have to worry about the position of other things? Some guy at work spouted off something about possibly needing to be "top dead center"....?

Thanks, by the way, for all your help thus far - it's greatly appreciated!
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 03:00 PM
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Let me check the GM server...

---------- Post added at 05:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:33 PM ----------

Don't you hate that when guys spew out stuff just to make you think they know more about cars than you do. After this you'll be able to tell the the engine just has to be "OFF"

Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve Replacement
Removal Procedure

1.Remove the intake manifold cover.
2.Disconnect the intake (3) or exhaust (2) camshaft position actuator solenoid valve electrical connector, as required.
3.Remove the exhaust (1) camshaft position (CMP) actuator solenoid valve bolt and valve, as required.
4.Remove the intake (2) CMP actuator solenoid valve bolt and valve, as required.
5.Inspect the solenoid valve O-ring seals from damage, replace as necessary.
Installation Procedure
6.Lubricate the solenoid valve O-ring seals with clean engine oil.
7.Install the intake (2) CMP actuator solenoid valve and bolt, as required and tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
8.Install the exhaust (1) CMP actuator solenoid valve and bolt, as required and tighten the bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
9.Connect the intake (3) or exhaust (2) camshaft position actuator solenoid valve electrical connector, as required.
10.Install the intake manifold cover.

---------- Post added at 06:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:50 PM ----------

I believe GM part #for intake is 12655420 and exhaust actuator is #12655421 and this gives you a pretty good idea what you should pay and what they look like. These numbers are the revised version of the original actuators so try and get these instead of 12628347,12628348 which are the ones you might have in your car.

GM CAM Actuator Solenoids | eBay

Chevrolet 2 4L Camshaft Position Actuator Intake Solenoid Valve NEW 12655420 | eBay
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Last edited by Coby7; 04-16-2014 at 03:05 PM.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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You, Coby7, are amazing. Thank you so much for your time and help. Between the info posted above and another friend of mine, I feel like I can get this repair done without breaking the bank. Seriously, kudos to you, thanks a million!
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 04:17 PM
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Drives 2016 Sunset Orange Trax LT1 1.4L Turbo auto 3GNCJPSB8GL142716

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