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Broke My Car :(

23K views 36 replies 5 participants last post by  cobaltftw 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, so i broke my car (2010 2.2L LT Turbo) :( i was out doing a datalog for Trifecta when the series of unfortunate events began. I got on it pretty good, got into boost and at around 3700rpms i just lost all power and it ran super rough, same at idle. When i drive it it goes well into 3500rpms before shifting. also when its in gear its almost always getting into boost. I got four CEL's:
P0011
P0014
P0016
P0300
All of them seem to do with camshaft timing and a random misfire, id really like to know if somethings actually broke (i.e timing chain or camshaft) or if its just the timings off. Thanks guys. And of course when i got home i found out my kitchen sink is leaking...wtf
 
#2 ·
Looks like one of your cam actuators didn't follow it's control voltage. P0300 is a multiple missfire which is understandable if your cam stuck at one spot

---------- Post added at 10:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:26 PM ----------

A cam actuator is about $35 and is changed in about the same time as a spark plug.

---------- Post added at 10:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:28 PM ----------

Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve Replacement
Removal Procedure

1.Remove the intake manifold cover.
2.Disconnect the intake (3) or exhaust (2) camshaft position actuator solenoid valve electrical connector, as required.
3.Remove the exhaust (1) camshaft position (CMP) actuator solenoid valve bolt and valve, as required.
4.Remove the intake (2) CMP actuator solenoid valve bolt and valve, as required.
5.Inspect the solenoid valve O-ring seals from damage, replace as necessary.
Installation Procedure
6.Lubricate the solenoid valve O-ring seals with clean engine oil.
7.Install the intake (2) CMP actuator solenoid valve and bolt, as required and tighten the bolt to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
8.Install the exhaust (1) CMP actuator solenoid valve and bolt, as required and tighten the bolt to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
9.Connect the intake (3) or exhaust (2) camshaft position actuator solenoid valve electrical connector, as required.
10.Install the intake manifold cover.
 
#3 ·
Coby7 - just an FYI i had replaced both those sensors under warranty in my 09 2.2 LT. And since then ive gotten 30+ mpg in mainly city driving. Could they really affect mpg like that? Dont mean to thread jack, just read it and had to ask. :) i hope the op gets his sink and car fixed. :)
 
#4 ·
Yep, sounds like a cam sensor gave out. Too much timing advance is never a good thing to see, especially on FI. If you were data logging, tell Vince to check the log and see what happened. With the log he should be able to see the voltages for it as well as see how much timing it went over and if anything internally damaging was done.
 
#5 ·
awesome thank you all for your replies. Ill have to look for the solenoids online so i can buy them tonight. any suggestions for good places to buy them from? so these little solenoids can cause your car to idle so rough, thats amazing to me! again, i greatly appreciate your help Coby7 and Leveecius
 
#6 · (Edited)
#7 ·
Did you try pulling out the intake cam actuator and starting it to see if cam comes back to detent. Plug the hole if you don't want a bit of oil flying all over.
 
#8 ·
i havent tried that yet, ill have to give that a shot when i get home from work. forgive my lack of knowledge but what do you mean by "detent"?
 
#9 ·
When there is no command to the cam actuators they return to their detent or home position if you want. When you start your car your cams should be at detent position until ECM goes into closed loop.
 
#10 ·
gooootcha, so i should take it and try and start it with it out? ill give that a shot when i get off. either way i have new intake and exhaust solenoids on the way. again, thank you
 
#11 ·
yeah im gonna have to try that since the parts wont be here till next friday and i have to get to work friday. so just making sure i got it right, i pull it out and start it with the solenoid still out?
 
#12 ·
Yes. Don't let it run for ever, just long enough to see if problem goes away or changes
 
#13 ·
alrighty, ill have to try this on Monday when im off again. Thanks again!
 
#14 ·
gave it a try removing them one at a time to see if it fixed itself and it didnt :( there is a pretty loud squealing sound too when it idles, i assume this to be from the same issue?
 
#15 ·
So question, what exactly does replacing these do? Reset the timing or something?


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#16 ·
Might not be your problem though if engine still runs rough without them.
 
#17 ·
#18 ·
Timing chain might have jumped a cog, but I'm no mechanic. Usually it can jump one cog without doing any damage to the valves and still run. To know for sure you will need to pull the valve cover or bring it to your friendly mechanic.
 
#19 ·
I know most DOHC engines can jump 2 "teeth/cogs" before they will start doing damage. The actuators allow the ECU to automatically control the camshafts, that is what the VVT is. Those actuators control the VVT, and if they aren't reading right, they won't tell the ECU where your timing is on your camshaft and it will throw everything off and the ECU will start guessing. lol
 
#20 ·
Well i have the solenoids coming in so im hoping ill work. I sure hope the chain isnt messed up too bad, if its off a bit do i need to replace it or just have put back where it needs to be?


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#21 ·
I would replace if it's off. Just putting it back doesn't fix the issue of why it jumped in the first place. If it was a belt I'd say just go ahead and re-time it, but chains if they jump usually means something is wrong (aka tensioner, guide or stretched chain).
 
#22 ·
Alright man, i already have the new tensioner. Ill go ahead and buy a new chain. Hopefully the solenoids will work in the meantime so i can at least go to work until i get the chain in


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#23 · (Edited)
If it jumped a cog don't drive it, because if it jumps one more cog you will bend valves and need to get the head re-worked.
 
#24 · (Edited)
#25 ·
What mileage is on your car?

---------- Post added at 06:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:20 PM ----------

A 2010 should have the new tensioner and your chain should not have jumped unless you have very high mileage.
 
#26 ·
its around 85K miles, i have the new tensioner already, just need to put it in
 
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