Control Arm Bushing Replacement? - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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Control Arm Bushing Replacement?

For your daily dose of "glad that's not me," I thought I'd toss out a suspension issue and take a poll.

A couple of days ago I started to hear a loud popping sound coming from my front, driver's side. When I do not hear it: cruising on the highway and driving roads that are a bit uneven. When I do hear it: low speed inclines. When I do very short stops (3 inches at a time), only after releasing the brake, there's a distinctive pop. When it sounds like I hit a pedestrian: going up a steep incline from a level street.

Now, my sway bar bushings look good, endlinks are tight and bushings are in place, no broken springs, and struts are about a year old. I put on new pads and rotors a month ago without incident. No obvious trauma.

Tonight I was coming into the garage and heard a loud pop. I believe I felt the my tire shimmy a bit (steering otherwise has felt good w/o steering wheel vibration).

My only thought is my CAB's are bad. I took a few shots and the first has me the most uneasy.





Anyone care to weigh in?

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 10:30 PM
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Trailing CAB it's very common, if you're replacing them yourself and the bolt really isn't going to budge don't force it or it'll make it even harder.

2009 Cobalt LS XFE (F23) Victory Red
YYZ V.3 Springs, Koni shocks/struts, Powell XXX rear swaybar, Brembo brake swap, 5 lug conversion, Ion Redline wheels, SS/SC interior swap including power conversion, K&N intake, Trifecta tune, Ark Performance N-II catback, Ark shorty antenna, SS body kit, Powell F23 rotated mount, LNF rear mount, Powell CABs
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I am trying to figure out the best approach to get it done quickly and at the lowest cost. I am not a fan of throwing parts at problems.

I've got air, so if I have to replace the whole arm I'm not too concerned. I hope. I've read that it can be a son of a gun to get that bolt out. I just want to be reasonably sure what the issue is before I pony up cash.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 10:49 PM
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Put a crowbar between the frame and the control arm is you can move it around excessively it's bad. I can tell you now it's bad though, the bushing is falling out of the arm already. Mine were bad but not nearly that bad.

2009 Cobalt LS XFE (F23) Victory Red
YYZ V.3 Springs, Koni shocks/struts, Powell XXX rear swaybar, Brembo brake swap, 5 lug conversion, Ion Redline wheels, SS/SC interior swap including power conversion, K&N intake, Trifecta tune, Ark Performance N-II catback, Ark shorty antenna, SS body kit, Powell F23 rotated mount, LNF rear mount, Powell CABs
Soon to come- EFR 6758 turbo kit and make Retro Headlights.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 10:17 PM
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I just replaced my RH & LH lower control arms because the back CAB's were bad. I had similar symptoms...a loud "thunk" while applying the brakes at low speed.From what I've read the rear CAB failures are extremely common...I think they're almost a design flaw.

I think it's better to replace the whole control arm because you kill three birds with one stone..the two CAB's and your lower ball joint. I noticed one of my ball joints was bad when I pulled my control arms out. It might be more expensive but it's way more straight forward...you need to find a mechanics shop with a press; also I noticed that my control arms by the rear CAB were wore down quite a bit from the metal rubbing on metal. I paid around $250 CAD for both sides.

JUST BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING THE BIG BOLT THAT HOLDS IN THE REAR CAB. If you are turning it and it is not coming out, STOP. That means the nut on the other end is turning out because the CAB is rusted onto the bolt. If you keep at it the nut will come out of it's "cage" and you will have to drop the sub-frame. Try tightening it super tight to get it loose & try getting some pb blaster in there.

See my post here on what I did to get them out: https://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/pro...ng-brakes.html

Last edited by jrsmith; 06-03-2014 at 10:22 PM. Reason: Spelling
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
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JR, I appreciate your advice. I've been reading similar comments by Powell over at SS. I ordered a new control arm and some replacement hardware yesterday in case I get in a bind. In the mean time, I'm driving another car and soaking the heck out of it with PB Blaster. I'm curious, did you use air tools? I'm wondering if that would be helpful to break the tension or increase my odds of the captive nut spinning.

From what I can tell, it's a 50/50 crap shoot for those of us in the salt belt. For anyone interested, I'll update this when the part comes in.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 05:48 AM
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If I were you guys I would replace the conventional bushing...with a MOOG "Problem Solver" part# K200792.


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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 10:03 AM
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I used all hand tools :-( I would definitely recommend using an impact gun if you got it...would have made it 100% easier for me.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 07:00 AM
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Just got my parts in from RockAuto. They were priced very well compared to local parts stores. Moog problem solvers... Any advice before I start? I heard that some original ball joints are riveted. I am also curious, what's the best way to change out the frontward (horizontal) bushing? Are there any how to/diy or videos on this?



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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-25-2014, 08:16 AM
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Still curious about the frontward horizontal bushing... Anyone know how to replace it?
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