P0303 and Service Traction Saga - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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P0303 and Service Traction Saga

Hey everyone,

I looked at all the other post and mines a bit odd, at first I had the typical P0303, and then latter came the P0013 and P0014, so I changed the plugs and the Variable Valve Timing Solenoid's and switched the coil from 3 to 2 to be sure it wasn't a coil kicking the bucket.

The P0013 and P0014 are long gone but the P0303 keeps coming back, had the battery and Alt tested fine.

My odd issue is it only happens when the car is stationary, I can drive her 300 miles of highway non stop and it never comes up and the service traction never pop's but the minute I sit still in a drive thru, stop light or use the autostart it pops the P0303?

Since it's warmer I have noticed it comes a lot more and rather faster when using the ac, I added a bottle of seafoam to the tank yesterday and have drove maybe 50 miles if that "live on a small island" so I don't drive very many miles unless on a road trip, I might also add it seems much worse and doing it more since adding the seafoam to the tank maybe it's just that the issue is getting worse now, also today while at a stop light I got the flashing check motor light, pulled over and killed reset the codes and was fine until the next light then the light came back on solid, 1st time it's done the flashing and running bad deal

Oil is fine and clean also, should I try the Seafoam into the intake to see if that solves the issue next or what step should I try next?

Thanks for any help that I might have overlooked and not tried yet and oh yeah I'm at 106,728 miles on her as well

Donnie

Last edited by Justaguytx; 04-10-2016 at 11:35 AM. Reason: left out detail
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 11:41 AM
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The infamous P0303, It should mean cylinder 3 misfire, this is a code that GM never figured out why the ECM puts it out when it doesn't know what else to come up with. In the past after many people on here having the P0303, I have come to the conclusion that this is caused by one of your HOČ sensors going bad but not quite out of range yet. You will eventually get a code as for which one, but if this is bugging you (and it would bug the hell out of me) You could change one or both and see if it clears your problem. Me it was the first one, maybe you want to try with that one first if it has never been changed yet. Depending on gas quality they last about 150k miles.

Best way to diagnose the P0303 is to check history for misfire counts. A cylinder 3 with no misfire counts shouldn't put out a P0303 therefore in this case it would be a dud code because the ECM doesn't know what else to put out.

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Last edited by Coby7; 04-10-2016 at 11:45 AM.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coby7 View Post
The infamous P0303, this is a code that GM never figured out why the ECM puts it out when it doesn't know what else to come up with. In the past after many people on here having the P0303, I have come to the conclusion that this is caused by one of your HOČ sensors going bad but not quite out of range yet. You will eventually get a code as for which one, but if this is bugging you (and it would bug the hell out of me) You could change one or both and see if it clears your problem. Me it was the first one, maybe you want to try with that one if it has never been changed yet. Depending on gas quality they last about 150k miles.
Thank you for the heads up ideal, I will be ordering and changing them as it drives me crazy, it's bad enough the hard shifting and I messed something up because I didn't unplug the battery and unplugged the airbag when removing it and now I have the service airbag on the dic, I know better than to do that ughh!
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 11:48 AM
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This should not have affected the SRS module unless you popped a fuse maybe.

---------- Post added at 03:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 PM ----------

What kind of code reader do you have? What kind of cell phone?

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coby7 View Post
This should not have affected the SRS module unless you popped a fuse maybe.

---------- Post added at 03:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 PM ----------

What kind of code reader do you have? What kind of cell phone?
Yeah that was my bad on the airbag light, I was hooking up the radio wheel controls and flipped the key over to make sure they worked and the bag was unplugged I just have the Actron CP9125 and have found it fits great in the cubby above where I have to plug it up a lot and a Nokia 950xl windows phone
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 12:07 PM
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Torque Pro works good with an Android phone.




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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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Torque Pro works good with an Android phone.



I still have several of my Droid phones, maybe I should buy the app and make use of one of these non used phones I have around here
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 12:21 PM
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Should work with a windows phone just not with an apple

---------- Post added at 04:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:20 PM ----------

Try downloading the free APP ''Torque'' and see

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 10:00 PM
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O2 Sensors are cheap on Ebay, and these are the OEM ones just like what came on the car originally, not generics. Anything over 120K miles, I'd change it just for the sake of changing it and getting optimum MPG. I had a sensor go bad once, made my truck buck at highway speeds, all else ran fine. I'd check the compression if you haven't done so yet.

I say it again, you don't need a complete misfire, just a weak fire. The ECM can spot a very slight speed difference when 1 cylinder doesn't fire or fires weak due low compression or sucking water from a leaking head gasket or cracked head or valve sticking open just slightly longer than it should at idle.

We never want to admit it could be something this bad but hey, you need Fuel, Compression and Spark to make it pop. Any weakness in any and the slight speed difference will get picked up. Could be bad fuel such as water but that wouldn't be isolated to ONE particular cylinder.

As an update, since I've done my Valve job, I haven't had ONE dash id DIC light go off, Or Service traction or ANYTHING other than rock solid silky smooth operation, and I just came back from a 500 mile trip! My city MPG jumped up 2 mpg also.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itzmepete View Post
O2 Sensors are cheap on Ebay, and these are the OEM ones just like what came on the car originally, not generics. Anything over 120K miles, I'd change it just for the sake of changing it and getting optimum MPG. I had a sensor go bad once, made my truck buck at highway speeds, all else ran fine. I'd check the compression if you haven't done so yet.

I say it again, you don't need a complete misfire, just a weak fire. The ECM can spot a very slight speed difference when 1 cylinder doesn't fire or fires weak due low compression or sucking water from a leaking head gasket or cracked head or valve sticking open just slightly longer than it should at idle.

We never want to admit it could be something this bad but hey, you need Fuel, Compression and Spark to make it pop. Any weakness in any and the slight speed difference will get picked up. Could be bad fuel such as water but that wouldn't be isolated to ONE particular cylinder.

As an update, since I've done my Valve job, I haven't had ONE dash id DIC light go off, Or Service traction or ANYTHING other than rock solid silky smooth operation, and I just came back from a 500 mile trip! My city MPG jumped up 2 mpg also.
Thank's for the ideals, my check light has stayed off the last day now at least but it's showing in pending, of course the Trac off comes here and there, maybe I do need to do a compression test, I hate the thought of that since the truck I traded for it was needing major work "head gasket" why I traded for the car in the first place as the Pathfinders are nightmares to have major motor work done on.

I have noticed I'm getting a very light ticking tapping sound when at idle as well my oil life is down to 31% now and have no clue what they had in it when I got it from the dealer of if it's the correct weight just that it was done before I picked the car up, I have seen talk of the timing tensioner and about them making noise how complex is changing it out and checking to make sure that could be the faint tapping sound.

I'm getting between 20-25 mpg in town with major major stop and go most of the time between 10-30 mph only drive her like 100 miles in town driving during the week if even that because I live so close to work, on the open road I get between 30-36 depending on how fast I drive her and she runs great, are my mpg looking bad from what I just said?

Thank you!
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