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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-02-2016, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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All of a Sudden It Just Clicks

i have been letting the girl drive the balt because her car is broke down. well the other day she calls and tells me she had to get a jump to get it started. up until now it started every time flawless now this. it has the original battery so it could be the battery but i wonder now that she can't crank it even with a jump. she has been using the post and the marked neg under the hood and then today she tried the battery connections just in case she was not getting a good contact under the hood. without being there yet i guess it might be the battery or even the starter/solenoid but what are some other spots i might look for? maybe a fuse or fuse link? where might they be to check out? or any other ideas that may cause this. i have a few ideas but some of these cars have newer places that might cause just a click and no crank.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-02-2016, 01:08 PM
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She may have loosened the boost post when boosting. Some people will wiggle the alligator plier to get a better contact and accidentally unscrew the boost post. The boost post secures the wire connection between the starter and the battery.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-02-2016, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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She may have loosened the boost post when boosting. Some people will wiggle the alligator plier to get a better contact and accidentally unscrew the boost post. The boost post secures the wire connection between the starter and the battery.
well coby i think it is a battery. i took out the starter and took it to auto one and it tested ok. then i got back and put it in and same thing. so i jumped it again making sure that post was tight and it clicked and after about 10 minutes it started and then the car with the lock came on and the battery saver came on and we drove it home and the check engine flashed all the way home for misfiring. the engine ran like crap. as soon as i got the battery boost on it the misfire went away but the security light is still on that may go away after a few trips and the battery saver is still on that may go off after the battery charges. i believe it is time vfor a new battery being this one is the original one. 10 years is a great service life. thanks for that reply. i will let every one know if the battery does it. in a few days or weeks got to give it time. thanks bp.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-02-2016, 05:45 PM
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Make sure your alternator works. Should have at least 14.3 volts when engine is running. With key off check battery voltage, it should read 12.3. Turn lights on and battery should remain above 12 for at least 30 seconds. If it drops suddenly to 10 volts you have a bad cell and need a new battery.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-03-2016, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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i did get a new battery today. i load tested the battery today and it was low at the start and after the load it was in the weak. i have a gage that tell me how many amps are leaving the battery when the key is on and lights then when she started it it showed amps going back into the battery so the charging system is working fine.

tell me when i jumped the battery and the engine did finally start it was missing bad sounded like 2 cylinders where not firing. i drove it home and when i put it on the boost charge the engine ran just fine and the flashing engine light went out and the abs and t/c went off and then after i charged the battery the car with the lock in it was gone. security i think. so was that normal for the misfire with a bad battery? i'm thinking it barley had power to fire the plugs and if so i got real lucky driving it 20 miles home. thanks coby7

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-03-2016, 04:05 PM
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All the sensors on the engine use an 11 volt regulated supply from the PCM. If you have a bad cell in your battery and it only goes as high as 10.3, all the readings from these sensor are erroneous such as cam position'MAP,MAF CPS and a few more. So yes they do run rough with bad info....

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 04:45 AM Thread Starter
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thanks coby7 that must be it. i did not even bother to take a voltage reading before i changed the battery. thanks

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2016, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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well it has been just about a week and no issues. i did take the old battery and slow charge it until i got 1.275 volts per cell and then ran a load test and the battery failed. so getting the new battery was necessary. but i got 10 ears form it and it was expected. lets see how the new battery holds up. thanks coby7 for the helps and the others also. bp.

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