Help with code P0011 - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
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Help with code P0011

Earlier this month my CEL came on so I took it to autozone to get the code checked out and the guy told me it was P0011, told me that the intake camshaft position actuator solenoid needed to be replaced or if i was due for an oil change this could also be a reason for the code popping up which the change engine oil message has just came on as well a few days prior. Well a couple of days later the light actually went off. I took it in for the oil change that weekend and the light comes right back on but again goes off after a few days. It had been about a week with no light and no other symptoms and then this past Sunday it comes back on but with problems this time.The car is "jumpy" when sitting at lights or in park (not so bad when just parked) but the rpms do not move when this is happening however i noticed the car to be running at very low to rpms. It shifts normally but when running over 50 mph it's barely at 2000 and anything under that speed is between 1500 and 2000. When I'm stopped its running barely over 500. Also I have not noticed any weird sounds coming from the car. I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow to get checked out and I'm just wanting to know if anyone has had any experience with this code and what should be expected when I go in. Money is tight right now so I'm hoping it's nothing too extremely costly.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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Oh also forgot to add that earlier this year in April I pulled a P0010 but that went off after a few days as well and hasn't come back since.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 07:47 AM
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If you use conventional oil you cannot wait for the oil meter to tell you it's time to change the oil. The oil life meter is calibrated for synthetic oil and this is what the manual calls for when the engine is equipped with cam actuators. Conventional oils will sludge after 3000 miles (5000Kms) and clog the actuator and make them stick. The only way now is to replace the intake actuator, that should take all of 5 minutes and I will re-post what kind of price you should be expected to pay for the actuator from GMparts giant for example...$33.12

Chevrolet Cobalt 4 Cyl 2.2L ... ; 4-Speed Automatic ... ; Cobalt Level Two (LT) 4 Door GM 12655420 VALVE, Engine Camshaft
GM Part No.: 12655420
VALVE, Engine Camshaft
This part fits the following vehicle options:
Fitting Vehicle Options: A
Your Price: $33.12

http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm...bb480ac5098089

---------- Post added at 11:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:43 AM ----------

Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid FOR Buick Chevy Pontiac 2 0 2 2 2 4L | eBay

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Well that's good to know about the oil! Another question is it safe to drive the car like this? I can't fix it myself but my cousin said he can do it for me I just need to get the part. I'm assuming it would save me money getting him to do it versus taking it to the mechanic but I'd have to wait until this weekend for him to fix it.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 08:58 AM
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It's safe just don't wait to long because you might be dropping raw fuel in your exhaust and cat converters don't like that very much. It is only one bolt and one connector. A little tap and a twist and out it comes. You may also keep in mind that if the intake actuator is sludged up and sticking that the exhaust one might be ready to go if your Cobalt is so equipped, since you never said what year it was between 08-10.

Also if you are going to keep using conventional oil change at 50% oil life.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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It's a 2009 and my cousin actually suggested to replace both. I did look up how to replace it and found some general instructions but nothing I found was really clear on how to remove the engine cover which is the iffy part for me but other than that it did look simple. I did take a look under the hood and was like ehhhh I have no idea where to start lol
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 09:14 AM
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Yeah the engine cover just snaps into place, so you just yank on each corner, front right and rear left.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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Seriously that's so simple, I figured it would be more difficult than that lol Anyways thanks for all your help! I think I may just attempt to do this myself tomorrow!
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2016, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Huge huge huge problem!!! My fiancÚ and I went to change the vavle and it broke off as he was wiggling it out so half of it is still in there! What do we do now??? It looks like it can be pried out but I'm not sure. This has turned into a nightmare
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-24-2016, 04:28 AM
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Wow never seen that happen before it usually just jiggles out. The car will still run without it if you need to bring it to a shop but if you can grab what's left it should come out. Just be carefull not to scratch where the actuator ''O'' ring seats.

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