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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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2008 Cobalt Clicking Before Starting

I have a 2008 Cobalt that has multiple issues. I'll list every issue in case one issue might be linked to another, and what I have done to the car so far.

1. The main problem is sometimes the car will not start. It will click multiple times. Most of the time it will start after a few clicks. The car will start every time with a jump.

2. With the car off, there is a draw of almost 1 amp. Removing two fuses, 1 for radio, 1 for xm, lowers the draw to 400 MA, which still seems like a lot.

3. I noticed that someone put a 50 or 60amp fuse in for the starter. I replaced it with the correct 30amp fuse.

4. Cruise control will sometimes randomly shut off on interstate. After it turns off, I usually can't get it turned back on.

5. Trunk release button is not working.

What's been done:
About a year ago, the ECM and TCM had to be replaced.

The battery is new, checks out 12.4 volts on meter. I can not get a decent reading when checking the battery from the front of the car, only from the battery itself.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 12:43 PM
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400ma is way too much, something is drawing current. Under the drivers door sill there's a clump of wires tied together, I believe they are all brown wires. One is for Brake lights which would explain the loss of cruise, one is for the rear defog, one is for the trunk release .

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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I'll take a look at them. As far as the 400ma goes, I pulled every fuse inside and under the hood except for the bigger ones and can't get the number down.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 04:23 AM
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Definitely your problem, make sure the key is out of the ignition and doors are close while doing this test.

Every minute spent angry is a happy minute lost for ever and ever!!!
Drives 2016 Cocoa Buick Encore 1.4L Turbo auto KL4CJDSB2GB652675
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled a few more fuses today and found that the 350-400mA draw disappeared after removing the BCM2 fuse. I'm not really sure where to go from here since the BCM controls a lot of different things.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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Even with a charged battery, it seems the car won't crank at all now. The battery checks out at 12.56v when I check it from the trunk. Why am I not able to test the battery voltage from the front of the car? The reading I get is like 1 volt and it bounces around. Sometimes I can see 12.5 for a second. The car also would never jump from the front, only from the battery.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 11:22 AM
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Unscrew your boost post (10mm socket) and clean the terminals and re-install making sure it's tight. One of the terminals is the direct connection to the battery so make sure to disconnect battery in trunk first.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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I cleaned both connectors along with the post with some steel wool this morning. Still couldn't read a decent voltage from the front. Which I'd imagine it has to be fine since everything is getting power, it's just weird I can't see that 12 volts though.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 11:57 AM
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Okay then you know it's not the positive side, so check the lug in the trunk where the ground from the battery connects to the body..

Every minute spent angry is a happy minute lost for ever and ever!!!
Drives 2016 Cocoa Buick Encore 1.4L Turbo auto KL4CJDSB2GB652675
Drives 2016 Sunset Orange Trax LT1 1.4L Turbo auto 3GNCJPSB8GL142716

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