08 Cobalt Noise from Front -not Wheel Bearings - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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08 Cobalt Noise from Front -not Wheel Bearings

08 Cobalt Passenger side noise while driving CV moves up and down.
I have a 2008 Cobalt 2.2 Auto Trans ABS 4 stud wheel hubs.
I am looking for any info on my Axle Shaft noise, Axle Shaft Seal, Axle Shaft up and Down play/movement.
I hear grinding/scraping/buzzing/ humming noise coming from the front of the car, while driving.
It gets louder as I go faster. Wheel Bearings turn ok.
On passenger side if I grab the inside CV and move it up and down it moves up and down more
than my other 07 G5 passenger shaft moves. When I jacked it up and pulled both the rotors off
I could hear a noise while turning the passenger hub forward.
After moving the shaft in and out and up and down the scraping/ grinding does not happen any
more. If I put it back together It will surely come back.
I can see the seal where the axle shaft goes into the Transmission is very slightly weaping and
there is fluid all around the seal and the CV shaft but I have never seen a drop on the ground
in my driveway.
It must only come out when its spinning.
I have tried searching my topic using various terms but nothing close to my trouble comes up.
There is a seal kit for this seal on rockauto that shows a copper looking
sleave. Has anyone replaced this seal kit?
Thank You for any replies
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 08:02 PM
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Even if the wheel bearings turn just fine, one of them still could be bad.

What side does it seem like the sound is emanating from?

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1998 Chevrolet Cavalier - Wrecked/Donated
2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT - M62 Supercharger, Ported Throttle Body, 42 lb/hr Injectors, Intense 2.9" Pulley, Cobra Heat Exchanger, SS/TC Exhaust, TTR Engine and Trans Mounts, Trifecta Tune, ZZP Header and Downpipe, '08+ FE5 Struts/Shocks, SSC Springs, FE5 Control Arms, SS/SC Front Swaybar, Powell Hardcore Rear Swaybar, 18" MSR 045s, Dunlop ZIIs, Nightshaded Tails/Side Markers, Shorty Antenna, Black Bowties, Black Grilles, Black Headlights, Dual JL 12" w1v2 Subs, A/D/S Front/Rear Speakers, Pioneer 7" Touchscreen, G85 Recaros, Leather Rear Seats, 160 MPH Cluster.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-31-2017, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
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Smile Axle Shaft and Seal

It sounds like its coming from where the CV shaft goes into the Auto Transmission.
There is some up and down play when I grab the shaft close to the transmission and move it.
I have another Cobalt and a Pontiac G5 and I checked them both
and the passenger side does not move up and down on those cars.
I don't know if the problem is inside the transmission and seal or is it the CV axle?
Is the play the CV splined shaft moving inside the CV joint.
Will a complete right front axle and seal do the job or is there anything inside the
auto transmission needed?
Thanks for any replies
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-31-2017, 05:51 AM
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Well, the reason I ask is because the sound can be a slight red herring.

My car, last year, was making one hell of a speed-dependent thumping noise that would get worse when you were turning, specifically one direction (I can't remember which now), and it definitely sounded like it was coming right from the trans-side of the axle (more-so on the right side of the car). I replaced the right front wheel bearing. No fix. So I ended up replacing the right side axle. No change. Then I replaced the left side axle (with the old one from the other side that I knew to be good). No change.

Ended up replacing the left front wheel bearing - and that solved it.

The axles will always have a little play at the transmission, but it certainly shouldn't be sloppy. If your seal is leaking, that is something that also should be taken care of - but it's possible that it's just a slight weep and not actually "leaking" per se.

1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z - Wrecked/Sold
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier - Wrecked/Donated
2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT - M62 Supercharger, Ported Throttle Body, 42 lb/hr Injectors, Intense 2.9" Pulley, Cobra Heat Exchanger, SS/TC Exhaust, TTR Engine and Trans Mounts, Trifecta Tune, ZZP Header and Downpipe, '08+ FE5 Struts/Shocks, SSC Springs, FE5 Control Arms, SS/SC Front Swaybar, Powell Hardcore Rear Swaybar, 18" MSR 045s, Dunlop ZIIs, Nightshaded Tails/Side Markers, Shorty Antenna, Black Bowties, Black Grilles, Black Headlights, Dual JL 12" w1v2 Subs, A/D/S Front/Rear Speakers, Pioneer 7" Touchscreen, G85 Recaros, Leather Rear Seats, 160 MPH Cluster.
2014 Chevrolet Cruze Diesel - 17" MSR 013s, Black Bowties, Black Tails, UR Rear Lower Bar
1981 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - JVC Ribbon Tweeters, SEAS Mids, Pyle Woofers, Kenwood Tape Deck, Zapco Amp/Equilizer, Ceramic-Coated Longtubes, 2.5" Pypes Stainless Exhaust, Bilstein B6 Shocks, GW U/L Control Arms, Hotchkis Springs Sway Bars, DD HDX Cluster
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-31-2017, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks
I will try changing both the Wheel Bearings first
then I'll put it back together and see what happens.
Has anyone used CBK Bearings from Amazon?
As I get older I have a hard time with where sound is coming from.
Thanks again
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-31-2017, 03:15 PM
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I'm 27 (26 then) and I could barely tell where the sound seemed like it was coming from - and it still wasn't right.

1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z - Wrecked/Sold
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier - Wrecked/Donated
2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT - M62 Supercharger, Ported Throttle Body, 42 lb/hr Injectors, Intense 2.9" Pulley, Cobra Heat Exchanger, SS/TC Exhaust, TTR Engine and Trans Mounts, Trifecta Tune, ZZP Header and Downpipe, '08+ FE5 Struts/Shocks, SSC Springs, FE5 Control Arms, SS/SC Front Swaybar, Powell Hardcore Rear Swaybar, 18" MSR 045s, Dunlop ZIIs, Nightshaded Tails/Side Markers, Shorty Antenna, Black Bowties, Black Grilles, Black Headlights, Dual JL 12" w1v2 Subs, A/D/S Front/Rear Speakers, Pioneer 7" Touchscreen, G85 Recaros, Leather Rear Seats, 160 MPH Cluster.
2014 Chevrolet Cruze Diesel - 17" MSR 013s, Black Bowties, Black Tails, UR Rear Lower Bar
1981 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - JVC Ribbon Tweeters, SEAS Mids, Pyle Woofers, Kenwood Tape Deck, Zapco Amp/Equilizer, Ceramic-Coated Longtubes, 2.5" Pypes Stainless Exhaust, Bilstein B6 Shocks, GW U/L Control Arms, Hotchkis Springs Sway Bars, DD HDX Cluster
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-11-2017, 02:43 PM
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To easily diagnose a wheel bearing take the vehicle for a drive down a road with steep curves and listen for the noise to disappear.
Curve right vehicle weight shifts left if the noise disappears right wheel bearing.
Curve left vehicle weight shifts right if the noise disappears left wheel bearing.
this can also indicate a bad inner CV Joint if you have allot of play in the axles.

Dusty oil seepage past a seal is normal if its wet replace the seal. Always a good idea to replace the seals when replacing axle shafts. but that's just me.

C.V. joints should have almost no up and down movement just enough to be noticed. Allows for outer CV joint to flex.
C.V. joints use a roomy empty parking lot.
hard right popping, clicking, Right outer CV joint
hard left popping, clicking, Left outer CV joint.

Other possibilities.
Warped or damaged rotors / drums, dragging caliper, tire may have shifted belt tires are shot, replace the tires.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-11-2017, 04:15 PM
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Sounds like carrier bearing passenger side.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-08-2017, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Smile Wheel Bearings replaced and all is good

Wheel Bearings replaced and all is good
Getting them of is difficult.
The axle turned out to be fine,also transmission ok.
Weaping is ok from what I have learned
If you are interested in getting wheel bearings off (Hub and all)
look here. Take and old disc/rotor from your car or one that fits and
put it on backwards. Put some big washers on studs.
Put lug nuts back on. I used some eye hooks as didn't have any
washers big enough to fit studs. Make sure lug nuts are tight.
Hit the disc/rotor with a 12 pond sledge hammer.
There you have it. I call it the "Hub Bearing Assembly Buster"
The CBK Hub Bearing Assembly units have been good so far 2 months of
driving, no problems. They have SKF bearings in them.
I will use them again for $90 CAD
If you don't have ABS you can easily take the ABS off
of the assembly. So either assembly can be used if no stock.
See pics if they are still up.
Thanks
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Sorry I can't figure out how to post my pics to this forum.
If I figure it out I will post them as they are very useful!
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