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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Leaking Fuel Line 05 Cobalt

Hello all - new here.

We recently got my wife a new car and I've got her old Cobalt as my commuter car - all seemed well until last week when I started to smell fuel. I see a leak in the fuel line at the retainer clip by the rear drivers wheel.

Dropped it off at the local shop just to see what they'd say - I was quoted over 300 bucks to drop the tank and see what they're dealing with... Pass.

I've read a few old threads on patching these lines with rubber fuel injection tubing and I'm hoping to do that myself. I see many people make it seem quite easy to cut the old lines, however the last hour of laying on the garage floor I cannot figure out how to get enough room to cut them. Any tips or tricks to this? I might be able to get enough room in front of the tire but I'm not sure how I'd cut it as it snakes up by the fuel tank without dropping it. Or are guys patching it in on the back side? Though that still looks like a bugger to access.

It's an old car but it gets much better mileage than my Silverado for commuting so I'm hoping to keep it road worthy.

Any help would be great. Thanks!

Pete
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 11:32 AM
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If it's the main line disconnect from the fuel filter and then clip it as far has you can then you should have plenty of room. This is better done on a hoist of coarse. If it's the return line un-clip it from the retainers and bend it away from the sill so you can cut it. I'm sure a Father-son garage would probably do that for you for less than a hundred bucks but these decent honest places are harder to come by.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 11:35 AM
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Hey Pete I've done both my cars the 06 and the 09 same thing use a small tubing cutter first you might just break the line in the middle in the rusty part so that you can pry it out away from the body a little bit it's a tight squeeze in a bit difficult but it can be done only takes an hour or so make sure you get all the rusty part and I did both the supply line and the return line anywhere from one foot to 5 ft of fuel injection hose with fuel injection clamps
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
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That's for the info, guys! It's the main line right now however the return line looks just as bad at that spot, so I'm guessing I should just patch that as well.

If I try to break it at the rust spot and it gets too bung'd up - can I run rubber hose from the fuel filter to just in front of the wheel? Or is that too far for rubber hose?
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 03:11 PM
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I used 5 feet of hose on one part

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-06-2017, 09:29 AM
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I was able to get more access by dropping the fuel canister from its mount (one bolt and it slides off a tapered clip) plus I unhooked the rubber exhaust mounts and pushed it to the side. I wish I would have used rubber hose instead of 3/8" tubing to replace mine. Bending it to match the old line was a bear! If you free all the clips that hold the fuel and brake lines, you can get more access as well.


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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-07-2017, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Update - The job is done! That's for the tips and info guys. Initially looking at it, I was intimidated that'd I'd end up making stuff worse trying to get it cut etc. Once I dove in it wasn't bad, took a little over an hour I suppose. Car is running and I don't see or smell fuel anymore.

Thanks again for the help, I'm sure I'll be back when the next thing breaks!!

Pete
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