2009 Cobalt LT - Codes P0011 P0013 P0016 - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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2009 Cobalt LT - Codes P0011 P0013 P0016

Iíve got all of these codes popping up, P0011 P0013 and P0016 and I canít figure this out.

I replaced the Exhaust actuator solenoid but no change,

I canít get the crank sensor to change it because they made it resiculoisly difficult to get to,

I tested resistance on cam position sensor and got 1400 ohms but I canít find out if thatís in spec or not,

Then I took off valve cover and inspected timing chain and itís slightly loose but I donít think it could jump gears.

My cobalt is making a slight tapping or knocking noise and when I leave it run for about 5 minutes it starts screeching like a metal to metal noise and sounds horrible when I shut it off.

Any thoughts?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 02:10 PM
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To have an intake and exhaust cam code at the same time with a camshaft correlation almost sounds like a camshaft sensor, but maybe your timing chain has stretched to the point where your cam actuators can't fall in the range anymore or maybe it even jumped a cog. This would cause loss of power, knocking and timing chain shouldn't be loose if your tensioner is good. Do you have first or second design?


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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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I believe I have the first design by the looks of the bolt end. I haven’t taken it out yet. Would it be possible to only need the tensioner? The chain and guides look like they’re in good shape.

*update
I did an oil change and changed the filter(it was very sucked in and bend crooked. Not my doing this is a new purchase)

Now I cleared the codes and the only one that came back was P0014 (Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing Over Advanved).

Keep in mind I didn’t let it run long though because the sound is very, very bad and I don’t want to blow the head and smash valves. So maybe more would have came back I don’t know. I only ran it 3-4 minutes.

---------- Post added at 02:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:25 PM ----------

Something I thought of, maybe the other codes really are gone. They were “Permanent” codes so they would not go away unless the issue that set the codes did. So the only code I have now is P0014.

Honestly everything is normal besides the stutter and hesitation along with the horrifying noise. It fires up on a instantly and I even cranked it by hand to prove that it cranks very easily and smoothly.

Last edited by Airman89; 10-30-2017 at 03:40 PM.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 06:09 PM
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But noise is never good, what type oil did you put in? And maybe you're right if the exhaust actuator is stuck wide open it could be the cause of all...

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Well I did replace that. Is it possible to not get it in all the way or install it wrong somehow? (I’m new to these VVT motors)

*I put in a typical 5w-30. The oil that was in it was horrible. Thick and pure black.

---------- Post added at 07:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:56 PM ----------

Is there anything else that can cause the P0014 code? If itís directly related to the Exhaust Actuator Solenoid then I suppose Iíll take the new one back out and see whatís going on. Maybe I got something down in the hole when I was changing it? I did have to drill out the old one so itís possible...

---------- Post added at 09:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:18 PM ----------

*****After non stop research, I think Iíve found the culprit. The harmonic balancer. Could this cause the timing to be off slightly causing the p0014 code? This would explain the horrific sound, the belt popped off once, everything. Iíll be checking it out in the morning!

Last edited by Airman89; 10-30-2017 at 06:58 PM.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-31-2017, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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---------- Post added at 06:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:27 AM ----------

Is There A way to check timing without starting the engine?
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-31-2017, 07:53 AM
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Yes, but you have to take the valve cover off.


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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-31-2017, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Timing looks good to me. That picture is when #1 cylinder is TDC correct?

I checked the harmonic balancer by firing it up for a 30 seconds and it does wiggle/wobble a bit but I canít tell if thatís the culprit.

I took the new Exhaust acuator spolenoid out and checked for debris. There was a little, some small metal pieces ( probably from me drilling it the old one..) I cleaned it up and cleaned out the port in the head. Now Iím waiting for battery to charge to try and start again.

The screeching noise is getting worse every time I start it. Now itís almost sounding like itís backfiring inside the engine....
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-31-2017, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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I opened up that valve cover again to look at the timing chain. It very hard to make out the colored links but I think I see them. 2 red and one black? Would the black be for the crank and the two reds for the cam shafts? If so, something crazy is going on.

As I rotate the crank clockwise, each time the red marks pass the Cam shafts, they arenít near the marks and their location to the marks on the gears always changes. Every lap around they change. One time the red mark was 2 links away from the mark on the intake gear, and the next time it was 7 links away. How is this possible? It feels tight for the most part unless I really pull on it
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