LCA Loose Cage Nut - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
Problems and Service Talk about any mechanical problems you are having

Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
Forum Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 142
LCA Loose Cage Nut

Replaced both LCA pancake bushings 4 years ago with no problem...4 years later, had one bad bushing and wanted to replace both ball joint on my 12 year old car so I purchased 2 new MOOG LCA's . Passenger side went great but I am now 'stuck' with a loose cage nut on the driver side...tried sticking bolts, screwdrivers, allan keys, etc for a couple hours to lock the nut before giving up...I read you can break the cage off if you remove the steering rack (I replaced it 2 years ago) and remove the stabiliser bar bushing...any other or easier solution out there aside from dropping the frame......THANKS for your input
fl1000 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 04:52 PM
Staff Alumni
 
money_man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Halifax, N.S
Posts: 3,127
Can't drop the frame with that bolt in. That's the catch. Is your car manual or automatic? On my manual 05 cobalt I removed the rear mount and cut a little piece of metal where the nut is so that I could bend it down enough I slid what I remember correctly was a 1" wrench in. May have been 1 1/16" wrench. The nut isn't really a nut that you're thinking, it's actually a piece of 1/4" steel drilled and threaded and rectangular in shape. After this I put the air gun to it and zipped the nut off. Normally this happens when the bolt is seized into the sleeve of the control arm bushing so when you zip the bolts back in coat the bolt in grease to prevent this next time (not the threads). I have heard people cutting their drivers floors out but I'm not into that.

2009 Ford Escape Limited - 3.0L, 6 speed auto, 4x4, 25/33 city/hwy imp mpg.
2017 F150 XLT-XTR - 5.0L, 4x4, 3.55's, E-locker, xtr chrome package, fx4 off-road package.
20/25 imp mpg
money_man is offline  
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 04:53 PM
Staff Alumni
 
money_man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Halifax, N.S
Posts: 3,127
I shoould also say I own a hoist so I'm doing this from under the car. It would be a horrible job to do if you couldn't get under the vehicle.

2009 Ford Escape Limited - 3.0L, 6 speed auto, 4x4, 25/33 city/hwy imp mpg.
2017 F150 XLT-XTR - 5.0L, 4x4, 3.55's, E-locker, xtr chrome package, fx4 off-road package.
20/25 imp mpg
money_man is offline  
 
post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
Forum Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 142
2006,auto with a 2.2l and its on jack stands
fl1000 is offline  
post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 06:31 PM
Staff Alumni
 
money_man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Halifax, N.S
Posts: 3,127
Auto will be more difficult because you don't have the room I had with a manual transmission. If you have a welder and a mirror you may be able to weld the nut back down. I know it was insanely closed in when mine broke. I'm thinking removing that rack may be the only way unless you want to cut the drivers floor and weld it back up again. If I cut the floor I would be welding that nut to the body of the car so it never moved again.

2009 Ford Escape Limited - 3.0L, 6 speed auto, 4x4, 25/33 city/hwy imp mpg.
2017 F150 XLT-XTR - 5.0L, 4x4, 3.55's, E-locker, xtr chrome package, fx4 off-road package.
20/25 imp mpg
money_man is offline  
post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 07:11 PM
Cobalt Master
 
rrob5382's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: MI
Posts: 1,516
Having to cut the floor should always be a last resort.. I've had to do it once before to swap subframe on a malibu and it's not fun cutting into the floor. If you have to, at least take your time and make sure you don't cut into the structure of the car
rrob5382 is offline  
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
Forum Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 142
I'll remove the steering rack and see if it helps in removing the cage and eventually the STUPID nut !!!!!!!!!!
fl1000 is offline  
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
Forum Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 142
Well......after removing the steering rack and the L/H side stab bar bushing, I was able to partially destroy the cage with a pair of needle nose vise grip pliers and fit a 1 inch wrench over that rectangular nut and remove the control arm then re-install the new one...while I was at it, I replaced the two outer ti-rod ends because they had blown grease cups...going for an alignment Wednesday.
fl1000 is offline  
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-15-2018, 01:46 PM
Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 40
Well done. The struggle is worth it.
theroadvirus is offline  
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-15-2018, 03:34 PM
Staff Alumni
 
money_man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Halifax, N.S
Posts: 3,127
Congrats man. It's a great feeling to solve an issue like that but it's amazingly frustrating to have to deal with that stupid engineering. There's no reason it had to be done like that. Worst part is you may need to do it again in a year.

2009 Ford Escape Limited - 3.0L, 6 speed auto, 4x4, 25/33 city/hwy imp mpg.
2017 F150 XLT-XTR - 5.0L, 4x4, 3.55's, E-locker, xtr chrome package, fx4 off-road package.
20/25 imp mpg
money_man is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Closed Thread

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome