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Problems and Service Talk about any mechanical problems you are having

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-26-2018, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Wheel Bearing

Hi, I have a 2007 Chevy Cobalt with an automatic transmission. Several days ago I began to back up and once I went about the length of the vehicle it stopped as though I hit a brick wall. {I actually thought I had hit another vehicle.} I eased forward about a car length and it suddenly stopped again. I continued to do this for about four times before the vehicle finally backed up as it should. I drove a few miles home and everything was working fine. Once I was in my driveway I attempted to back up but it suddenly stopped again. I lifted the front end of the vehicle off the ground, cranked the engine and put it in drive. The wheels turned but there was a roaring sound coming from the front end. I can't tell if it's coming from the transmission or the wheel area. My neighbor came over and he couldn't determine where the sound was coming from either. It seems to be too loud to be coming from inside the transmission. I lowered the car and tried to back up but each time it would suddenly stop however, once I lifted the front end a second time the wheels turned fine but still roared. I replaced the cv axle but had no improvement. The only other two possibilities that I know of is a wheel bearing or the transmission is bad. I'm hoping the wheel bearing is failing and the weight of the vehicle is causing it to lock up. What is the best way to test the wheel bearing or does anyone have any advice as what the problem could be? Thanks
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-26-2018, 06:29 PM
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I would be looking at the brake caliperWhen you jack it up and run the wheels and it's screeching 15 or 30 seconds turn it off and feel the wheels to see if one wheel is hotter than the other that would indicate a stuck caliper
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-27-2018, 05:38 AM
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While lifted and wheels turning, if you don't have a mechanic's stethoscope take a long screwdriver and apply the shank to the knuckle where the bearing sits and the handle to your ear, if it's the bearing you'll hear the difference from side to side.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-27-2018, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses. I'm working seven days a week but will check it out tomorrow evening after work, following the advice you both have given.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-29-2018, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Wheel Bearing

Sorry for not getting back with you guys sooner but I am having so much bad luck that I don't know what to do. The cobalt still isn't going, my 4 runner that I just put a rebuilt engine in lasted about 1000 miles before blowing the head gasket. I got that repaired and now at 12,000 miles the engine is making a terrible noise and this is just getting started with my problems but I know everyone don't want to hear all the whining so back to the Cobalt. After reading your messages I raised the front tires off the ground and now they don't turn but about 1/8 of a turn before locking up. This happens in forward and reverse. You can have the engine running, transmission in drive and rotate the tires by hand with no problem but when you press the accelerator the wheels lock up. I mentioned in a previous post that I had changed the cv axle on the drivers side and the keeper wasn't on the end of the axle that goes into the transmission. The keeper still hasn't been located and i'm thinking it has moved around causing things to lock up. Do I need to pull the cv axle out again and look for the keeper or has the keeper found it's way into the transmission? When the axle was removed before I tried to look into the housing for the keeper but didn't see anything and I also ran a magnet inside the housing with no luck. Anyone have any advice on where to start? I just noticed that when the automatic transmission [front wheel drive] is placed in park, the front wheels can still be turned by hand. Is this due to the fact that both front wheels are off the ground or is this part of my problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Last edited by Poppie51; 07-29-2018 at 11:36 AM. Reason: add information
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-29-2018, 01:31 PM
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Yes, in park when lifted off the ground wheels should spin freely, one forward and one backward. If you want the wheels to spin in drive I believe you have to switch traction control "OFF".

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-29-2018, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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When I was working on this car before, the wheels would turn when the engine was running and the transmission in drive.I'm working on this vehicle by myself and can not tell where the noise is coming from while i'm inside the vehicle. The noise only last for a second when the transmission is placed in gear. If I remove both cv axles could I start the engine and place the transmission in gear to be sure the noise isn't coming from one of the cv axles? Or remove them one at a time to possibly save a little work if it straightens out with the first axle removed. I know this is a little trouble however.the axles on the car can be removed in just a few minutes while only removing 4 or 5 bolts.

---------- Post added at 05:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:56 PM ----------

I just removed the speed sensor to see if I could see anything through the opening and when I pulled the sensor out it had metal shavings attached to it. I can see the gear inside the transmission and it looks as though the metal may have come from it but all the teeth looks about the same so maybe it was made this way. It may also be the axle keeper that has been ground up between the gears. No matter where the metal came from it can't be good. It looks like I may be replacing the entire transmission. Any suggestions?

Last edited by Poppie51; 07-29-2018 at 03:02 PM.
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