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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-20-2009, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Front Sway Bar Install

Hey guys, I purchased a eibach front sway bar and I am getting ready for the install. My buddy looked it up in the dealer manual and it said that I have to remove the steering rack and the tranny mount to get the front sway bar in. Is this true? did you guys really have to do all this just to get a sway bar in? any suggestions to make it easier? thanks

2007 LS Cobalt/ 5 speed
Tsudo Cat-Back
Injen CAI Silver
DC Sports CS-1 Strut Tower Bar
Eibach Sportline springs
Eibach 29mm Front Sway Bar
Eibach 25mm Rear Sway Bar
Moog Sway Bar Links
Konig 17in light weight wheels-17lbs each
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-20-2009, 04:42 PM
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Don't have to remove steering rack at all. Remove wheels and unbolt bar from enlinks and remove clamps and bushings. Also remove rear trany mount and remove bar from left to right wheelewll. Install the new bar the same way rotating it to make sure it goes under tie rod ends. Some guys remove the downpipe for easier accessibility, but I did not and everthing went in ok for me. I installed a SS/SC front swaybar (FE5) 24mm sway bar on my 2.2L LS.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-20-2009, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 58gearhead View Post
Don't have to remove steering rack at all. Remove wheels and unbolt bar from enlinks and remove clamps and bushings. Also remove rear trany mount and remove bar from left to right wheelewll. Install the new bar the same way rotating it to make sure it goes under tie rod ends. Some guys remove the downpipe for easier accessibility, but I did not and everthing went in ok for me. I installed a SS/SC front swaybar (FE5) 24mm sway bar on my 2.2L LS.
What parts did you need to make the swap? I plan on doing this soon!



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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-25-2009, 01:03 PM
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This is how I did it. Almost the same as the instructions. But I used a scissor jack to lower the sub-frame. They tell you to use a hoist and screw jack, but I didn't have access to either. I put a hydraulic jack about 1/2 an inch front the sub-frame in the front just to be safe.

Remove the wheels, remove bolts from endlinks. Set scissor jack directly beside the diamond shaped bolts. sub-frame. Remove the three bolts that hold the rear motor mount to the sub-frame (looks like a diamond). Remove 2 rear sub-frame bolts. Loosen front 2 sub-frame bolts (to allow the back to drop).

Lower the back of the sub-frame with the scissor jack a little and then entirely loosen the 2 steering rack bolts. It tells you to remove the steering rack bolts, but they won't come out because they're so long. Remove the D-clamps and bushing off the OE sway bar. Continue to lower the sub-frame until it slides out the rear. Then do everything in reverse.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-25-2009, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks very much for all your imputs. The install went very well. My buddy let me use his lift in his shop so I had the front and rear installed in less than 3 hrs total. I absolutly love the sway bars, they were a big upgrade. There is a huge difference and feel to the car.

2007 LS Cobalt/ 5 speed
Tsudo Cat-Back
Injen CAI Silver
DC Sports CS-1 Strut Tower Bar
Eibach Sportline springs
Eibach 29mm Front Sway Bar
Eibach 25mm Rear Sway Bar
Moog Sway Bar Links
Konig 17in light weight wheels-17lbs each
225/45/17 Kuhmo Ecsta AST
Dojo weighted shift knob
5% tint
Debadged
Blacked out GM option front grill
08 Kicker Comp 12in/ 08 Lightning 150.2 amp
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
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What parts did you need to make the swap? I plan on doing this soon!
Me too. I'm curious.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 03:34 PM
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The only things you need is the bar and bushings. I bought the Eibach so the bushings were included. You can't use the old bushings, at least not with the Eibach.

The d-clamps are already on the car, they're a little harder to screw back in because of the bushings being larger for the Eibach than the stock.

The screws to connect it to the endlinks (or whatever they're called) are the same ones that are already on the car.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 08:06 PM
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Hows it handling ?



Mod's So Far: AEM CAI, C.A. Header, 2.50 Magnaflow Catback Exhaust , ZZP Catless Downpipe, DC Carbon Strut Bar, Dropped on Progress Springs. Tinted, Fully Debadged, Custom front SS bumper,2 Audiobahn 10" w/JL amp, Lower Billett Grille, Sengen 18 x 8 rims wrapped in Capitol Sport UHP 225/40/18.

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-27-2009, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
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Chester- The handling is absolutly nuts. Do you remember the instant feeling you got when you went for a drive once you put in your stiffer lowering springs on? That huge difference in stiffness and improved handling? Well these bars made me feel that same way all over again once I added the sway bars to my sportlines! I can not even get the car to lean at all and trust me...I tried. These sway bars are worth every penny, and people driving behind you can blaintnly see the obnoxious red rear sway bar at stop lights and such. I drove my buddys car and followed him while he drove my car so I could see what he was raving about, and its true u can openly see the whole rear sway bar from the back....I love it! The only thing I suggest to anybody doing this mod is to invest in a set of aftermarket sway bar links to replace to oem ones that you would normally bolt back up during the install. There is no reason to have a great huge front sway bar like this and then have weak pitifull factory links. Plus its easier to just cut the oem ones off when doing the install instead of trying to hold the clip and get the bolts off. I bough a set of Moog sway bar links to replace the oem ones. They listed at $38.99 a piece at advance auto. The shaft is about 30-40% bigger on the Moog's than the oem's, The joints/knuckles are much bigger and also greasable. This makes a big difference because now you have the luxury of pumping them with high end synthetic grease. Any way I highly suggest you to upgrade/buy performance links before doing the job. Its pointless to have a huge sway bar and have skinny, small knuckle, non greasable links. They will just break due to the added stress within a couple thousand miles any way.

2007 LS Cobalt/ 5 speed
Tsudo Cat-Back
Injen CAI Silver
DC Sports CS-1 Strut Tower Bar
Eibach Sportline springs
Eibach 29mm Front Sway Bar
Eibach 25mm Rear Sway Bar
Moog Sway Bar Links
Konig 17in light weight wheels-17lbs each
225/45/17 Kuhmo Ecsta AST
Dojo weighted shift knob
5% tint
Debadged
Blacked out GM option front grill
08 Kicker Comp 12in/ 08 Lightning 150.2 amp
07ls sport is offline  
post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-27-2009, 04:08 AM
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1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z - Wrecked/Sold
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier - Wrecked/Donated
2007 Chevrolet Cobalt LT - M62 Supercharger, Ported Throttle Body, 42 lb/hr Injectors, Intense 2.9" Pulley, Cobra Heat Exchanger, SS/TC Exhaust, TTR Engine and Trans Mounts, Trifecta Tune, ZZP Header and Downpipe, '08+ FE5 Struts/Shocks, SSC Springs, FE5 Control Arms, SS/SC Front Swaybar, Powell Hardcore Rear Swaybar, 18" MSR 045s, Dunlop ZIIs, Nightshaded Tails/Side Markers, Shorty Antenna, Black Bowties, Black Grilles, Black Headlights, Dual JL 12" w1v2 Subs, A/D/S Front/Rear Speakers, Pioneer 7" Touchscreen, G85 Recaros, Leather Rear Seats, 160 MPH Cluster.
2014 Chevrolet Cruze Diesel - 17" MSR 013s, Black Bowties, UR Rear Lower Bar
1981 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - JVC Ribbon Tweeters, SEAS Mids, Pyle Woofers, Kenwood Tape Deck, Zapco Amp/Equilizer, Ceramic-Coated Longtubes, 2.5" Pypes Stainless Exhaust, Bilstein B6 Shocks, GW U/L Control Arms, Hotchkis Springs Sway Bars, DD HDX Cluster
2017 Chevrolet Volt LT - Black Bowties
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