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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Bad CV Axles???

It's been a while since the last time I was on here and several misfortunate events have left me in a bind and all of them have to do with the CVs.

After lowering my car on dropzones, my stock cv axle went bad on the driver side. I thought, "no big deal it was probably coincidental". After replacing that axle, a second one went bad within a couple of months.

The outer boot is not breaking it is only slipping off of the axle but it will not stay. The axle looks crooked or something and it's only on the drivers side. I have no idea why...

I'm riding on my third axle and it's probably going bad as I type this up lol.
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks!

Last edited by BlackLS Street; 03-06-2011 at 05:44 PM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 12:57 PM
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samething is happening to me, and i cant figure it out. im starting to think its a wheel bearing or both

<img src=http://i51.tinypic.com/154yqon.jpg border=0 alt= />
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2011, 07:17 AM
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Whenever you change the geometry of the driveline, you run the risk of those componenet going bad quicker. And even though good parts were used, there is still the chance of parts going bad. You must make sure the CV shafts are not binding and are in as straight a line as possible.
The same thing happens in trucks and SUV's when they use the cheap lift kits(blocks on the springs), the shops or the dealers never "clock" the rear axle to get the driveshaft back in line, end result, the u-joint snap like crazy. Especially when there is a load placed upon them during acceleration or towing.
Same thing happens on cars, if the CV shaft is not in a generally straight line, the stress of accelration, even minor, can cause the parts to fail much quicker.



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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Is there any way I can fix this problem and keep the lowering springs? Or will I have to put back on stocks?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 06:44 PM
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ask drift. if anyone would know about this he would


Nitrous is like a hot girl with an STD, you always want to hit it but are afraid of the consequences.
I purposely down shift when i pass a prius so they can hear me hurting the environment.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Dear God you're probably right lol.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Bump for more help/solutions...
Need this fixed this week!
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 06:42 PM
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Check the vendors or online, someone sells CV shafts that can handle up to 600-700 HP. Those may be what you need to keep them from snapping.



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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finnscobalt View Post
Whenever you change the geometry of the driveline, you run the risk of those componenet going bad quicker. And even though good parts were used, there is still the chance of parts going bad. You must make sure the CV shafts are not binding and are in as straight a line as possible.
The same thing happens in trucks and SUV's when they use the cheap lift kits(blocks on the springs), the shops or the dealers never "clock" the rear axle to get the driveshaft back in line, end result, the u-joint snap like crazy. Especially when there is a load placed upon them during acceleration or towing.
Same thing happens on cars, if the CV shaft is not in a generally straight line, the stress of accelration, even minor, can cause the parts to fail much quicker.
If they are not in a straight line, then is there a way to fix this problem?
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 08:25 PM
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Do not know how to do that on front wheel drive vehicles. Need to find someone who has done lowering to find out how. All I know is the CV shafts are the weakest form of any drivetrain, even on military Hummers. I know, I snapped more than my share. In fact my next truck I am looking at the 4 wheel drive Dodge or Ford 3/4 tons and above since they have solid front axles.



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