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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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Rear Brake Adjustment?

Dealer looked the car over when they confirmed it needs a passenger's side front wheel bearing. I know that it's getting close to front brake time. They noted that (rotors and pad - $384.00 - nope). He also said the rear brakes need to be cleaned and adjusted. They are just freewheeling (his word ). I've worked on a lot of disk brakes but never drums. From what I've found, it looks like the rears are self adjusting. Is this true? If not, how do you adjust them?That cleaning/adjustment quote was probably blowing out the dust then a 10 second adjustment for 79.99



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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 06:33 AM
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Find a clear open area like a driveway or a low traffic parking lot. Drive the car in reverse, going faster than you normally would. Then slam on the brakes. The spur gear will click and adjust your drums. I didn't believe it either the first time I heard it, but trust me, it works!

As for cleaning, it's easy. Buy a can of brake cleaner, jack up the car, remove the wheel and drum cover, and spray. Be generous, and make sure you're in an open, ventilated area as the fumes can be strong. You could apply some brake grease to certain key spots on the back plate to ensure the shoes don't rub up and jam (Avoid dropping grease on the friction material) After that's done, give a light sanding on the brake linings, reassemble, and call it a day. Simple as pie, and cheaper too.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plain Jane View Post
Find a clear open area like a driveway or a low traffic parking lot. Drive the car in reverse, going faster than you normally would. Then slam on the brakes. The spur gear will click and adjust your drums. I didn't believe it either the first time I heard it, but trust me, it works!

As for cleaning, it's easy. Buy a can of brake cleaner, jack up the car, remove the wheel and drum cover, and spray. Be generous, and make sure you're in an open, ventilated area as the fumes can be strong. You could apply some brake grease to certain key spots on the back plate to ensure the shoes don't rub up and jam (Avoid dropping grease on the friction material) After that's done, give a light sanding on the brake linings, reassemble, and call it a day. Simple as pie, and cheaper too.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 09:04 AM
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Now.....I did exactly that.

On reassembly, I got a VERY heavy shake in the rear brakes that was not there before. At 25+ mph, literally awful getting off the highway. Could i have warped mine by smacking them with a metal hammer? First time they have been off the car 95k miles.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info! I'll give that a try. I doubt I'll notice if it actually did anything or not. And of course, I tend to be a little skeptical with dealership service suggestions. I know they are trying to increase their average ticket.



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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breds2k View Post
Now.....I did exactly that.

On reassembly, I got a VERY heavy shake in the rear brakes that was not there before. At 25+ mph, literally awful getting off the highway. Could i have warped mine by smacking them with a metal hammer? First time they have been off the car 95k miles.
if you hit them too hard....

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breds2k View Post
Now.....I did exactly that.

On reassembly, I got a VERY heavy shake in the rear brakes that was not there before. At 25+ mph, literally awful getting off the highway. Could i have warped mine by smacking them with a metal hammer? First time they have been off the car 95k miles.
drums are out of round, they should wear in eventually though, depending on how bad
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