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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 01:04 AM Thread Starter
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Lower Control Arm Bolt

I'm replacing my passenger side control arm. When I got to the main large bolt in the back, I started loosening it but it won't come out. It just keeps spinning. Wtf? Lol
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 04:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slobalt 07 View Post
I'm replacing my passenger side control arm. When I got to the main large bolt in the back, I started loosening it but it won't come out. It just keeps spinning. Wtf? Lol
Its a looooooooong bolt. Just keep spinning

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 04:48 AM
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That's what she said :D
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 05:59 AM
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You need to drop the sub frame, only easy solution. Take out the space to go to the link between ss and .net
http://www.cobaltss .net/forums/suspension-67/powells-take-replacing-bad-control-arm-bushings-301627/

I had mine replaced with Powell's CAB's and I was lucky that the bolt came right out (actually did it in Powell's garage, so mainly he did it).

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 06:20 AM
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You do not need to drop the whole subframe. Ive done this job probably 7 times now and ive never had to remove anymore bolts than the vertical, 2 horizontal and the ball joint to remove and replace this thing.

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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 08:01 AM
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We're probably not talking about the same bolt then. Did you look at the link banker? I know a local that had to drop the subframe to get that same bolt out. Or you haven't had one get stuck and break on you.

2009 Cobalt LS XFE (F23) Victory Red
YYZ V.3 Springs, Koni shocks/struts, Powell XXX rear swaybar, Brembo brake swap, 5 lug conversion, Ion Redline wheels, SS/SC interior swap including power conversion, K&N intake, Trifecta tune, Ark Performance N-II catback, Ark shorty antenna, SS body kit, Powell F23 rotated mount, LNF rear mount, Powell CABs
Soon to come- EFR 6758 turbo kit and make Retro Headlights.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 08:25 AM
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Same bolt. I guess ive just used enough heat and lube to get it out every time

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 08:35 AM
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Powell uses the same thing but only once the entire subframe is out and easier to work on. Something with using heat there not being recommended.

2009 Cobalt LS XFE (F23) Victory Red
YYZ V.3 Springs, Koni shocks/struts, Powell XXX rear swaybar, Brembo brake swap, 5 lug conversion, Ion Redline wheels, SS/SC interior swap including power conversion, K&N intake, Trifecta tune, Ark Performance N-II catback, Ark shorty antenna, SS body kit, Powell F23 rotated mount, LNF rear mount, Powell CABs
Soon to come- EFR 6758 turbo kit and make Retro Headlights.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 08:38 AM
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I have fe5 control arms and powell cabs. I only put heat on the head of the bolt if needed. Never had to drop the subframe. Ive bent it down before to get the control arm out and in, but never removed subframe for it

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 08:40 AM
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I'm not saying your wrong I'm just telling him what Powell recommends and giving him a link to the issue. I have that exact same setup for control arms, T CABS Trailing and L CABS Leading. With where they are you could potentially damage other parts by using heat (his specific example was the old bushing starting on fire).

2009 Cobalt LS XFE (F23) Victory Red
YYZ V.3 Springs, Koni shocks/struts, Powell XXX rear swaybar, Brembo brake swap, 5 lug conversion, Ion Redline wheels, SS/SC interior swap including power conversion, K&N intake, Trifecta tune, Ark Performance N-II catback, Ark shorty antenna, SS body kit, Powell F23 rotated mount, LNF rear mount, Powell CABs
Soon to come- EFR 6758 turbo kit and make Retro Headlights.

Last edited by andrewcarr1993; 01-08-2014 at 08:43 AM.
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