Chevy Cobalt Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

Mixing Brands

2K views 10 replies 3 participants last post by  alexxxx89 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

So I am planning on replacing the front struts on my 06 Ls (97k on the clock) with a set of Raybestos Prem. Grade Strut and Spring Assemblies (7172179L and R). I got them on RockAuto for 113.xx each, and I am seeing that RA does not sell (because Raybestos does not make) matching rear shock absorbers. I am thinking of replacing the rears with ACDelco Premium Gas Charged s/a's, (p# 530456 replacing p#19295558). Any word on how the ride quality will be with these two different brands?

Also, I am not sure what else to replace. Any suggestions?
 
#2 · (Edited)
Why are you replacing the struts to begin with? Were you told they are blown or leaking?

Also the front struts from Raybestos are listed as original ride quality. Same with the rear shock absorbers. Ride quality should be about how it was when the car came off the lot.
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
For a couple reasons. My wife was hit in the right rear quarter panel while turning by someone who ran a light (not totally relevant, but w.e-they did the body work instead of totaling the car). And driving around Ft. Campbell was absolutely ferocious on the suspension (all 4 wheels bent in a year's time). There is a lot of shaking and shimmying at highway speeds, and there is a loud squealing coming from the front suspension while turning at low speeds. In addition, the wheel shakes HARD while braking (the rotors are only 18 months old, with maybe 15k put on them) so I am going to replace the brake rotors and caliper hardware to see if the wheel shaking while braking.I figured I would start with struts after getting the suspension inspected and replacing what I can myself (labor rates in South Florida are nuts!) and getting done professionally what I must. The car is in rough shape.

Also, if the present struts are fine, I can just return them.
 
#4 ·
sound like you need an alignment and balancing as well. Make sure to check your ball joints, inner tie rods and tie rod ends... that could also be part of the cause of the shimmying and shaking.

I hear ya on the labor rates. Most of the suspension stuff can be done pretty easily. I do most of my work as well, and so do a lot of the other on the forum.
 
#5 · (Edited)
My biggest concerns with doing the suspension work in my driveway are things that require a press, or other heavy equipment that I do not have access to. I am happy to see that they sell complete control arms.

On that note, I'm taking it to the PepBoys around the corner for a suspension check tomorrow. This way I will have some idea of what needs replacing. I refuse to pay a $145 dealership diagnostic fee.
 
#6 ·
Good news, took the Ls to Pep Boys, all the suspension components checked out fine. He put the car on the lift and let me look myself. I checked the struts (after consulting the forums) and didnt find any leaking oil, ball joints are thick and soft still, wheel didnt shift when rocked back and forth. Only problem seems to be the centering rings for the cheap Tire Rack rims I have on are loose, and the rotors seem to be out of balance (so to speak. I dont like to use the term "warped"). They hooked me up great rotating the tires and rebalancing them. Even switched to sticky weights so they dont rub against the suspension components like the clip on ones were (source of the squealing at low speed turns).

Im going to find a way to secure the rings better (maybe disc brake quiet?) and replace the pads/rotors (using POWER STOP Part # KOE1604 1-Click; Incl. 10.08 in. OE Replacement Rotors w/Z16 Ceramic Scorched Pads from RockAuto- $85 bucks woot!

And if the shaking and shimmying is still present after I replace the rotors (after checking LRO [Im getting a clamping dial indicator from Harbor Freight] and fixing if required), replace all the hardware and guide pins, and bed-in the pads (according to Power Stop's instructions) I am going to look into replacing the hubs- 86 bucks each for the raybestos Pro Grade hub + hardware.

Input?
 
#8 ·
Kinda random I guess... but the rotors are not specific to each side, try swapping them. Also see if you can find a shop that will do rotoe turning (resurfacing). It may be a an even cheaper way to fix the shimmying.
 
#9 ·
Turning the rotors at the only place near me that does it is 25/per, so it it more cost effective to buy new.

That being said, I had to check for squealing again (wife is paranoid), so I removed the driverside wheel- lo and behold, it looks like this:



I want to note that this is an after picture, but the point remains.

This is how it should be oriented:



The rotor just hangs there on the hub when the tire is off. The inner edge of the rotor hat is beveled (I should have taken a picture) so I am guessing that the Budget Brakes that performed the rotor/pad job 18 months ago used POS parts that dont even fit right. BullSH!t. The pads, while they have a ton of meat left on them, separated from the shims. I used disc brake quiet goop to "glue" the two together and disc brake quiet spray on top as normal.

The new rotors, pads, guide pins, and rubber coated hardware will arrive sometime this week, so I just need the car to stay together for a while longer. Never letting a chain shop do any work ever again.
 
#10 ·
That's just how the rotors sit on our cars. From the factory there is a tiny ass clip that kinda he's it, but it's not required.

Also your rotor doesn't look to bad....

---------- Post added at 10:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:48 PM ----------

If I pulled my wheel off it looks about the same.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top