Front Suspension Overhaul - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
Suspension/Wheels/Brakes/Tires Talk about Chevy Cobalt Suspension, Brakes, Wheels, and Tires here
Sponsored by:

Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
Newcomer
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 8
Front Suspension Overhaul

Hey. I just signed up here after reading the DIY guide on wheel hub replacement, seems like a great forum for technical discussion.

We've got a 2006 Cobalt LS that we bought new and it's been our daily driver/road trip workhorse since then. We've got about 165,000 miles on it and we've been very happy with how little unscheduled maintenance it's required (even the OEM battery lasted until September 2013) but now that we've got our tax return it's time to stop ignoring the recent front-end noises that have developed.

We're on the original set of wheel bearings and the right one appears to be making substantial noise at highway speed. I was just going to replace both at once since they both have 165,000 miles on them, but is there anything else I should service or replace while I've got the wheels off? I did the brakes last year and plan on replacing the struts and sway bar bushings, but what else should I do since we've got the spare cash for it right now? Everything else is still original OEM.

Last edited by displacer; 03-14-2014 at 01:08 PM.
displacer is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 01:08 PM
YourCobalt of the Quarter Winner
YourCobalt of the Month Winner


 
BankerBalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Eagan MN
Posts: 4,647
Garage
Vertical control arm bushings. Make sure to do strut mounts when you replace the struts. Would be a good idea to replace rear shocks while youre at it. Have you replaced the timing components yet?

Forged L61 BW S252 Turbocharged Showoff Thread
BankerBalt is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
Newcomer
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by BankerBalt View Post
Vertical control arm bushings. Make sure to do strut mounts when you replace the struts. Would be a good idea to replace rear shocks while youre at it. Have you replaced the timing components yet?
Thanks- and nope, original timing components. That's on my to-do list after I get the suspension stuff out of the way, I need to get it in for inspection and the recall notice I got last year before the end of the month. We're not driving it right now thanks to the wheel bearing issue and won't again until I replace the timing components (we have a Camry and two Jeeps to drive in the meantime,) but the suspension comes first right now so I can get it the four miles down the road to the shop to take care of the other stuff.

Last edited by displacer; 03-14-2014 at 01:42 PM.
displacer is offline  
 
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 01:29 PM
Veteran
 
Batmobile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Western Maryland
Posts: 658
Garage
Wow, I'm impressed your wheel bearings lasted so long. When you replace the struts and sway bar bushings, be sure to check the end links.
Batmobile is offline  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 02:04 PM
YourCobalt of the Quarter Winner
YourCobalt of the Month Winner


 
BankerBalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Eagan MN
Posts: 4,647
Garage
Totally forgot about endlinks haha

Forged L61 BW S252 Turbocharged Showoff Thread
BankerBalt is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
Newcomer
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 8
Just hit up Rockauto and ordered rear shocks, front strut/mount assemblies, sway bar links and bushings, and Timken wheel hub assemblies. Not terrible dollar-wise considering the 5% off code I found combined with the fact the shocks and struts have a $90 rebate deal going on right now. Timing system (and maybe end links) the paycheck after that, I guess
displacer is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 05:49 PM
Super Moderator
YourCobalt.com Premium Member


 
Coby7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Magnetic Hill, New-Brunswick
Posts: 11,820
Garage
Swaybar links are the end-links.

---------- Post added at 08:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:42 PM ----------

Did you check your lower control arm rear bushings? If you get like a metal to metal knocking coming from the front I'd look at these. Get the MOOG K200792 from rockauto if they are coming apart.

---------- Post added at 08:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:45 PM ----------

Also saddle bushings...

https://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/mai...bump-bump.html

Every minute spent angry is a happy minute lost for ever and ever!!!
Drives 2016 Cocoa Buick Encore 1.4L Turbo auto KL4CJDSB2GB652675
Drives 2016 Sunset Orange Trax LT1 1.4L Turbo auto 3GNCJPSB8GL142716

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly
Coby7 is offline  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
Newcomer
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coby7 View Post
Swaybar links are the end-links.


Whoops, I assumed they meant tie rod ends for some reason rather than sway bar links. Those are still original too so I need to check them out as well I guess, but I already ordered replacement end links since from what I've read at 165,000 miles it's pretty much a sure thing they will need replaced

Quote:
Did you check your lower control arm rear bushings? If you get like a metal to metal knocking coming from the front I'd look at these. Get the MOOG K200792 from rockauto if they are coming apart.
Not yet but I'm going to check them when I get the wheels off. I haven't poked around in there much yet because my town's building inspector/code enforcement jerk is some old guy who, now that the construction and sale of houses are stagnant, spends most of his time harassing people about "derelict vehicles" if you so much as pop your hood to change your oil. God forbid you get something up on jackstands during the week when he's on duty, it's like the Spanish Inquisition with that guy. I'm gonna rip into it next weekend when I can escape his gaze, if it looks like a problem I'll order replacements when I order my timing kit

Saddle bushings are the sway bar to subframe bushings, right? ... right?? If so then I already ordered replacements for those guys, too.

If you can't tell suspension component nomenclature wasn't my strongest subject in school. I'm an bizjet mechanic/avionics tech by trade so I'm mechanically inclined, used to making new repairs from just manuals, and aware of good maintenance practices but I'm still learning cars as I go. The only kind of suspensions I'm very familiar with is comprised of three oleo struts and direct hydraulic steering on a single nosewheel, so far this is one of the few cases I've found where working on car is a step up in complexity from what I'm used to.

Last edited by displacer; 03-14-2014 at 06:51 PM.
displacer is offline  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 07:21 PM
Initiate
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 46
I would recommend changing the cv/drive axle nut too, whenever you have to remove it. I think so because it is an important piece and it is cheap, there is no safety pin to hold it in place like older cars have on the axles to keep it from coming off and especially if your wheel bearings are making noise, which causes vibrations, which probably may have already loosened the nut some. What does your drive belt look like also, I would look for cracks and tears on it? Do your cv/drive axle boots look good, how long has it been since you changed out your cv/drive axle if ever, now may be a good time imo, if you got the money. Also, if you change the cv/drive axle out change the seals out that sit in the transmission that your axles fit into. Are you brake/wheel rotors in good shape? I would check out there condition while I had the parts off for the wheel. Somebody may have mentioned this but you might want to check for control arm ball joint play and also make sure the ball joint rubber cover isn't deteriorated in addition to the control arm bushings. I can think of a few more things, but too lazy stopping typing now
AZBY is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 07:25 PM
Super Moderator
YourCobalt.com Premium Member


 
Coby7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Magnetic Hill, New-Brunswick
Posts: 11,820
Garage
This is what you should look for when checking lower control arm bushings.



Also ....

Every minute spent angry is a happy minute lost for ever and ever!!!
Drives 2016 Cocoa Buick Encore 1.4L Turbo auto KL4CJDSB2GB652675
Drives 2016 Sunset Orange Trax LT1 1.4L Turbo auto 3GNCJPSB8GL142716

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly
Coby7 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Closed Thread

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome