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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Stuck Rotors

Anyone else have this problem with our cars. The first time I did the brakes I had no problems what so ever. I now am doing them for the second time and everything is so rusted together. Awhile back I had to replace a lug stud on the driver side and couldnt get the rotor off. Ended up having to use a sledge hammer and hub puller to get it off with the assembly. With having the rotor off previously it wasnt too bad to get off today. The passenger side tho is absolutely not budging. I probably knocked a pound of rust off of it lol. I have used almost a full can of PB Blast to try and loosen things up, applied heat with a propane torch, beat it repeatedly with hammers, and no luck. Saw a method online that I was going to try but purchased bolts that were too large in diameter.

The process involves using a long bolt that will fit threw the caliper bracket bolt holes with some washers and nuts. The idea is to put the bolts threw the holes then add a couple large washers. Next you add two nuts to each bolt. One close to the washers and the other just at the end of the bolt. The nut at the end will be used to push against the rotor so you don't want any of the bolt sticking out. You then hold the nut by the washers with an end wrench and begin tightening with a ratchet alternating between the 2 bolts until it pops loose. If necessary after the rotor pops loose, remove the nuts and bolts, put the car in neutral, rotate the rotor 180* and then repeat the process.

Guess I got to wait til tomorrow to run to the hardware store and exchange my parts for smaller diameter parts that will fit correctly. Anyone else have tricks on how to remove stuck on rotors for us folks that like in the north with salt or those in ocean air climates that have to deal with lots of rust

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 10:13 PM
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I went through the same thing, first set of bolts I got were too thin and bent second set was too big. I sprayed as much PB blaster as I could behind it let it sit overnight and in the morning after hammering on it for a solid twenty minutes it fell off.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Do you remember what size bolts you bought? I went with grade #8 yellow zinc 3" long 1/2" diameter but it was just a tad bit too large. Thought I might take the bracket bolt with me tomorrow and get something the same diameter but longer

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 11:21 PM
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The second set that didn't fit was 1/2'' same as yours after that I gave up with the damn bolts and went back to hammering at the hub and rotor. I was replacing both the hub and rotor so wasn't too worried about destroying either of them.

2009 Cobalt LS XFE (F23) Victory Red
YYZ V.3 Springs, Koni shocks/struts, Powell XXX rear swaybar, Brembo brake swap, 5 lug conversion, Ion Redline wheels, SS/SC interior swap including power conversion, K&N intake, Trifecta tune, Ark Performance N-II catback, Ark shorty antenna, SS body kit, Powell F23 rotated mount, LNF rear mount, Powell CABs
Soon to come- EFR 6758 turbo kit and make Retro Headlights.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 06:35 AM
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Boy I'm so glad I live in a dry climate. Remove the retainer rings and my rotors fall right off, every time. I'd hate to have to deal with this shit lol

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 07:06 AM
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It shouldn't happen again, put some anti seize between the hub and wheel.

2009 Cobalt LS XFE (F23) Victory Red
YYZ V.3 Springs, Koni shocks/struts, Powell XXX rear swaybar, Brembo brake swap, 5 lug conversion, Ion Redline wheels, SS/SC interior swap including power conversion, K&N intake, Trifecta tune, Ark Performance N-II catback, Ark shorty antenna, SS body kit, Powell F23 rotated mount, LNF rear mount, Powell CABs
Soon to come- EFR 6758 turbo kit and make Retro Headlights.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 08:52 AM
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When I replaced my lug stud I had the same problem. I got a crow bar, put it behind the rotor and started to twist it, while doing that I had my brother hit the bar with a hammer and it finally popped off. Took a good half hour at least to get it off

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Well the nut and bolt setup did the trick. This morning before leaving for work I tried beating it with the sledge after it soaked in PB blast last night and no difference. After work I swung by the hardware shop before heading home. This time I picked up everything in 7/16. I got home to find out that 2 nuts would not fit in the space give. So i said f it and just used one had the bolt push directly on the rotor. Didn't matter as I got new so no need to worry about damaging it. With about 10 turns there was a massive POP and it was finally free. Balt finally running strong again after the engine swap and no more horrendous brake grinding / squeal.

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Last edited by biniecki; 06-06-2014 at 06:29 PM.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 05:40 PM
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Yay!

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