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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 04:40 AM Thread Starter
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Question 2006 Cobalt LS with F23. Hard to Shift.

Good morning!

Last night I picked up a 2006 Cobalt LS with low miles but in rough shape for $1K. When driving it home I noticed it was very hard and almost impossible to get into 1st and second. Made no difference if engine was on or off, clutch feels good. I assume it's the shift mechanism on the trans or at the shifter or the cables. How do you adjust the shifter in a Cobalt? Is there any lock pins to install and make the adjustments?

Also, I suspect the fluid may be low in the trans (F23) as it is sweating from underneath. (unless it's the rear main... sigh...)

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 08:07 AM
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First off welcome! Now to help with your issue here.

Does it grind while trying to get it into gear or does it kind of feel like a gear lock out (where it just doesn't want to slide into the gear at all). And you said the clutch feels good, but where is the disengage/engagement point on it? Is the disengagement point close to the floor or at the top of the pedal? Also, there is a fill/drain plug on the side of the transmission that will allow you to take the bolt of and feel/see if the fluid is full or not. when you take the bolt out it should leak out of there slightly.

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
Custom 3" DP, 3" Exhaust, GT3076R, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD, Hurst STS, ZZP triple pod, Autometer Cobalt boost/DPIC/WB gauges, Nitto NT05 245/40/18's, H&R Springs, 80:20 Meth Spray
Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 09:38 AM
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I believe that's the auto. The only two holes on mine where to fill and completely drain it when I replaced the fluid (I used Royal Purple max ATF, yes ATF is supposed to go in most modern manual transmissions).

If you pop out the cup holder, simply pull at the part towards the front of the car, you'll be able to see the shifter cables. To access them you'll take off the panel that surrounds the ebrake (simply pull up) and one that surrounds the shifter. Then I put it in fourth disconnect the lines (pull up on the top clip) and adjust accordingly.

2009 Cobalt LS XFE (F23) Victory Red
YYZ V.3 Springs, Koni shocks/struts, Powell XXX rear swaybar, Brembo brake swap, 5 lug conversion, Ion Redline wheels, SS/SC interior swap including power conversion, K&N intake, Trifecta tune, Ark Performance N-II catback, Ark shorty antenna, SS body kit, Powell F23 rotated mount, LNF rear mount, Powell CABs
Soon to come- EFR 6758 turbo kit and make Retro Headlights.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 09:42 AM
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I don't know if it's relevant, but we had an old Sunfire in our school garage with a similar problem. It wouldn't allow you to shift while the car was running, however you'd be able to when the car was off. Opened up the tranny and it was bone dry. Easy fix.

---------- Post added at 12:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:40 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewcarr1993 View Post
I believe that's the auto. The only two holes on mine where to fill and completely drain it when I replaced the fluid
I've got the same F23. Mine has three plugs, drain, check and fill. I replaced my fluid with Dexron VI.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 09:42 AM
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Could also be a bad shift fork in the trans as you said it makes no difference with the engine on or off.

'09 SS/TC - Stolen
Mods - Injen CAI, CIA MAF Relocate CP's, Dejon FMIC,
Custom 3" DP, 3" Exhaust, GT3076R, Pioneer AVH-4100DVD, Hurst STS, ZZP triple pod, Autometer Cobalt boost/DPIC/WB gauges, Nitto NT05 245/40/18's, H&R Springs, 80:20 Meth Spray
Future - KSport Kontrol Pro Coilovers, 10% Tint, FMIC spray
538whp/501wtq @38 psi on meth and 93 oct on stock ish motor


06 EVO IX MR/SE - Sold
Mods - *Updated 10/6/13* AEM TRUboost EBC, 4in custom TBE, SD dual 93/e85 tune, ETS 4in Race Core FMIC, Dual Aeromotive 400lph Fuel Pumps, T4 Tubular Manifold w/ dual WG's, FP Super99HTZ DBB Turbo, GSC 274 mivec cams, ARP headstuds/rod studs, FIC 2150cc Injectors, Aeromotive FPR, Aeromotive Fuel Rail, catch can, Mini Battery Kit, Slim Coolant Fan, Kiggly Racing high pressure valve Springs/Titanium Retainers, Supertech Stainless Steel Valves, Dual VTA Tial 44mm WG's, 4g64 Stroker Manley Pistons, 155mm 2.4 LR Manley Turbo Plus I Beam Rods with ARP 625 Studs, 100mm forged non-billet Manley Crankshaft, Full H/E PNP with Port Matching, Kiggly Racing Girdle, Dual Tial 50mm BOV's, Excedy Triple Disc Carbon HD Clutch, AEM EMS

'95 Ram 2500 Diesel
Mods - 5in TBE, Boost Elbow set to 28psi, Adjusted fuel pump, Open Turbo.

Future Mods- Super Street Clutch (rated @1400ftlbs tq), 67mm turbo, 160lb valve springs, added timing, tubular exhaust manifold, larger injectors, possible 6 spd swap.


Master ASE Certified Gasoline/Diesel Technician since 2004

Speed Junkies Social Group

Yourcobalt Official Facebook Page!

Syndicate of Tuners Official Page! Up and going again as of 1/11/13

Click here to PM me if you have questions or issues!
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 10:08 AM
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Maybe I'm just forgetting the check plug then.

2009 Cobalt LS XFE (F23) Victory Red
YYZ V.3 Springs, Koni shocks/struts, Powell XXX rear swaybar, Brembo brake swap, 5 lug conversion, Ion Redline wheels, SS/SC interior swap including power conversion, K&N intake, Trifecta tune, Ark Performance N-II catback, Ark shorty antenna, SS body kit, Powell F23 rotated mount, LNF rear mount, Powell CABs
Soon to come- EFR 6758 turbo kit and make Retro Headlights.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys! thanks for the info!

I fixed the problem. It was the select cable. I assume it might of stretched or fell out of adjustment. I removed the cup holder and observed the cable as I shifted and tried to access the 1-2 gate. The select cable was maxing out. I put the car in 4th gear and unclipped the select cable adjuster. I then applied a slight force towards the left (1-2 gate) and then clipped the cable adjuster. It goes into all gears perfectly now.

I'm familiar with this trans, just not the shift mechanism in the cobalt. I have a 60 degree F23 in my Fiero. (from a 2002 2.2 Cav)

Thanks again guys! Now to solve all the other little gremlins with this new toy.

Cheers!
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 02:50 PM
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Great job fixing it! Always nice to have a "free" fix

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 11:19 PM
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Yay I feel accomplished that I actually helped.

2009 Cobalt LS XFE (F23) Victory Red
YYZ V.3 Springs, Koni shocks/struts, Powell XXX rear swaybar, Brembo brake swap, 5 lug conversion, Ion Redline wheels, SS/SC interior swap including power conversion, K&N intake, Trifecta tune, Ark Performance N-II catback, Ark shorty antenna, SS body kit, Powell F23 rotated mount, LNF rear mount, Powell CABs
Soon to come- EFR 6758 turbo kit and make Retro Headlights.
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