2009 Won't Shift to Reverse or 5th when Cold Engine Not Running - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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2009 Won't Shift to Reverse or 5th when Cold Engine Not Running

When I get in my 2009 ss in cold weather, (below 10 degrees or so), if the engine is ether running or not running it won't shift into reverse or fifth, every other gear is just fine. It actually seems the shiftier won't go all the way to the right, but I am not shure. Been this way for last 3 winters. When real cold out,below zero, and after driving fast on hwy it won't want to go in 5th until I slow down again and drive awhile.

This is not normal it won't go in at all. The colder outside the worse. If I let it sit running in neutral running for ten minutes all is fine again. Solution at present is to shift it to reverse after parking or back into parking spot.

130 miles no fluid change because GM claims it is lifetime?
When I get in my 2009 ss in cold weather, (below 10 degrees or so), if the engine is ether running or not running it won't shift into reverse or fifth, every other gear is just fine. It actually seems the shiftier won't go all the way to the right, but I am not shure. Been this way for last 3 winters. When real cold out,below zero, and after driving fast on hwy it won't want to go in 5th until I slow down again and drive awhile.

This is not normal it won't go in at all. The colder outside the worse. If I let it sit running in neutral running for ten minutes all is fine again. Solution at present is to shift it to reverse after parking or back into parking spot.

130 miles no fluid change because GM claims it is lifetime?

Any ideas this is annoying?
F35 Trasmition in SS LNF

Any ideas this is annoying?
Anyone Else have this problem?
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 04:24 PM
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Have you tried swapping transmission fluid to synthetic or is it already?

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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 06:33 PM
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Could be the shift cables freezing and shrinking a bit. Last year when we a few really cold days (below 15*F) When I would go out to start the car the shifter would barely move, had to wait about 10 minutes or so. I've heard its from the cables. Also if you want to try changing the fluid, it is pretty easy, and I would not use anything except the OEM fluid.

This below explains a bunch of things about the F35 Transmissions and fluid use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxxsh4d0wxxxx
Well, while I was away, I was still reading around on the forum, and I finally noticed.. Here in the drivetrain section, we don't even have a sticky thread, with given information, for the F35 (SS/SC) transmission fluid, or even for the F35 (SS/TC).

I recently bought the fluid for mine, with not much help from previous threads. I would guess that over 85% of them contained incorrect information. We have people using the wrong fluid, with the wrong additives in the fluid, wrong weight of fluid, wrong amount of fluid, etc.

Also, the How-To that we DO have for the F35 (SS/SC) transmission, was completely incorrect. The OP who made the How-To, used Mobil-1 straight GL in his transmission. :lol:

We need to offer correct information for people on this forum who are in search of learning about this car.

On to the information..

1) The F35 (SS/SC) does take a 75W-90, GL-4, transmission fluid.

2) You DO NOT, I cannot make this any clearer, DO NOT, want friction modifiers! The friction modifiers will not allow the synchronizers in the transmission to work properly. This goes for BOTH the SS/SC and the SS/TC.

3) As for the limited-slip.. Ours are sealed. They are "Quaife ATB" differentials, and the lubricant does not affect them. AT ALL! This is why you DO NOT need limited-slip additives! This goes for BOTH the SS/SC and the SS/TC.

3a) *Side note* - This is why the How-To, (On this forum), is incorrect. The OP used 75W-90, WITH limited-slip additives. He is throwing differential gear fluid, in his transmission. The fluid is too slippery for proper synchronizer operation.

4) Even though the F35 comes with GL-4, you might want to use an aftermarket GL-5, if you feel need be. You can, although, make sure it is the correct specs as mentioned above! MOST GL-5's meet or exceed GL-4 specs.

5) The F35, (SS/SC) transmission, comes with fluid part number 21018899.. While The F35, (SS/TC) transmission, comes with fluid part number 88862472.

6) SS/TC guys, I would ABSOLUTELY NOT run anything other than part number 88862472, this is the most current GM fluid for your transmission.

7) SS/SC guys, feel free to use part number 88862472, in fact, I HIGHLY recommend it. It is a 75W-85 GL-4. It is the new "standard", over the old 21018899.

IF you feel the need to go aftermarket on the fluid, the ONLY fluid I recommend is - Red-Line 75W-90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil, and I ONLY recommend it for the SS/SC guys. You NEED 75W-90 NS, if you plan on using this fluid, because there is regular 75W-90, which has friction modifiers. It does not matter if you have G85 or not. Like I said earlier, our limited-slip is a sealed unit. No fluid you put in there, will see it.

9) DO NOT use Royal Purple, or any of that synchromesh garbage. Either stick with the 2 factory numbers I provided, or the Red-Line fluid. NO IF'S AND'S OR BUT'S!!

10) The transmission fluid should be changed around, in my opinion, 60k. As for the amount, you will need to buy 2 quarts. However, it will only take 1.7 quarts.

11) The code for the SS/SC transmission is F35-MC2. The code for the SS/TC transmission is F35-MU3.

Feel free to ask questions. I believe everything has been clearly answered, though.
Also if you feel like changing the fluid here is the basic steps to that. The

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blu3_V1p3r
Manual Transmission Fluid GM P/N 88862472. The fluid can be found online in multiple places my favorite is Crate Engine Depot, but you can go to dealer's parts department and order it as well. You will need to buy 2 quarts. You will use approximately 1.7 quarts for a drain and fill for the F35 5-speed. The link below is the fluid from CED
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Search.aspx?k=88862472

On the driver side there will be 2 Plugs. The top is the fill plug the lower is the drain plug. The plugs use an allen wrench to open them. Once you find the right size you might have to grind down the short side of the allen wrench to get it to fit between the trans mission and the subframe.

Get the front jacked up and remove the driver side front wheel.

1. Open the top plug first. I say this because if you open the drain plug first then try to open the fill plug and strip it out or can not get it open you will be screwed with a transmission that has no fluid in it.

2. Get a drain pain that can hold atleast 2 quarts.

3. Open the lower plug (drain plug).

4. Close the lower plug.

5. Fill with about 1.7 quarts of fluid. When filled, fluid level should be at the bottom of the fluid check plug hole. (You will know it is full when fluid starts dripping out).

6. Close the top plug (fill plug).

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Last edited by blu3_v1p3r; 01-26-2016 at 06:45 PM.
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