Vehicle Detailing/Cleaning - Tips/Tricks/Ideas - Page 13 - Chevy Cobalt Forum / Cobalt Reviews / Cobalt SS / Cobalt Parts
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post #121 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-29-2011, 06:51 AM
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You guys make me jealous... I so wish I still had time to spend on my car like this. I see some of these pictures of the detail you guys do... I used to do this, I want to again :(

2009 Cobalt SS/TC Sedan
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post #122 of 128 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 02:04 PM
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I wanted to share what I've learned in the past two years about detailing since I have the balt. Turns out just down the street from me (well, alright, it's about a 30 minute drive) is one of the nation's most respected manufacturers/distributors of detailing supplies. I'm talking about Adam's Polishes in Boulder, CO. Now I know that most of you have already found your favorite products to use, and relax, I'm not going to push Adam's products and say they're better, that's for everyone to decide for themselves. But let this picture be a testament to how convinced I am that they have the best stuff:



Whether you use their products or not, at least visit their web site. There’s a WEALTH of knowledge there in the form of numerous how-to videos, that’ll walk you through paint correction, washing, cleaning and detailing:

Instructional Detailing Videos

Enjoy, and happy detailing

Black 2010 SS/TC – G85 | ZFR6758 | Term2 tuned | 479whp, 470wtq | Built internals | Cryo'd 4.45 | CM S4 clutch | Hahn CP | ZZP IC | Forge BPV | Hahn 3” DP and Catback | Hahn CAI | Ported head & intake | LE5 TB | Opel injectors + custom 5th injector | ZZP S3 cams | 82# valve springs | 420lph E85 LPFP | Custom FM oil cooler | PRS YYZ v3 & Koni yellows | PRS XXX bar | PRS rotated mounts, rear bushings & TCABS | PRS PCV | PRS Racing oil pan | PRS brake ducts
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post #123 of 128 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 03:03 PM
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lets see I know there are a lot more posts from the first page but I saw mainly outside cleaning, how about inside?

To start I use armor all cleaning wipes on all the "plastic" not cloth even my steering wheel and shifter. Then after that dries I put on armor all protectant, but not on steering wheel or my shifter, learned it's slippery and hard to drive. For the cloth I vacuum, then I use a stain remover/cloth seat cleaner, follow directions. I wait until it's dry like it says to then vacuum again. vacuum my floors as well. The windows I use windex auto, seems to work fine.

The outside I don't much with like you guys do, I do a lot in the summer though. The winters I barely touch my car because it's all freezing temps mostly and such.




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post #124 of 128 (permalink) Old 05-11-2012, 11:05 AM
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One thing that I dislike about washing my cobalt is how much water will stay in the "moat" going around the rear windshield, and ESPECIALLY the trunk and tail lights. So much water gets stuck underneath my tail lights that no matter how well I dry my car off, as soon as I accelerate, there's going to be water running all down my rear bumper. Very frustrating to spend so much time on your car then as you're walking away from it, you notice two big drip marks.

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post #125 of 128 (permalink) Old 05-27-2012, 07:22 PM
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Garage
hey all,
Im a big fan of Turtle wax products And they have a new platiunm line out which seems to work well. I have pics on my page. I do the same as im sure you all do. Start at the top of the car and work my way down,leaveing the lowest parts for last. Windows i use Rainx glass cleaner safe for tints. I use turtle wax zip wax car wash, and Tires/rim i use a tooth brush to clean it, and i use turtle wax Platinum gloss wheel shine. interior i use turtle wax protectant/ or meguiars wipes, good vaccum and the car is done. Drying i use a soft towel then a microfiber cloth. As far as waxing i use a orbital buffer/polisher along with.....turtle wax hard shell wax! applied witha foam pad.

Last edited by Tyme516; 05-27-2012 at 07:24 PM.
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post #126 of 128 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_X View Post
One thing that I dislike about washing my cobalt is how much water will stay in the "moat" going around the rear windshield, and ESPECIALLY the trunk and tail lights. So much water gets stuck underneath my tail lights that no matter how well I dry my car off, as soon as I accelerate, there's going to be water running all down my rear bumper. Very frustrating to spend so much time on your car then as you're walking away from it, you notice two big drip marks.
I know exactly what you mean and I have found the solution for this annoying problem!



Adam's Blaster Sidekick Dryer by MetroVac

Black 2010 SS/TC – G85 | ZFR6758 | Term2 tuned | 479whp, 470wtq | Built internals | Cryo'd 4.45 | CM S4 clutch | Hahn CP | ZZP IC | Forge BPV | Hahn 3” DP and Catback | Hahn CAI | Ported head & intake | LE5 TB | Opel injectors + custom 5th injector | ZZP S3 cams | 82# valve springs | 420lph E85 LPFP | Custom FM oil cooler | PRS YYZ v3 & Koni yellows | PRS XXX bar | PRS rotated mounts, rear bushings & TCABS | PRS PCV | PRS Racing oil pan | PRS brake ducts
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post #127 of 128 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 06:14 AM
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I'm wanting to find out how to get the small swirls out of my wheels. I saw the post here on the water/vinegar trick, and of course aluminum polish (which I plan on regardless). Wanted to make sure exactly what and how to do it before I tackled this myself.
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post #128 of 128 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orange07SSNA View Post
I'm wanting to find out how to get the small swirls out of my wheels. I saw the post here on the water/vinegar trick, and of course aluminum polish (which I plan on regardless). Wanted to make sure exactly what and how to do it before I tackled this myself.
Be careful on aluminum that's clear coated. Some of those products will strip the clear right off. Nothing beats good old soap, water and a little wax

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