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My dang Cobalt won't start. It is not the battery. The battery works great. The power to the car turns on, but the car itself will not turn on. I took it to a local dealership, and got into a big fight with them about somethings. After about 3 months they finally "looked" at the car, and came up with a bunch of stuff that was wrong with it, but I also don't know if they just did that to get me to go away because they "looked" at it really fast.

So I have replaced the starter, but it does not even try to turn over. I replaced my ignition switch(even though it was just replaced in 2014), and still nothing turns over. I get no strange lights or warnings on the dash.

The dealership said I have a bad battery(it is a 1 year old battery that AutoZone says is good.), they said my underhood fuse block is shorted internally, they say the car will start(but does not disengage), and they say the ECM controls crank circuit(and every time voltage is connect the engine turns over, but does not start).

The reason I took it to the dealership is because the car was stuck in park. It would still start, but I could not get it out of park. When I would try to take the key out, it was stuck too. I got the key out with the little switch under the steering column. By the time I got it back from the dealership, had my battery charged, and figured out about the shifter override switch, the car wouldn't start. I replaced the started with a used one(that was tested and works), and now the key comes out of ignition fine, but the effing car wont start.

HELP!!!!
 

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Similar thing happened to me. No crank no start no warning lights. Battery works great - took it to autozone to check. Power in the rest of the care seemed fine. Car just would not crank or start. Dealership said it was all kinds of things. Bad solenoid, bad ignition switch, bad something or other. I actually still dont know what the problem was but the only thing that helped me was disconnecting the connections to the ECM (they've got that weird buckle system) doing a bit of cleaning and reconnecting them (make sure that buckle is on proper). No clue why this worked but my car was back starting after days of nothing.
 

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Thanks! I will have to give that a try! I have not yet found an answer, and I have got no replies yet...so I am willing to try anything!
 

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My dang Cobalt won't start. It is not the battery. The battery works great. The power to the car turns on, but the car itself will not turn on. I took it to a local dealership, and got into a big fight with them about somethings. After about 3 months they finally "looked" at the car, and came up with a bunch of stuff that was wrong with it, but I also don't know if they just did that to get me to go away because they "looked" at it really fast.

So I have replaced the starter, but it does not even try to turn over. I replaced my ignition switch(even though it was just replaced in 2014), and still nothing turns over. I get no strange lights or warnings on the dash.

The dealership said I have a bad battery(it is a 1 year old battery that AutoZone says is good.), they said my underhood fuse block is shorted internally, they say the car will start(but does not disengage), and they say the ECM controls crank circuit(and every time voltage is connect the engine turns over, but does not start).

The reason I took it to the dealership is because the car was stuck in park. It would still start, but I could not get it out of park. When I would try to take the key out, it was stuck too. I got the key out with the little switch under the steering column. By the time I got it back from the dealership, had my battery charged, and figured out about the shifter override switch, the car wouldn't start. I replaced the started with a used one(that was tested and works), and now the key comes out of ignition fine, but the effing car wont start.

HELP!!!!


Check the cables on the starter, make sure they are all good and tight. Also check the grounds. As stated above it wouldn't be bad to pull ECU connectors and check for corrosion. check fuses and relays, if it turns out that all that is good, the dealer might be right, the fuse block could have shorted. If all the components tested good like you said then it has to be electrical somewhere.
 

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Check the cables on the starter, make sure they are all good and tight. Also check the grounds. As stated above it wouldn't be bad to pull ECU connectors and check for corrosion. check fuses and relays, if it turns out that all that is good, the dealer might be right, the fuse block could have shorted. If all the components tested good like you said then it has to be electrical somewhere.
I have checked, and rechecked the wires on the starter. I even had my brother-in-law(who is more mechanically inclined than me) check them again to make sure. I pulled a ton of fuses in the fuse box, and most looked good. I tested a few relays and no problem. I thought I knew where the ECU connectors are, but I may be wrong. I will look in my book tomorrow. They are the two metal looking plates in front of the fuse box? There is a smaller one with one plug going to it, and there is a larger one with two plugs. Sound right, or am I off?

So let's say I have to replace the fuse box. How do you know there is a short in it? If I replace it, it isn't something that needs to programmed to my computer is it? I can run to the local junk yard and get one for cheap if not.
 
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